I have never attempted to change a water pump before. I think I am going to have to, cuz I see no water circulating in my radiator when it is running with the rad cap off. Also, just to make this install a TON of fun, I have a Vortech SC installed that is partially in the way.
Does anyone have any tips on what I need for this project? Any thing I need to know? Thanks in advance for all advice....
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1988 Supercharged 'Vert - SOLD!!!
1970 F100 - 10 bolt posi Rear end, Fuel Injected 302, Traction Bars, EQ shorties, Bed Cover, Custom Interior with power leather seats- custom dash/console, AOD w/ B&M shifter, Tubbed w/ 15x10s rear and 15x7s up front, no emissions junk and it's LEGAL!!!
"Only two defining forces have ever offerred to die for you: Je$us Christ and the American G.I." - Author Unknown
Well I am not sure what the supercharger is like to remove seeing as I have never had one but I just took my whole front assembly off last weekend to install a new cam and well it was really not that bad at all. I would just drain the rad, take off your belt, pull the fan, shroud, and rad out. Then basically just start unbolting, I can't remember exactly what all has to come out to get at the water pump but I have a feeling pretty much everything does because there is bolts that go to mounting plates and such that go through the water pump housing. But even that is not so bad, just try and keep your bolts all separated out and maybe labeled so you know where they go back because there is all sorts of different lengths and different sizes of heads on some of the bolts too . Also make sure you have all of the gaskets you will need and while you are in there you may want to change the thermostat out since they are cheap and it is right there anyways. Well good luck with the change, are you installing just a stock pump or a high flow one?
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1988 Mustang GT - 331, hand ported Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Stage 2 cam, R-Series intake, 1 3/4 long tubes, dual 3" exhaust, tko 600, Zex 100 shot, ect.
357 rwhp/ 361 rwtq on motor
428 rwhp/ 484 rwtq on 100 shot
12.48 @ 111 mph on motor (2200ft + elevation)
11.7 @ 120 mph on 100 shot (2200ft + elevation)
My rule is, if it's an involved job, (like a waterpump) get a good one. That said, I've run autozone waterpumps before. Napa is probably better. Was the engine warm when you looked in the radiator? Your radiator could be clogged too, causing it to not flow.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
get a high volume one from summit, its only like 120 bucks man. dont skimp on your mustang. save the skimping for your daily driver.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
My rule is, if it's an involved job, (like a waterpump) get a good one. That said, I've run autozone waterpumps before. Napa is probably better. Was the engine warm when you looked in the radiator? Your radiator could be clogged too, causing it to not flow.
My engine was warm, and my radiator is basically new. I have never run hot since I got my aluminum radiator elec fan combo. I thought maybe my thermo was stuck, but the upper hose was just as hot as the bottom one. The water pump has never been replaced to my knowledge. But it does not leak a drop. Wouldn't I have heard some noise, or something if the WP broke while driving? I didn't hear anything, but it started running hot while idling. I can't think of anything else it might be but the WP. If anyone has any bright ideas, I'd love to hear them.... Thanks for all the comments, guys:thumbsup
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1988 Supercharged 'Vert - SOLD!!!
1970 F100 - 10 bolt posi Rear end, Fuel Injected 302, Traction Bars, EQ shorties, Bed Cover, Custom Interior with power leather seats- custom dash/console, AOD w/ B&M shifter, Tubbed w/ 15x10s rear and 15x7s up front, no emissions junk and it's LEGAL!!!
"Only two defining forces have ever offerred to die for you: Je$us Christ and the American G.I." - Author Unknown
Have you replaced the thermostat to amke sure it isn't that before you get that involved? I had an 85 years ago and I ran into the same problem. Turned out to be the thermostat. Just an idea....
Good luck with the install, it's not as hard as it looks, just make sure you clean everything off, and that there aren't any old pieces of the old gasket.
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1979 Pace Car – Use to have a bunch of goodies......sold them all to buy a house. She'll be alive again.
1989 GT - DSS 331 short block, Eibach Sport line springs, Magnaflow CBE, Pypes Headers/mid pipe, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads & 1.6 rockers, Cobra upper/lower, 24 lb inj......so on and so on...
I've never seen one break inside(which really means nothing). Try squeezing the bypass hose, it should always have water coursing through it. The bypass is the 90º elbow hose between the pump and the thermostat housing.
I have seen thermostats stick shut.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Is there any real harm in doing it? No... if you're running hot with an aluminum radiator, then maybe your water pump isn't doing a good enough job. And, like systronic said, don't skimp.
Spend the extra moolah and get yourself a Heavier Duty water pump. Those stock pumps aren't built with the intent to handle higher RPMs (if you bring your car up there, and with a S/C... yeah, you just might be ) I mean, yes, they will get the job done and will push water/coolant through it, but will tend to wear out quicker. So, you're choice, really.
The vanes on the water pump can literally rust into nothingness. Ive seen it a few times over the years, but in every case the radiator looked like mud water was flowing in it.
90 gt conversion,302 block,352 stroker,roller cam lifters,rockers,roush 200 race heads,64cc ,75mm tb,gt-40 upper and lower,x303 cam, screw factory computers still got speed dinsity and new nock sensors ya on a ford motor mega squirt II fuel management
Usually a busted waterpump has common signs of noises, hums or small leaks out of the weep hole. If you arent experiencing that I would inspect your thermostat like stated.
Thats a lot less expensive but it can be a PITA with that supercharger. Those two smaller hoses are a real pain. Make sure you put some grease on the inside of them so you can twist them into position or else you will be sorry.
The last 'in car' 5.0 water pump I replaced was on my 1987 Grand Marquis. The symptoms of failure were a subtle anti-freeze odor in the engine bay, which surprisingly enough had been present since the vehicle was new, although I could never detect any leaks. When the pump finally let go, the coolant begins to leak out of the 'weep hole' in the top of the casting where the shaft runs out. Luckily it wasn't a catastrophic failure as I was able to drive the vehicle (with somewhat frequent pit stops) around 500 miles back to my home. The local dealers/repair shops wanted an obscene amount of $$$ to replace what amounted to a $40 part (brand new from NAPA). It took me about six hours to replace mine, and that included a bit of 'running around' part searching.
Some Tips:
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the coolant (Duh!).
Remove the radiator, shroud, fan. Label the bolts or thread them back into place.
Make a diagram (or take a pic) of how the belt(s) are routed.
Start at the front of the motor and work toward the block.
Move the accessories over to the side and secure using rope/twine/bungees/etc.
Be careful removing the water pump bolts! For the most part the actual water pump bolts thread into or through aluminum die-cast housings. Breaking one of these off and you're in for a real fun time. These bolts are like gold at the dealerships. I think they quoted me around $8 per and this was back in the early 90's. And you're not gonna find them at your local Home Depot. They are threaded 5/16 on the motor side, and 3/8 on the accessory side. And they have varying lengths. If you're not running any accessories, then it's not a problem. But you are. Inspect (and clean!) those bolts once you get them out. I can't remember for sure, but I know at least one of them runs through open coolant before getting into the timing cover. These bolts may have rusted to the point that you shouldn't reuse them. Assuming you haven't snapped it off already. I wasn't so lucky, I ended up using a small pipe wrench (ViseGrips didn't work) to remove it. Then it's definitely a trip to the dealer (or perhaps junk yard, although at this point I sucked it up and got a new bolt).
Remove the old gasket material carefully! Don't get in there and start gouging with a screwdriver. Take your time, cause if you dig into the surface of the timing cover, you'll have a hell of a time getting the new gasket to seal correctly.
I used Hylomar on the new gasket when it came time to reassemble. Also coat the shanks of the bolts that pass through the coolant in Hylomar. This will help delay any future rusting. Oh, and use a bit of anti-sieze on the threads.
As far as water pumps go, buy a new one. It's not much more than a rebuild and the warranty is better. Although it only covers the actual part, the real cost of this repair is the labor involved...As you will find out.
You do own a torque wrench, right? Use it. Torque spec is 12-18 lbs.
Reassemble/Refill/Reconnect. Elapse time: I'd budget around 3-6 hours, depending on how the bolts come out and how they look.
The last 'in car' 5.0 water pump I replaced was on my 1987 Grand Marquis. The symptoms of failure were a subtle anti-freeze odor in the engine bay, which surprisingly enough had been present since the vehicle was new, although I could never detect any leaks. When the pump finally let go, the coolant begins to leak out of the 'weep hole' in the top of the casting where the shaft runs out. Luckily it wasn't a catastrophic failure as I was able to drive the vehicle (with somewhat frequent pit stops) around 500 miles back to my home. The local dealers/repair shops wanted an obscene amount of $$$ to replace what amounted to a $40 part (brand new from NAPA). It took me about six hours to replace mine, and that included a bit of 'running around' part searching.
Some Tips:
Disconnect the battery.
Drain the coolant (Duh!).
Remove the radiator, shroud, fan. Label the bolts or thread them back into place.
Make a diagram (or take a pic) of how the belt(s) are routed.
Start at the front of the motor and work toward the block.
Move the accessories over to the side and secure using rope/twine/bungees/etc.
Be careful removing the water pump bolts! For the most part the actual water pump bolts thread into or through aluminum die-cast housings. Breaking one of these off and you're in for a real fun time. These bolts are like gold at the dealerships. I think they quoted me around $8 per and this was back in the early 90's. And you're not gonna find them at your local Home Depot. They are threaded 5/16 on the motor side, and 3/8 on the accessory side. And they have varying lengths. If you're not running any accessories, then it's not a problem. But you are. Inspect (and clean!) those bolts once you get them out. I can't remember for sure, but I know at least one of them runs through open coolant before getting into the timing cover. These bolts may have rusted to the point that you shouldn't reuse them. Assuming you haven't snapped it off already. I wasn't so lucky, I ended up using a small pipe wrench (ViseGrips didn't work) to remove it. Then it's definitely a trip to the dealer (or perhaps junk yard, although at this point I sucked it up and got a new bolt).
Remove the old gasket material carefully! Don't get in there and start gouging with a screwdriver. Take your time, cause if you dig into the surface of the timing cover, you'll have a hell of a time getting the new gasket to seal correctly.
I used Hylomar on the new gasket when it came time to reassemble. Also coat the shanks of the bolts that pass through the coolant in Hylomar. This will help delay any future rusting. Oh, and use a bit of anti-sieze on the threads.
As far as water pumps go, buy a new one. It's not much more than a rebuild and the warranty is better. Although it only covers the actual part, the real cost of this repair is the labor involved...As you will find out.
You do own a torque wrench, right? Use it. Torque spec is 12-18 lbs.
Reassemble/Refill/Reconnect. Elapse time: I'd budget around 3-6 hours, depending on how the bolts come out and how they look.
How hard to change a water pump? 
. Also make sure you have all of the gaskets you will need and while you are in there you may want to change the thermostat out since they are cheap and it is right there anyways. Well good luck with the change, are you installing just a stock pump or a high flow one?
) I mean, yes, they will get the job done and will push water/coolant through it, but will tend to wear out quicker. So, you're choice, really.
