you can adjust the line pressure with the tv cable and thats about it, but it doesnt control the shift points just the firmness of the shift. too bad they werent like the old chevy TH350, you could adjust the vacuum modulator and set it to shift higher up in rpm's.
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84 Predator Mustang GT302R [Gone]
89GT: built fairly good (sold)
92LX: 4cyl to 5.0 conv. completed on the cheap (sold)
88GT: 302/AOD,stock 2.73's and traclok, LT's, custom 2 1/2" exhaust made by me with thrush chambered mufflers dumped at rear axle, hayden electric fan..more to come, daily driver.
the shift kit is what changes the shift points.
get a performance torque converter..
3500 isnt so hot... my 88 has a stock AOD and it doesnt shift until about 4000... maybe its not stock and i just dont know it.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
Why the hweck would you want to shift at 4000 RPM?
It c hould be shifting close to redline. on the GM 700R4 Traany the TV cable was the way because the line pressure did determin shift point.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Why the hweck would you want to shift at 4000 RPM?
It c hould be shifting close to redline. on the GM 700R4 Traany the TV cable was the way because the line pressure did determin shift point.
Why would you want to shift at redline? Assuming the car is actually still pulling in that range I guess it makes sense but I dont think you should shift at redline just for the sake of it.
our 5.0's operate best in the 4500 - 5000 rpm range. its a daily driver chief.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
You can adjust that somewhat by upping the tv pressure.
Look at the TCI website for info on how to do that.
The stock setting is around 33 psi with a lukewarm trans,
and a gauge block holding the tv cable out a specific amount.
You need i.e. a decent oil pressure gauge attached to a port
on the right side of the trans to check that.
You can set the psi up to 40 which will help increase both
shift points and firmness during harder acceleration,
as long as you keep the at-idle psi with no gauge block
at 5 psi or below.
Also, has your governor ever been changed?
There are 3 diff gov's for AOD's, with the Mustang
one being the highest. Maybe somehow or other
you got a lower rpm governor?
With a Baumann shift kit, you can make further adjustments
to your shift points.
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89 Linc Mk VII LSC mass air w/A9P; 95 351 Lightning shortblock, 1.9 Ebrock heads, GT40-351 lower w/match Explorer top, 70mm mass air w/30 lb inj's, TF Stage 1 w/1.72 Crane rockers, 1-5/8 ceramic shorties, 2-1/2" Dynomax catback, 3 row rad, Ford blue hoses & wires, remote trans filter & plate cooler, 2500 lockup stall, beefed AOD, shift kit, 3:55's, 96 Cobra 17x8's, 99 Stang bolt on scoop. 4R70W, 2600 stall, Baumann TCS soon.
I took it back to the Shp today and they took it for another drive and agreed that the shifts were at way too low RPM. I mean at WOT when it shifts at 3500rpm the dan enine just falls on its nose because it drops to too low of an RPM in 2nd to effectively pull.
Personally shiftin at redline if its not still pulling is not the thin to do, but the theory is you have more mechanical advantage in the lower gear so you can still pull a little more than in the next gear (to a point) then you need the shift to move to more tore from the engine to keep accelerating,but you dont want to fall too low in the RPMs in the next gear.
I would be happy if it shifted between 4800-5200RPM. This is just a daily driver mule, but it should take 13 seconds to get to 60. Shifting at 3500RM is how you drive a deisel.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Also, has your governor ever been changed?
There are 3 diff gov's for AOD's, with the Mustang
one being the highest. Maybe somehow or other
you got a lower rpm governor?
Never heard of a "governor" in an AOD. What part are you thinking of?
The governor is a mechanical device mounted on the forward end
of the output shaft just behind the rear of the main case and inside
the front of the output shaft housing.
It works off of a combination of output shaft speed and hydraulic
pressure to control shift points.
The attached scan is out of my Ford factory service manual for
my car that shows the basic location.
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89 Linc Mk VII LSC mass air w/A9P; 95 351 Lightning shortblock, 1.9 Ebrock heads, GT40-351 lower w/match Explorer top, 70mm mass air w/30 lb inj's, TF Stage 1 w/1.72 Crane rockers, 1-5/8 ceramic shorties, 2-1/2" Dynomax catback, 3 row rad, Ford blue hoses & wires, remote trans filter & plate cooler, 2500 lockup stall, beefed AOD, shift kit, 3:55's, 96 Cobra 17x8's, 99 Stang bolt on scoop. 4R70W, 2600 stall, Baumann TCS soon.
How to set shift point on AOD 
