2 electrical problems last night (Fuel Pump and Headlights)
Ok, the first and vastly more important problem is my fuel pump, which simply cut out twice last night for no apparant reason at idle. It seemed as though a ground was loose or something. The first time I was at a stop sign, and it just died. I attempted to restart several times and it would almost start and an then immediately die. The reason i think fuel pump is because there was no hum, and I still had radio/lights and crank. The 2nd time it died at idle again, but before I even realized it, the pump re-engaged, (I heard the famous hum), and it fired right back up when I started it.Weird eh? Is this a bad fuel pump or inertia switch, or is it simply a bad ground?
The next prob actually involved my brights. I did not have the foglights on at any point, but for some reason my headlights went out completely at one point after driving with my brights on for about 5-10 minutes. Not the normal 20 sec. like with the fog lights. I had to turn them off and wait until I could turn on the low beams for the rest of the drive and they were fine. Has anyone ever heard of this? Can I remedy this the same type of way as with the fogs?
__________________
Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
The lights thing still sounds like the switch.
The fuel pump thing could be the relay. Try scanning the codes, and see if it throws a 95 or 96. You've already changed the pump out haven't you?
__________________
1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
So how do i fix the lights? You're sating its just in the actual switch? I was thinking i may just replace the relays and whatnot to be sure.
As for the fuel pump... No, I havnt replaced it. Ill scan the codes when I get back home, cause I forgot my code scanner.
On a side note though, I did score all the black interior from a 1990 4 banger Mustang at my local Junyard (which is quite possibly the coolest junyard/people around), except the door panels which were already gone, the console pieces cause they were all busted up, and the sunvisors, cause they were gone. It only cost me $140!!!!!! I figure when I sell the carpet on eBay Ill get almost that or more for the main carpet, which is in real good shape, and the hatch carpet, which is in perfect shape basically. I couldnt believe it when I saw it. Money in the bank...
__________________
Cardinal Red '88 GT 5 speed, Cobra Upper/Lower, Dynomax complete Super-Turbo cat-back system, Turbo Coupe Rear 10" discs, 3:73 gears, SN95 Master Cylinder, Summit Racing adjustable proportioning valve, Spec Stage II kevlar clutch, steeda adjustable cable/quadrant, 73mm front calipers, P.A. Performance 130 amp alternator, 99 Contour Electric Dual Fans, Battery relocated, rebuilt 91 T-5, Mass Air conversion
I also had a similar problem with my headlights in my '91 GT. I had to replace the entire headlight/foglight switch. Also, I am pretty sure that the relay is in the switch itself (i think).
Also, what kind of code scanner do you have and where did you get it? Do you have a link? Thanks.
something like this happened to me a few months ago, at first i thought it was the ignition switch like ghostdog but it turned out to be the ignition control module.
First things first, take the module to get tested and if it checks out I'd change that ignition switch.
To get to it , just remove the lower plastic cover under the dash, lower the two steering column nuts that are towards the steering wheel until they are almost on the last threads.
After that you will have enough to get to the tamperppoof torx screws. Make sure when you put the new one on that the bar lines up in the switch and bolt it back on.