Just got my engine in my car not more than 2-3 weeks ago and its been running hot the whole time, it would go way up to the "O" from the "normal" on the stock gauge, but normally it would go down a little after that, but yesterday it got to the "N" and had to shut her down. After i shut it off smoke just poured out of my engine bay, found i had a semi loose hose from the heater core and coolant started blowing by the clamp all over the exaust manifold. But my question is could a little RTV in a thermostat cause the car to be running hot? Its a new therm. new water pump, new hoses, the fans starting to crack, and radiators falling apart. Should i start with a new radiator and fan, or should i replace the thermostat, and make sure that the thermostat wasnt the problem?
Thanks
Joe, first make sure how accurate the gauge really is with a non-contact temp gun. Because water sprayed out past a loose hose clamp does not mean that the engine is overheating. If you think that the engine is still running hot, check the delta T across the radiator with a non-contact temp gun ( very handy little tool ), either remove the thermostat or make sure that it is fully open. Take a reading at the upper hose and a reading at the lower hose, a reading within 10-15 degrees of each other is normal. If the readings are farther seperatated from each other then you have a flow problem, numbers close together means you have a capacity problem. For example: upper hose of 200 degrees and lower hose of 125 degrees, farther away means flow issue, either plugged radiator or a water pump with a spinning impeller. If you did not change the design of anything and most all is close to stock I would not consider you having a capacity problem unless the fan clutch is not working properly. Feel in front of the fan clutch it is oily then the clutch is leaking and needs to be replaced. Spin the fan with the engine not running, should be a little resistance to it and not free spin several revolutions. Remember, regulators are fully open 20 degrees past regulator setting. If you have a 180 degree regulator then it will be fully open at 200 degrees. Let me know how it turns out. Paul
drain the system get radiator flush. it could be caused by a clogged radiator i had that prob on 2 of mine but one of them was from too small of a radiator had to go with a three channel radiator
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90 gt conversion,302 block,352 stroker,roller cam lifters,rockers,roush 200 race heads,64cc ,75mm tb,gt-40 upper and lower,x303 cam, screw factory computers still got speed dinsity and new nock sensors ya on a ford motor mega squirt II fuel management
It sounds like you are just asking for problems. You need to fix that fan blade and get that leaking hose fixed. Take it in steps but take care of the major stuff first.
I would advise also getting either a new radiator because the stock ones really suck. Aluminum radiators are worth their weight in gold but they do cost a good chunk and usually require a conversion to electric fan because of space between the pulleys.
90 gt conversion,302 block,352 stroker,roller cam lifters,rockers,roush 200 race heads,64cc ,75mm tb,gt-40 upper and lower,x303 cam, screw factory computers still got speed dinsity and new nock sensors ya on a ford motor mega squirt II fuel management
spring for Electric fan fix the hose flush the system and make sure its not vapor locked if you have a Air Pocket were the Temp guage is than it will never show the right Temp
Found the problem!! Feel kinda dumb saying this but I was low on coolant. However I know i filled it up all the way before, so i did some snooping and one of my brand new heater core hoses is cracked!! Thanks for all the input, and I will be fixing the rest of the problems as money alows... thanks guys
Need help with cooling problem 
