Well, i thought last time i checked it was working a few months ago but recently my heater core went and i bypass it for right now and now i just tried my a/c cuz its so hot in NY where i live right now and it only blows hot air, not getting cold at all.
What do i have to replace and how do i check. i have no idea at all about the a/c components in the car so fill me in.
Then, Well, i bougth the recharge kit and im in the middle of doing it and the guage is in the blue which means it should be full and my a/c compressor clicked and then turned on and turned off and back on. is it suppose to stay running or what?
THen i went back outside and tried it again and the a/c compressor did'nt turn on at all.
To add to this,
Ok well i bypassed or jumpered the switch and the compressor engaged and it was on for like 10 seconds and i went in the car and still the same air. wen i went to put more refrigerant in the car when i took off the thing connected to the low pressure port for the a/c it went all over the place and came out and also what about that link for the vacuum pump?
Do you mean that all the refrigerant came out of the low pressure valve?
If you are low on refrigerant (r-12 or r-134a) you have a leak, and it will keep on leaking until it's repaired. The only proper way to diagnois the problem is with a full set of A/C gauges and a leak detector. Bypassing the low pressure switch for more than a couple of minutes can do damage to the compressor if the system is low on refrigerant.
My advice is to take it to a shop and have it checked out. I've been doing automotive A/C since the late 80's and there are a lot of things that can go wrong with a system, and alot of things you can do to damage the system.
But taking a guess, I'd say you didn't add enough refrigerant in the system, the problem with those "A/C DIY Kits" is that they don't have a high pressure side gauge. And yes the compressor should stay on most of the time, but will shut off once in a while to "cycle the system" which keeps the evaporator from freezing up.
Oh and BTW, never use A/C stop leak, I've seen that crap foul up more systems by clogging the orfice tube than I can count.
The vacuum pump connects to both the high and low side ports, this will evacuate the system after a repair has "opened" the system up.
There's no way i was low on refrigerant because i filled it up that second to where it said it was enough.
So your saying bring it to a professional. its just i did'nt wanna do taht cause i have no money at all to have someone fix it or look at it.
Any other ideas I can try to outrule things?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90GT AOD
Do you mean that all the refrigerant came out of the low pressure valve?
If you are low on refrigerant (r-12 or r-134a) you have a leak, and it will keep on leaking until it's repaired. The only proper way to diagnois the problem is with a full set of A/C gauges and a leak detector. Bypassing the low pressure switch for more than a couple of minutes can do damage to the compressor if the system is low on refrigerant.
My advice is to take it to a shop and have it checked out. I've been doing automotive A/C since the late 80's and there are a lot of things that can go wrong with a system, and alot of things you can do to damage the system.
But taking a guess, I'd say you didn't add enough refrigerant in the system, the problem with those "A/C DIY Kits" is that they don't have a high pressure side gauge. And yes the compressor should stay on most of the time, but will shut off once in a while to "cycle the system" which keeps the evaporator from freezing up.
Oh and BTW, never use A/C stop leak, I've seen that crap foul up more systems by clogging the orfice tube than I can count.
The vacuum pump connects to both the high and low side ports, this will evacuate the system after a repair has "opened" the system up.
You can not know the level of refrigerant in the system without a set of A/C gauges with a "low side" and "high side" gauge. I don't care what that gauge on the DIY gizmo you have read, you can have low pressure readinjg with in specs, but the system still might not be full, this is why you need a "high side" pressure gauge.
Automotive A/C can be a tough project to diagnois and it takes a while to get a "feel" for it, and there are a lot "tricks" of the trade that you can only learn through experiance.
IMO I'd bet that you were about 1 can short of a full system, before it all came back out.
You can not know the level of refrigerant in the system without a set of A/C gauges with a "low side" and "high side" gauge. I don't care what that gauge on the DIY gizmo you have read, you can have low pressure readinjg with in specs, but the system still might not be full, this is why you need a "high side" pressure gauge.
Automotive A/C can be a tough project to diagnois and it takes a while to get a "feel" for it, and there are a lot "tricks" of the trade that you can only learn through experiance.
IMO I'd bet that you were about 1 can short of a full system, before it all came back out.
My dad is the manager at a auto part store and ill get the guages from him cuz i know he has them. and also it did'nt all come out really. the wierd thing also is last year i bought the car before me the guy converted it to 134a and i dont see how the freon could be gone when it was'nt used at all.
The system is always under pressure so it can leak even without using the system. Ford's A/C system's are known to leak from the "snap lock" connectors, they're always the first thing I check, but can leak from many other areas.
A full set of gauges is a good start, but unless you know how to read them, they may not be help to you. I hope you get it straightend out, I'm still betting that you were low on r-134a, but unless you repair the leak, you're going to have to keep adding it. How much you'll need to add in the future depends on how fast the system is leaking.
Just being a bit techincal here, but the word "Freon" is the brand name of r-12 from DuPont, r-134a is just known as refrigerant.
80s fords use vaccum to open the blend doors, check ur vaccum lines see if there intack and reliable. or grab a vaccum pump and apply vaccum to see if the doors open/close/move, that will also tell u what line is leaking
80s fords use vaccum to open the blend doors, check ur vaccum lines see if there intack and reliable. or grab a vaccum pump and apply vaccum to see if the doors open/close/move, that will also tell u what line is leaking
you said the gauge was in the blue.....was the compressor engaged at the time you took the reading?
the diy gauge is made to read pressure when the a/c clutch is engaged and running for 10-15 seconds.
if you jumped the low switch in the back black canister...then its low on 134a
add enough to get the clutch engaged...then start taking your reading and adding until in the blue.
__________________
89 5.0 convertable..paxton 6lb., flowmasters, full police strobe package,dual alternators w/second complete charging system, competition audio system w/18 speakers incuding
4-15" subs in a lexan enclosure
lowered and custom painted with a mustang airbrushed on the hood.
A/C not blowing cold air! really strange problem. 
