The car runs excellent until I sit in traffic and then it gets a mind of its own. If I sit in traffic for roughly 2-3 minutes and then go the car will take off and about 3 grand in 1st it sputters and boggs down and then revs up, it will do this all the wya through 3rd.
If I sit in traffic for longer than that the cars just dies. The ceck engine light comes on and ot shuts off. Start it up and it dies, no matter how many times I have tried. But the check engine light will go off once I start going again. I had the alternator and battery tested, looked fro burned spark plug wires, checked for loos wire connections and even bad grounds. Cant find crap. Now I think it is the sprk plugs. I pulled codes and came up with code 34
which is the EGR Valve Position sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR sensor:signal voltage out of self test specs, or signal voltage above closed limit during normal engine operation, or signal indicates insufficient EGR flow.
I have removed all the emissions stuff. Could this be causing the EGR to act up? Anyone had this problem? I just need some help figuring this one out.
Thanks Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
1=Have you changed the fuel filter ?
2=Clean the maf.
3=relpace the spark plugs (copper Motorcrafts)
4=Clean EGR
5=Check battery ground to block
6=Clean injectors.
EGR or you have a Injector leaking down which floods the engine at low rpms. If you hold the gas to the floor which will shut down the injectors you should be able to get it started.
I fixed it last night. I yanked off the EGR and pulled a vacuum on it and it stuck so that explains why it was killing my motor at idle and why it was bogging the motor down. I had a spare on the shelf so I swapped it out and it seems to run better. I did not have any problems coming into work, but i still have to go home and thats when I usually hit traffic so we shall see if it is truly fixed. i also replaced the spark plugs as well. I appreciate the response and help. If it isnt fixed guess i will be back on here looking for more suggestions.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
Well it lasted for about a week. Now the EGR is acting up again I think. I have no emissions equipment on the car. I removed the tube that runs from the heads and then runs along the pass. side of the block and goes to the carbon canister and one other place( not 100% sure where.) I blocked off the holes and was wondering if that was causing it to go bad. Any advice as to what to do to fix this permanetly? Is there anyway I can delete the EGR or would it make the car run weird all the time? Any help or tips are welcome.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
Bought a new EGR valve for a whopping $110 today I cleaned out the throttle body and the EGR spacer( which had some carbon build up). I pulled the codes and got a 32 which means the EGR valve is not seated. I have not run the car yet since I put the new EGR on. I know that that one is 100% seated, so this code must be from the last EGR not being on properly.
I was wondering if the plastic part of the EGR, where the wiring harness plugs up, could go bad? If so could this cause my problem?
By the way I tried to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery and using the code scanner but 32 still pops up.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
You posted that you don't have any emission equipment on the car. What have you removed? Smog pump and related plumbing? TAB? TAD? If you are still running the EGR then you have emission equipment left on the car. A 32 code is: "EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts". Could perhaps mean you have a bad EGR valve position sensor (the light gray electronics on the EGR).
You can remove the EGR by 'tricking' the computer into believing the EGR is always closed. Here's a link to a product: http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=61
Best way to check for a burned/arcing wire, is to find the darkest spot possible, and open the hood and watch the motor idle. If there are any short arcs, you'll definitely see them.
Do you have the EGR vacuum routed through the EVR solenoid? You don't want it coming straight from the engine, except in a dire smogtest sniffer emergancy.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
I removed the smog pump and all the plumping as well. I am not sure what the TAB and TAD are. I bought a new EGR and I just drove it and still acting the same. So now I think it is the EVP. Not sure aboutm how the vaccuum is routed but I can check.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
The TAB and TAD are the two similar looking computer controlled vacuum switches mounted on the rear of your pass side strut tower. The similar but larger one is the EVR, it regulates vacuum to the EGR valve. TAB and TAD are for the smog pump system.
How is your vacuum run? If it still has a factory harness, chances are that it's leaking due to brittle and broken vac lines.
The 34 is pretty common, but doesn't mean that the EVP is bad. Not having any EGR valve movement will cause a 33, but I think they throw a 34 when there is not enough movement of the valve itself, like if it's not quite getting enough vacuum - due to a cracked line, or clogged EVR.
Also, is your canister purge system hooked up?
Could be alot of things, but it does sound like an arc.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
The only reason I want to rule out arc is because I Had the problem about a week ago and swapped the EGR with an extra I had in the shop. It ran fine for a little over a week, no signs of bad EGR or connections at all. The first time I had a code 34 and when I swapped the EGR it went away. Now I am getting code 32 with the new EGR. I bought another EVP today and I am going to swap it out, but i am definetely going to check the harness and plug for wear or signs that it could be arcing. The problem is That I have to get this fixed by tomorrow night because I am driving the car out of town for the memorial day weekend.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
Well it is NOT arcing. I turned off all the lights in my garage and saw no signs of faulty wiring. I did replace the EVP and drove the car. the CHECK ENGINE light stays on and the car has a jumpy idle when stopped. The jumpy idle only lasts for about 3 seconds and then it smoothes out and idles nicely. The car does not sputter or bog down anymore. I even sat at a stop sign for almost 5 minutes ( simulating the traffic I tend to get stuck in) and it still ran smoothly afterwards. I ordered a new EVR and I am going to pick it up tomorrow.
When I ordered it he asked me if it was 2 or 3 port, yellow, black, grey etc colored cap. Mine is a two port w/ a grey top. The motor is out of an 89 but in an 87. Could I possibly have the wrong EVR for the mtotr????
The vaccuum line runs directly to the EVR. I still have the TAB and TAD hooked up. However I do not have the smog pump, relayted plumping, or the canister on the car. They have been off for almost a year and I have never had any problems with the car as a result of removing those.
I am hoping the new EVR is the final piece to this puzzle.
Drew
__________________
If I take cars and hot girls with money and add them to my life, I have found the key to happiness!
87 GT (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) new paint job, 306 w/ TFS stage 1 cam, TFS intake , still cant decide on heads.
Car running weird. Need some AFM help 
I cleaned out the throttle body and the EGR spacer( which had some carbon build up). I pulled the codes and got a 32 which means the EGR valve is not seated. I have not run the car yet since I put the new EGR on. I know that that one is 100% seated, so this code must be from the last EGR not being on properly. 
