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Unread 08-19-2013   #1 (permalink)
sjcantrell is offline Rookie


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Default GT40 Heads, tell me what to do!

I was going to do the TFS set-up but have decided to another direction.

I bought some GT40 heads, not GT40P. My plan of attack is this.
I have stock 5.0 and going to replace my E7 heads, with this GT40 I bought for 150.00. I am going to take these dudes to a machine shop that is recommended here in the area and have them go through them and check them out.

With stock bottom end, and possible TFS stage 1 cam what do I need to do for these heads as far as VALVE springs. Would a trick flow spring upgrade kit be suggested? Head about these comp cam bee hives, I know you guys will laugh but I am wanting to do a COBRA intake as my car is a 93, and it is a Cobra look alike. If nothing is wrong with my heads do I need to worry about 3 valve angle, having it decked .020 to bump of compression, and such or just stick with letting the machine shop freshen them up, check for cracks, make sure nothing is obviously wrong messed up.

Am I making a mistake doing a Cobra intake? I plan on doing 24lb injectors, 70mm TB, and 70MM Maf. My goal is to have a throaty little 5.0 with nice torque. I am not trying to hang with a lot of you, my money situation and the military want allow that money wise.

Long story short, tell me what I need to do to these heads and what intake and cam you guys would run to be up around 280 HP and if more than bring it on!
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Unread 08-19-2013   #2 (permalink)
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Tell the machine shop what your doing and they will know what you need.

The cobra intake and explorer intake are almost identical- both good for what your doing.

With te 24# injectors you may need a bigger then stock fuel pump. Walbro 255 is usually recomended.
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Unread 08-19-2013   #3 (permalink)
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I used the 1.7 rockers and performer intake with those heads and it runs a lot better than non ported cobra intake with 1.6 rockers. I had an issue with the comp springs on the exhaust valves. I had to order different spring keepers because the rocker was rubbing the top of spring.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #4 (permalink)
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Get those heads milled and ported for a couple hundred $$$ fo sho. Im at 280rwhp with a similar set up. E-cam Heads milled .030, Cobra intake ported matched.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #5 (permalink)
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I had Tmoss port my polished Cobra intake and put down 305 rwhp and 345 rwtq.
Wanted my intake for looks.

Definitely spend the money and have him port the lower, not just one of the gasket matching.
Changing the top end and support mods is not cheap even if you get a couple parts lower priced. Gaskets, oil, coolant, filter, sealer, bolts, all that crap costs the same even if you got the heads for free. For the time and energy to swap heads spend a few hundred to get everything out of it. Better springs, mill the heads, get the intake ported, etc.

You'll be happier in the long run. Honestly, I would skip GT40 anything and buy used set of aluminum heads. Be patient and you'll find some heads that are bolt on so the money you spend on mill and spring work instead goes to better heads. I wasted time and money on GT40x heads and the swapped again so speaking from experience.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #6 (permalink)
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Like Stangdawg said start writing down what you have to buy and how much you are spending.

One the heads you $150 into them already, Figure at least another $150 on valve springs plus a clean up job at the machine shop $$$$$$
Maybe valve seals $$$$$$$$
Milling the heads $$$$$$$$$

After all is said and done you will be lucky to have $450 tied into them and for another couple hundred you could buy a used set of aluminum heads. It all comes down to budget and your goal for this vehicle.

Read this site.....

Five.Oh Info : The Ultimate Ford GT40 and GT40P Cylinder Head FAQ
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Unread 08-20-2013   #7 (permalink)
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I agree with smurf. There was a member on the corral selling a pair of TFS TW170's with upgraded valve springs fresh from the machine shop for 750$ shipped.. thats a killer deal and about what i paid for mine. And stangdog is right about those X heads.. i actually bought his heads that he sold to another member. They just aren't worth it for the money.. i would go check the classifieds though on the corral. Someone has a nice set of holley aluminum heads they are trying to sell. And if you go aluminum thats 60lb of head coming off the motor. And weight saving = faster times. I think its something like every 100lbs taken off is 10hp and a tenth in the quarter and 1 mph.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #8 (permalink)
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What they said ^^^^ is the way to go if it's in the budget. If you only have a few hundred and you're trying to stretch $300 to 400-$500 then you'll have lots of fun on that gt40 set up.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #9 (permalink)
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explorer intake or cobra intake work perfect

if theyre cobra heads they have crane springs and are fine..if theyre explorer heads they have junk springs..run tfs valve spring kit

you dont need 24 pound injectors...the stock 19 pounders are more than sufficient to handle that power

smallblock ford heads rarely go bad in my experience...dump some solvent in, and if it doesnt leak past the valves just bolt them on and go..ive done this swap a bunch of times and ive never done headwork yet..never any issues

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Unread 08-22-2013   #10 (permalink)
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I have a dyno sheet, that if memory serves me correctly the Exploder intake beat the GT 40 by 11 horsepower. I actually have one I was going to use until I partnered with a friend at Roush/Fenway Racing. Now my entire top end is strictly Roush.
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Unread 08-22-2013   #11 (permalink)
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The Exploder, GT40 and the Cobra all flow pretty much the same.

The cast unit have the advantage of being able to be ported due to more meat. The tubular unit is pretty much the way it comes.

Now in looks the tubular is just plain sexy.
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1989 Sonic Blue Mustang LX Coupe, 349 ci,
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