OK i have an 89 5.0 this F***ing electrical problem has been kicking my ass for about a year and a half i hit a wall, i checked all the relays and fuses there all good, fusable links good, new starter relay, new ignition, and still no power. I have power to every thing. But i cant turn my motor over with the key, the only way i can turn it over is with a screw driver from the s terminal to the pos terminal on my starter relay, even with the key in the on position when i try it, no spark from coil and my injectors arent pulsing. if there is anyone that can help me with this problem please do so, im tired of seeing my baby parked when i can be tearing up camaros and vetts.
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DSS 306 Pro Bullit kit, lightend and ballanced rotating assembly, 48cc cumbustion chamber (11.50 compression), 1.95 intake valve 1.6 exhaust, .528 lift .232 duration @.050", ported and pollished heads, 3 angle competition valve job, comp cams solid roller lifters, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, 3.55 gears, GT-40 intake, Hurst shifter, Crane Cams 1.6 ajustable roller rockers, Comp high rev springs, 1 5/8 shorty equal lenght headders, 2 1/2 off road H-pipe, Two chamber flowmasters with dumps, Pete Jackson Timing Gears, Edelbrock Victor water pump, Fluiddyne harmonic ballancer, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air, 36lbs injectors, Under drives, Fully Studded motor( heads, valve covers, headders, intake, bellhousing, oil pan,and main caps all ARP)
i havent bypassed my clutch safty switch wet but ill try that, and i just tested my relay from my comp the one on the main wiring harness and i powerd it up and did a voltage test and there was nothing does that send the power to the s terminal in the starter relay, and i also fould a burnt up fusable link
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DSS 306 Pro Bullit kit, lightend and ballanced rotating assembly, 48cc cumbustion chamber (11.50 compression), 1.95 intake valve 1.6 exhaust, .528 lift .232 duration @.050", ported and pollished heads, 3 angle competition valve job, comp cams solid roller lifters, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, 3.55 gears, GT-40 intake, Hurst shifter, Crane Cams 1.6 ajustable roller rockers, Comp high rev springs, 1 5/8 shorty equal lenght headders, 2 1/2 off road H-pipe, Two chamber flowmasters with dumps, Pete Jackson Timing Gears, Edelbrock Victor water pump, Fluiddyne harmonic ballancer, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air, 36lbs injectors, Under drives, Fully Studded motor( heads, valve covers, headders, intake, bellhousing, oil pan,and main caps all ARP)
the no crank at the key is one thing,the no fire at the plugs is another.you may have a problem at the ignition switch(electrical part) which would explain both problems.
replaced the link and nothing, i have a new ignition switch in there allready, i think that i just might rip out the hole wiring harness and replace it with a painless wiring or get one of another 89 do you guys know of any one that is selling a complete harness, im at a loss, i also found a burnt up ground wire but i think that it goes to my headlihts and ****, i dont know ill try to get pics and put them on here so you guys can see my problem maby that will help???
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DSS 306 Pro Bullit kit, lightend and ballanced rotating assembly, 48cc cumbustion chamber (11.50 compression), 1.95 intake valve 1.6 exhaust, .528 lift .232 duration @.050", ported and pollished heads, 3 angle competition valve job, comp cams solid roller lifters, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, 3.55 gears, GT-40 intake, Hurst shifter, Crane Cams 1.6 ajustable roller rockers, Comp high rev springs, 1 5/8 shorty equal lenght headders, 2 1/2 off road H-pipe, Two chamber flowmasters with dumps, Pete Jackson Timing Gears, Edelbrock Victor water pump, Fluiddyne harmonic ballancer, 70mm throttle body, 75mm mass air, 36lbs injectors, Under drives, Fully Studded motor( heads, valve covers, headders, intake, bellhousing, oil pan,and main caps all ARP)
Since you have a lot of fried stuff, your ECU may be fried as well. That would explain the lack of injector pulse, though I don't know if it could account for the no-crank situation or not.
Too bad yours is a MAF setup. If it were SD an ECU would be a lot cheaper.
Another possibility for a no-pulse, no-spark situation would be a bad hall effect sensor in the distributor. A bad TFI module might cause that too.
As for the no-crank, yes, try bypassing the clutch safety switch.
Ignition problems 
