Alright, I'm sure you're all going, here goes another noob with an idle problem. But I have never seen anything like this happen on any car. Ok, idling in neutral, the car is perfectly fine. Depress clutch, no problems there, with the clutch fully depressed, and I've checked to make sure it's fully disengaged, put the car into gear, any gear at that, 1-5 or reverse, and the engine loses about 100-200RPM and sometimes just dies completely. I can't figure this out for the life of me. It seems electronic, but I don't know how so, its a 5-speed manual. The only electronics in it is the switch for the reverse lights! It seems more likely to die when the engine is cold. Thanks for any input you can provide.
I hate to do this, but I need to bump this topic. I NEED to get this fixed, it's almost impossible to get the car going from a stop. If anyone has ANY input whatsoever please send it my way. Thanks.
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| 1988 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 | 61k | 5-speed | A9L w/ Mass Air | Centerforce clutch & flywheel | BBK shorty headers and H-pipe| MAC mufflers |
I think '88s have a neutral safety switch. It actually reports to the computer. There is a clutch pedal switch(s) one part of it controls the starter circuit,(allows crank with pedal depressed) while the other one ties in to the neutral safety switch circuit. I guess there could be a problem with it.
I'd see about checking the fuel pressure.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
It may be the fuel pressure acting up....but i was also thinking maybe the pilot bearing is hanging up in the imput shaft...? it happened to a buddy of mine, his pilot bearing went bad and it was acting like a screwy clutch. Give it a try....
Actually, I figured it out. It wasn't the clutch switch, but its the wiring for the starter interlock. There's a short or something somewhere. I rigged up a switch so that I can open and close the circuit manually w/o using the clutch. So I flip the switch to ON, start the car, flip the switch to OFF and its all good. N-rigged? Yes. Do I care? No.
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| 1988 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 | 61k | 5-speed | A9L w/ Mass Air | Centerforce clutch & flywheel | BBK shorty headers and H-pipe| MAC mufflers |
VERY strange engine problem... 
