[jaytee]

Hi folks, doing the clutch and rear main on '93 cobra and it looks like my pan gasket is leaking in the rear (maybe). Decided to replace it- Ford gasket on the way.

On posts some say things have to be jacked up, others say no. I dropped the pan and could possibly get a gasket in there but if the Ford gasket is one piece am I hosed without taking the oil pan off? or at least jacking it up enough to "snake" the gasket around the oil pickup and pump?

I really DO NOT want to take off the oil pump/pickup, move the rack, radiator hoses, engine mounts, blah blah to jack this up. Plus the more I dork with it the more I can see dirt and crap getting into the pan.

If the Ford gasket is one piece can I cut it on one side (where they don't usually leak away from the crank) and then RTV it at that joint? Mine is bone dry all the way around except for the rear. What do you think? Should be no worse than some of the 3 piece? gaskets out there...

If I snake it around the oil pump and pickup and get some oil on the sides I guess game over, or does it matter as long as it's clean where the dabs of RTV go around the crank?

If all else fails, where do I jack the block up? I don't think I can get a jack up to the engine mount.


'93 Cobra (only new car I have bought) bone stock except K&N, Competition Plus Shifter, BBK adj clutch quad kit

[TmBlackFlag]

when i did the pan gasket on my car i just loosened the motor mount bolts, unhooked my cold air intake and jacket the motor up by the harmonic balancer. You could jack it up by the pan too just make sure you put a block of wood inbetween.

I might've taken a hose or two off but it definitely wasn't much. I highly recommend the blue gasket that comes with the plastic screws to hold it in place. You won't need to remove the oil pump or pickup just carefully scrape off the old gasket and fish the new gasket around the outside. The plastic clips help out a ton because you're on your back trying to hold several things at once.

Its a dirty job but its not as bad as people make it out to be. If i had a choice I'd do it again myself

[jaytee]

Thanks for the help, TMBlackFlag

Used the Ford gasket so had to take off the oil pump and pickup, plus the distributor to get the shaft back in.

Got it all done and no leaks so far (fingers crossed).

A few tips on the clutch that might be useful for some:

1. The flywheel only appears to go on one way because of the staggered bolt pattern. Get new bolts- they come w/ orange thread sealer on them already.

2. When I dropped the oil pan I put some aluminum foil in the pan and around the gaasket to keep things in place while I cleaned the surfaces and keep the crap out of the pan.

3. Prime the oil pump if you can, and when it's all done crank it over w/o iginition to pump up the valvetrain.

3. Getting the X-pipe off requires you to separate the 5/8" hanger bolt strap on the rear engine mount. When you get the cross piece in just jack up the back of the trans a bit so you leave a little room to slip the X-pipe bracket back in when you're straining to lift it up...

4. I filled the trans through the gearshift hole- much easier than the fill plug.

5. Be sure to put the clutch disc in the right way, with the flywheel stamp facing that way.

Thanks to all for the great posts and help- this forum rocks!