So I was on the highway doing about 50 and the car just killed. No warning, no strange noises, just died. After pulling over, the car just turns over. No fire, no nothing. It was running fine last night and earlier today. What in the world would cause this. When I turn the key foreward the electronics turn on, except for the fuel pump and the fan. I think it my be my eec. I was running the tweecer on it, and it was secured to the eec so I dont think it came loose frying them both. The car was running great after my rebuild. Could the fuel pump went out, or is it the eec, since the fan wont come on either. If there is anything I forgot to add, let me know.
My car just did this to me last weekend. It is still dead. Unfortunatly it is a witch hunt. I replaced a bunch of parts before I dropped the tank. I should have done that first. Before I dropped the tank I replaced the Ignition Switch, Ignition Module, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump Relay, and the EEC Power Relay. I also jumped the fuel pump still nothing. I dropped the tank today and it was worse than just a fuel pump. When I dropped the tank I noticed right away that the electrical connection on top of the fuel tank was melted on the Black Wire (Ground) and when I removed the pump from the tank the terminal inside was cooked also. I guess I was lucky I was not blown up into a million pieces. So I have to reorder another fuel pump this time with the whole cradle and not just the pump, and a new wire harness. I am guessing I will need a new EEC also as I am sure that has to be cooked also. Not even sure how to check that. I don't want to put a new pump in and have my current EEC cook the new pump. I guess I will order a new one anyway just in case. Just for giggles I hooked my old fuel pump up to my battery to see if it works and it works fine. Hopefully this will help you. I have been trouble shooting this for the past week so let me know how you make out, I will go more in depth in the tests that I did if you want.
Well I kinda have the feeling its the fuel pump, or something to do with that. I wonder if my eec is shot, if it broke my tweecer as well. I'll check me fuel pump at another time since I'll be working nights for the next 7 days. Any one else have any ideas, or suggestions???
And thats why its always easier and cheaper to test the components.
95gt - did you pop the distributor cap to see if it is twirling as the engine is cranked?
If it is, the you will need to check the fuel pressure. You can narrown things down by seeing if the car will run on some starting fluid. Yes it runs = fuel type problem, no it doesn=ignition/computer problem.
Also, you might unplug the tweeker or re-flash it just in case the program got hosed.
Just a FYI, The harness on the fuel tank taht connects the fuel sender and fuel pump to the main harness is discontinued. If your terminal is melted like mine was here is a place that sells Ford OEM Replacement Connectors. The connector on the fuel pump is PN 99-8130
Dude, don't even try to start the car if the pump isn't priming. If the pump is not coming on, then that is your problem fix that first. Dont even look at the distibutor and crap because that is stupid if the pump is not turning on. That car wont start without the pump, if you want to make sure its the pump, have someone spray brake cleaner or dump gas in the intake while you are cranking it and if the car runs then you are getting spark, but it will only run as long as someone is dumping fuel or something in, but it still tells you if there is spark. Given your information its definatley the pump since its not turning on, check the inertia switch in the trunk if you hit a bump or something hard enough it will stop sending power to the pump. It could also be the relay, but a lot of people have had pumps simply just quit without warning also, others lose pressure while driving. I dont mean to come off as a *****, I just can't believe this isn't the main thing on everyone else's mind. I know from experience. If there is no fuel then the distributor doesn't mean anything. Especially since its turning over, and I doubt you fouled 8 plugs at once. Good Luck.
Thanks, atleast you said what was on your mind no run around. I checked the fuel switch in the trunk, and it was down. I guess thats the right postition. I too feel it is something with the pump, the only thing that bothers me is the fan wont come on either. Where is the relay located?
For the pump, the relay is under the driver seat, but yours is an sn95 so I dont know if it is the same for it. So your saying you have an electric fan? Maybe you blew a fuse or something, I don't have an electric fan so that is really not my area. I doubt that it could be your ecc also as those are supposed to outlast everything in the car, I would definately get the pump priming first. You can jumper it with a wire by connecting one end to the fuel pump port on the eec self test harness, Im not sure but I think you just ground the other end to the negative battery terminal and you should hear the pump prime. I guess it wouldn't hurt to pull the codes neither. GL
Sorry, I didnt notice the fan part. The EEC controls the electric fan and fuel pump. It COULD be an eec, although unlikely. IMO it is more likely to be a blown fuse or bad ignition switch. It would help if you have a schematic of the vehicle to compare what circuits the two systems share.
Either Way my initial thinking was that MAYBE he cant hear the pump and it really is running?
Do you want to do simple checks to quickly ID the problem, or do you want to take a bunch of crap apart not KNOWING for sure where the problem is?
The distributor is a 5 second job look (just two little clips and no tools, imagine that) to make sure the problem isnt mechanical.
Checking the fuel pressure is a 5 second job with the right tools - as is seeing if the car will start off the starter fluid. I have a guage, I hook it up and turn the key to test the pressure. If you dont have a guage, spray some starting fluid.
Either way is a boat load faster than pulling the tank to swap a good, and its sure cheaper than replacing parts that might not be bad.
No, for what ever reason you can always hear the fuel pump when the key is turned on. The fan usually turns on for a sec or two. I checked my fuses under the dash and under the hood, and I didnt notice any blown. I will start simple, with some starter fluid, and take it from there. I really hope I dont have to drop my gas tank.
If you hear the pump when you turn the key on then I stand with what I said originally - pop the dizzy cover and make sure its spinning when you crank the engine. If not, you have a mechanical problem. If so, try starting off some starting fluid. I would do them in this order becaus eyou dont want starting fluid sitting in the motor if there is no chance of it starting. If it doesnt start from fluid AND the distributor is spinning, check for spark - and if it does start then you have a fuel and/or ECM problem.
I know its been a while, but what I meant was when the car is operating like it is suppose to, you can hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is turned. Also, on a '95 where is the relay located?
I think the relay is on the fenderwall which is right next to the EEC Power Relay which is which I don't know. Take the relay off and jump the wires and see if the pump comes on. Don't waste your time and money replacing a whole bunch of parts. I learned my lesson. Drop the fuel tank, but make sure you have a Duck Bill Clip Tool to take the clips off the return lines, it will make it much easier. Don't order a new pump till you remove the old one like I did, otherwise you will be buying two like me. I bought my replacment pump from NAPA for $163 but I should have spent the extra $$$ and got the Ford Racing 190 LPH pump from Summit.
Car just DIED leaving me stranded on the highway 
