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5.0 Mustangs Tech Forum

5.0L Talk | 5.0L Tech | 94-95 Tech | 1979-1993   1994   1995   Upload Pictures | Timeslips | Power Adders | Mustang Tech 


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Unread 08-19-2013   #1 (permalink)
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Default Best way to relocate battery?

I need to relocate my battery. I have jury-rigged the original battery tray beyond recognition and it can no longer hold the battery. Who has relocated their battery in a hatch, and what kits/methods have you found work best? My car gets raced often and the battery must be secured properly. Thanks.
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Unread 08-19-2013   #2 (permalink)
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The UPR kit works well. 1979-2013 Ford Mustang NHRA Legal Aluminum Battery Box Kit - UPR Products

Ask Shared about the discount.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #3 (permalink)
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Default

I used a kit from summit. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/ it was a little work. Pulled interior to route cables, had to crimp/solder those huge connectors on the ends. I can't remember but I may have had to drop the tank to drill the holes in the trunk and access the bolts on the underside. Don't forget if you want to go to the track you need an external kill switch.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #4 (permalink)
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And this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830051/overview/
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Unread 08-21-2013   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasMustang View Post
The UPR kit works well. 1979-2013 Ford Mustang NHRA Legal Aluminum Battery Box Kit - UPR Products

Ask Shared about the discount.
Hey, that's what I was gonna say!
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Unread 08-21-2013   #6 (permalink)
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Can't go wrong with UPR!!! Quality stuff, great prices!!!


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Unread 08-21-2013   #7 (permalink)
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You can save yourself some possible future electrical issues/problems by running a black ground (negative) wire up to the engine bay with the red positive wire and connect it to the engine block and anything else (ground wires) originally connected to battery negative.Computer equipped cars sometimes do not react well using the body to reference negative ground to the ecm and sensors rather than direct wiring.I sometimes wonder why the battery kits offered by suppliers dont offer an optional(extra cost) full length negative cable to match the positive cable.Using the body to flow current back to battery negative is not the best of ideas.
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Unread 08-24-2013   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyman48 View Post
You can save yourself some possible future electrical issues/problems by running a black ground (negative) wire up to the engine bay with the red positive wire and connect it to the engine block and anything else (ground wires) originally connected to battery negative.Computer equipped cars sometimes do not react well using the body to reference negative ground to the ecm and sensors rather than direct wiring.I sometimes wonder why the battery kits offered by suppliers dont offer an optional(extra cost) full length negative cable to match the positive cable.Using the body to flow current back to battery negative is not the best of ideas.
I've trunk mounted the battery both ways. It works both ways, but I do prefer to run a ground from the battery to the engine.
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Unread 08-25-2013   #9 (permalink)
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Vehicles with frame rails seem to be able to handle current flow much better than unibody cars as long as connections are good.With computer controls requiring (0-5 volt) low voltage signals along with ground reference signals to computer can fluctuate trying to flow through all the spot welds on body back to battery negative.Never was a problem before computers but todays vehicles are a different story.
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