Could this be in the wires or is the actuator bad? It will lock the door but it will not unlock the door. The driverside works fine. What is the easiest way to check things out?
__________________
89 LX WHITE
E-CAM GT40P HEADS
COBRA INTAKE 65MM TB
75MM MASS-AIR MAC FULL LENGTHS AND CAT-BACK
373 GEARS ROH ZS WHEELS
COBRA WING
it could be in the switch. does just your side do it? or can you not unlock from the passenger side as well? if its not the switch i would be in the locking mechanism..
i see that now.. wow, i gotta stop skimming over posts...
sorry.
It sounds like it might just be in the switch. If the drivers side will unlock it, then it is capable of unlocking. pull the panel that the switch plate is on, look at the wires that connect to the door lock. It should be fairly obvious as to which wires, but either disconnect the wires and touch them or use a jumper wire across them if they are on a harness that wont let them touch... if you can get it to jump and unlock, then its the switch...
would be the same effect as jumping the wires...
if you jump them behind the switch then its a definite either way. like i said, i dont know if they are on a harness or if they plug in.. if its a harness the switch probably wont snap in place.
I wouldn't suggest just jumping the wires. If your car is a 5 wire door lock switch system (99.999999 percent of older fords are), jumping the wires without disconnecting the switch side will result in a blown door lock fuse. I would explain the theory behind 5 wire door locks, but that would take WAY too long. I'm a car audio/security specialst. Just trust me
__________________
89 GT Convertible 306, Port Polished GT40 Aluminum Heads,Self polished GT40 Upper and lower Intake, 30 lbs injectors, carter intank fuel pump, bosch piggyback inline fuel pump, Intercooled Procharger, Southside lower rear control arms, suspension technik lowering springs, tokico rear shocks, 4:11 gears, aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors
Twister...the n/c connection could be good, and the n/o connector could be bad. So if you connect the postive to the common connector (which theoretically should trip the power door) then it's a straight short to ground.
Mind you, he hasn't noted if its in the switch or maybe the remote keyless entry. If it were the keyless entry not opening the passenger door, then whoever put the alarm in the car, didn't pick the right wires for the 5 wire system.
__________________
89 GT Convertible 306, Port Polished GT40 Aluminum Heads,Self polished GT40 Upper and lower Intake, 30 lbs injectors, carter intank fuel pump, bosch piggyback inline fuel pump, Intercooled Procharger, Southside lower rear control arms, suspension technik lowering springs, tokico rear shocks, 4:11 gears, aluminum driveshaft, weld in subframe connectors
Door Lock Not Unlocking On Pass. Side 
