My distributor is off one tooth, I am going to adjust, wish me luck!
I wanted to check my timing because my car has a hestitation, it just feels like it wants to run, but wont. My timing is set a 0 degrees. Stock settings are at 10 degrees atdc. No wonder, I am retarded 10 degrees!
I cant advance my timing because the ignition control module is right up against the themostat housing. Here in lies the problem, my distributor is off by one tooth! The only thing to do is pull it and re-adjust. Wish me luck, I am going to start here in just a while, I have to let the car cool down.
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1990 GT Convertable
Sub-frame, lowering springs, flowmaster exhaust, K&N intake, K/H Brake proportioning valve, it has mild cam, but the previous didnt know which one, kill switch, and headers. All done before I got the car. I have installed new driving lights and white face guages. Sony Explode CDX-M630 CD deck, and rewired all six speakers.
All is better, the vert ruuuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnnssssssss now! What a big improvement. Timing is now set a 14 degrees.
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1990 GT Convertable
Sub-frame, lowering springs, flowmaster exhaust, K&N intake, K/H Brake proportioning valve, it has mild cam, but the previous didnt know which one, kill switch, and headers. All done before I got the car. I have installed new driving lights and white face guages. Sony Explode CDX-M630 CD deck, and rewired all six speakers.
That is EXACTLY what "one tooth off" relates to - the position of the TFI module when the stock 10° advance is set.
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Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ
How could you tell that the dist gear was off a tooth? i believe this is my problem for my car. I just did a efi conversion. I have the car started now but it sounds weird... the idle kinda sounds like that of a motorcycle...
If it's a tooth off, it was put into the engine one tooth off.
The engine can run fine if it's one tooth off, provided it can at least be set to 10 degrees base timing. All you do is turn the distributor.
If the TFI module is up against the thermostat housing and you can just barely get 10 degrees without having room to turn it further to advance the timing, then it's one tooth off. There's no way the distributor gear can jump around and get "one tooth off". The distributor is bolted down, and the gears are meshed so it would take the distributor being raised and repositioned... won't happen if it's bolted down.
If it is one tooth off, you just raise the distributor slowly until the gears disengage, then turn it AND the rotor button until you feel it skip that tooth, then reinstall. Start the engine and then check the timing, adjusting as you need.
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I think the mechanics that rebuilt my engine are retards. When I got my car back, I would nail it and it would really breakup/feel like alot of hesitation at 4,000 rpms. so I told them to set the timming to 14 degrees, they set it at 12 and it was like night and day difference, now under full throttle theres only a "little" break up, kinda feels like a miss but the car still pulls. I asked them to bump it up more because I think that would take away the problem, and he said it just breaks up more but I think they are full of crap because the tfi is right up against the thermostate housing and its more work that they wouldnt get paid for to bump the timming up a little more. He reccommend me to a shop that specials in mustangs. I am still pissed about it to this day, If you ease the gas and wind it out it doesnt break up, only under full throttle.
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"Nitrous Oxide is like a hot chick with an STD. You want to hit it but you are affraid of the consequences."
91 GT convert. GT40P's, Off Road H-PIPE, Flowmasters, 4.10s, posi rear, welded subframes, 70mm TB, TFS Stage 1 cam, 155lph holley pump, Cobra intake mani, ford racing headers, Allum. Radiator, No smog, Freashly rebuilt......