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Old 07-23-2006   #1 (permalink)
Mac 108 is offline Rookie


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Default Overheating problem

I have a 90 Ford Mustang with a carbed 306 with a T5.

I got completely swindled on buying it, it repeatedly overheated on the way home and I may be stuck with it.

Anyway, the problem is that the car overheats after a few minutes of driving. It does not overheat at idle, at least it does not overheat as rapidly as when it is driving.

There are no leaks, the coolant reservoir and large aluminum radiator are full, no hoses appear to be collapsing and the fan spins like it is supposed to.

I removed the thermostat and it cooled down significantly, but it still began to overheat after about 15-20 minutes of driving. This was not bumper to bumper traffic either.

Any ideas on what the problem could be?
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Old 07-23-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Since it is bored out a little and Memphis is kinda hot this time of year I would expect it to run a little warm. Did you call the guy you bought it from? He may not have tried to swindle you, he may have just changed fluids and left an air bubble in the radiator. I would give him a chance to make it right. If that is not an option: Make sure you don't have oil and coolant mixing, flush your system, replace your thermostat with a 180 (I would reccomend), add some water wetter by redline, check your radiator for debris (critters, plastic bags, leaves etc) you may need to go electric fans and build a shroud if you don't have one.
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Old 07-23-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake Pliskin
Since it is bored out a little and Memphis is kinda hot this time of year I would expect it to run a little warm. Did you call the guy you bought it from? He may not have tried to swindle you, he may have just changed fluids and left an air bubble in the radiator. I would give him a chance to make it right. If that is not an option: Make sure you don't have oil and coolant mixing, flush your system, replace your thermostat with a 180 (I would reccomend), add some water wetter by redline, check your radiator for debris (critters, plastic bags, leaves etc) you may need to go electric fans and build a shroud if you don't have one.
This is a major overheating problem. There is no air in the system. They also lied about other things and refused to refund my money even if I had it towed at my expensive. It took me at least 3 and a half overs to drive it 35 miles home after I bought it.
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Old 07-23-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Sorry you got burned. I'm surprised these things didn't show up when you test drove it. I always put 30 minutes or so behind the wheel when I test drive one. Did any of the obvious things I mentioned appear to be on?
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Old 07-23-2006   #5 (permalink)
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Well it was dumb on my part to buy the damn thing. Goes to show that you can't trust anyone nowadays.

I haven't had time to check, unfortunately the car couldn't make it to wear I live, it is at my father's house.
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Old 07-23-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Default Carbed 90 model 206

If it looks like the original radiator, you may (probably do) need a new radiator.

Depending on the setup on the motor (how many horses will it run), size of carburetor, state of tune, etc, you may need more radiator than a stock item designed for a 215 hp fuel injected motor anyway.

Are any of the radiator hoses being sucked flat when the car runs or starts to overheat?

Have you checked the oil for water - and the water for oil? Like snake says, its best to know...

Finally, you may just be looking at a bad build. Does the motor (or gaskets) look new? Its possible whoever built it blocked a coolant passage during the build - in which case only a disassembly will get you fixed.

Now that I'm thinking about that, are you leaking from the head gaskets - is there any white smoke coming from the tailpipes?

I'd do those checks we mentioned, then pull that radiator and have it checked at a radiator shop.

If it just needs a cleaning (or even a new radiator) count yourself lucky.

Snake is right, 180 degree thermostat and water wetter ( I use both myself ). But I suspect you're going to need more.
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Old 07-24-2006   #7 (permalink)
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ive had electric fans on my car since i bought it, but does the stock fan have a clutch? if so it could be that.
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Old 07-24-2006   #8 (permalink)
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Hopefully its a minor issue.. Cooling systems are pretty basic. Sounds like a stuck t-stat. Easy to test, start the car-let it run, keep feeling the upper and lower radiator hoses. Until the stat opens, one will be hot and one will be cool. If it starts to overheat and one hose is still cool thats your issue. My opinion- If your planning on adding power to the motor. Get an alum rad, 160 or 180 t-stat, hi flow water pump and an elec fan plus some water wetter. You can run wide open in the desert and not overheat.. Good luck
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Old 07-24-2006   #9 (permalink)
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Sounds like the rad to me. If it's old and crappy, it's probably toast. If the bottom of the rad is cool when the upper portion is hot, that's a good sign that you need a new one.
It also may have the incorrect waterpump. The serpentine belt uses a reverse-rotation waterpump, if you put an older pump on, it will spin backward, and not work well.
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Old 09-24-2006   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meangreen92
Sounds like the rad to me. If it's old and crappy, it's probably toast. If the bottom of the rad is cool when the upper portion is hot, that's a good sign that you need a new one.
It also may have the incorrect waterpump. The serpentine belt uses a reverse-rotation waterpump, if you put an older pump on, it will spin backward, and not work well.
How can I tell if I have the wrong water pump?
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