Hey guys, as you can see from my sig, I have almost everything you could imagine for a 5.0 N/A. But, even with the custom chip I have, the idle sucks a monkeys @$$. I have a 76mm C&L, with the big K&N on the end, so there is no bend before the MAF. The tube is calibrated with a "brown" sample tube for 30# injectors. I had some problems before when after driving a bit, not even all that hard, when i would come to a stop and idle, the car would rev to about 1000-1300 RPM, then drop to like 600, then somtimes even like 400 and almost stall. Actually, one day at school it did stall, twice, so I left and bought a new IACV and put that on, which solved the problem for about a minute. Here I am months later and every now and then it still does that crappy idle thing, and the only way to get around it is to either rev a few times and hope for the best, hold the RPMs at like 1200, or turn on the A/C (or Heat).
I have read a bunch of threads saying the Pro-M MAF is a better meter, but it all depends on your application ...
I have also read that it could be a vacuum leak, or the EGR, or the TPS.
I have adjusted the TPS a bunch of times so that at idle (~800 RPM) the voltage read .98 volts.
What should I do / check on? Should i just call the guys who built the motor and get them to send me the Pro-M MAF they originally would send (but i told them no because I had the C&L already)?
Should I replace the EGR valve? (I do have BBK Headers now, instead of the MAC's, and an EGR Tube Adapter so it all lines up correctly, but I dont think that it is leaking or anything)
Is there anyone close to Silver Spring, MD that would know what they were talkin about if they saw / drove my car? I am lookin for anything here!
HELP MEEEE!!! (...again...)
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
Im not sure I can help you but what rpm's are you trying to get it to idle at? I also have the e-cam and it gave me some troubles, (but I have a auto.) I have a custom chip which helped alot and a pro-m optimizer.
But on top of all that the car just likes to idle a little high. My idle when parked is at about 1000rpm's. When in drive it drops to about 800-900rpms. So we quit fighting it, we set the idle to the 1000rpms that the car liked and all issues ended.
I think if you have the option to use the Pro-M you should. Its widely known that its a quality piece and probably more accurate than a C&L.
yeah i might just have to raise my idle ... i will try that before anything else. i have also noticed when the RPMs drop, the battery meter dives too. now to the 8, but it drops, and whne the motor revs itself back up to like 1200 RPMs, the meter levels off again
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
Part stores have them for like $20. You just unplug the vacuum going to your cruise control in the drivers fender and plug that into the vacuum tree. It takes seconds to get a reading.
k ive called around and heard a few things ... and basically, i need someone with an OBD1 Reader to help me out!
Ive heard it could be bad grounds, the fan blowing onto the big K&N I have and turbulance messing with the Mass Air Meter, the TPS being off, low fuel pressure (hence needing an adjustable FPR and a gauge), coolant temp sensor bad, bad O2 Sensors ...
Im so confused ...
anyone in MD wanna come take a look?!?!?!?!
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
YoshiBluedevil- relax my friend thats why GhostDog 5.0 stated to hook up a vacum guage, This vacum guage is helpful tool to at least point out where you might be having a problem. Calling here and there is going to mix you up with tons of information and thinking the engine performance is srew up.
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1980 solid lifter . 306 steel crankshaft, stock rods. DSS forged pistons,custom cam 565int/585exh by CROWER 10:1 compression, ARP bolted down with stage 3 TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads, ported polished a 3 angle valve job 2.02/1.60 - CROWER valve springs. 1.6 Ford Motorsport rockers. Induction - Trick Flow R series 75mm throtle 75 Pro-M Air mass meter calibrated to 30lbs injectors.
362HP 363FT LB N/A
apparently the 94-95 mustang computers are some sh*t ... the guys who built my motor were askin me a bunch of questions, then were like "what year do you have again?" and when i said 94, they were like "THATS why ..." Apparently the 94/95 computers dont like aftermarket cams, even a small e-cam. He said to possibly consider going to a Steeda #19 which is only like .470 lift, but with 1.7 rockers, it would be at about .500 lift. The #19 Steeda cam apparently is more sensitive to the crappy computers, and "creates the higher amount of vacuum at idle required by the computer" or something like that. I will look into getting a gauge and checking the idle, but im guessing that the cam is why the vac would be off.
now, as far as the guage, should i get a gauge to put into a pod on the dash, or just one to plug in and read? i would think checkin on it all the time could be a good thing ...
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
Yes and no, it can be made to work but it's a little pricey and involved to do the conversion. Do a search on eec swap or something like that because there's a few threads on it.
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1995 GT 5.0
CAI, American Thunder Cat-back, Mac O/R H-pipe, 180* thermostat, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, Steeda rear swaybar, Urethane bushings, MSD coil, King Cobra clutch & flywheel, GT40 Intake Manifold, ~1800 watt sound system
gauge into a pod on the dash is not necessary but its nice to have. Just plug one into a intake port which works well for me. Should have a steady readings beween 15-21hg. Some cams may have a lower vacum reading depending on cam grind and longer duration,but it should still be steady. What you dont want to see is fluctutation on the guage.
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1980 solid lifter . 306 steel crankshaft, stock rods. DSS forged pistons,custom cam 565int/585exh by CROWER 10:1 compression, ARP bolted down with stage 3 TrickFlow Twisted Wedge Heads, ported polished a 3 angle valve job 2.02/1.60 - CROWER valve springs. 1.6 Ford Motorsport rockers. Induction - Trick Flow R series 75mm throtle 75 Pro-M Air mass meter calibrated to 30lbs injectors.
362HP 363FT LB N/A
Crappy 1994 GT 5.0 Idle 
