I'm looking at installing Edelbrock 5.0 Perfromer Heads on my 1993 GT Mustang.
Does anyone know where I can get detailed instructions on installing heads on 5.0 Mustangs?
Or where I can buy a book?
Are the Edelbrock Heads all prepared so they just basically bolt on?
This is the parts list they gave me. An injector upgrade may not be necessary atthis power level. Here is our Performer Ford EFI 50-state legal setup:
# 3821 Performer (idle-5500) manifold or # 7123 Performer RPM II manifold (1500-6500) # 60379 (1.90”/1.60” valves) or # 60399 (2.02”/1.60” valves) cylinder heads # 3722 Performer roller cam, for MAF engines only # 7364 Gasket set, head, intake, header, valve cover gaskets # 8552 head bolt set # 9680 head bolt bushings (required for 289-302 motors) # 7814 timing set # 4251 timing cover # 4460 chrome valve covers or # 4260 aluminum Elite valve covers among others: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/accessories/vc_classic.shtml
SWEET......... Im atually in the process of doing the same swap.......and i have the same set up....Nice..... yet i only have one more question, well if you guys dont mind..........would anyone recomend running the gt40 heads ported or the performer heads ...and what cam would be the best..! thanks hopefully this helpboth of us........
Heads are fairly simple.... Proper prep of the deck is what takes the most time and is the most critical step for a good headgasket seal.
Go with the 60379 heads, as the smaller 1.90 intake valve will work with the factory pistons. You can leave the cam for now if you wish, but while you're in there you might as well do it all. I would suggest the TFS stage 1 over the Eddy though. Get the head bolt and bushing kit, as you will need the bushings, and the factory head bolts are torque to yield and should not be re-used.
Start by draining the rad, then removing the rad hoses, front accesories, (p/s and a/c can be laid off to the side, they don't have to be disconnected) dizzy, upper intake, and lower intake intake. Unbolt the h-pipe from the headers, then remove the headers as well as the smog tube at the back of the heads. Remove the rad, water pump and timing cover as well. Now you can remove the valve covers, unbolt and remove the rockers and pushrods(keep them in order), and unbolt and remove the heads.
Remove the timing chain and turn the engine over by habd unti #1 cylinder is at TDC. Use a bolt on the end of the cam to turn it over and remove the lifters. Unbolt the thrust plate, and using a long bolt for leverage, remove the cam.
Stuff a rag in the front of the oilpan and scrape off the gasket surfaces for the timing cover. Coat the new cam with some moly lube and slide it in. re-install the thrust plate, then line up the timing chain dot to dot and install it. Use a little blue RTV silicone along with the new gaskets and re-install the timing cover and waterpump. Reinstall the lifters.
Next, place a rag over the lifter valley and useinfg a scaper or soft wire wheel, clean ALL of the old gasket material off of the decks of the block. Use a vacumn to suck out anything that drops into the cylinders. Install the head gaskets with the words FRONT facing the front of the block. (The pass. side will appear upside down, but really is not. Intall the heads and torque down to the manufacturers specs. Start in the middle and work you're way out.
Re-install the lower intake and dizzy. Then slowly tighten the rockers down until you can not wiggle them around anymore. Torque them down to 22 ft-lbs. It should not take more than a 1/4-1/2 turn, if it does, you need shims under that rocker. Rotate the engine until the next set is resting on the base circle of the cam and repeat until all are done.
Re-install the accesories, valve covers, exhaust, and rad. Change the oil and fire her up. Check for leaks, noises and set the timing. Take her for a spin around the block, then change the oil again.
I would highly suggest getting a Haynes manual and a friend who has done it before to help you out.
ok......so you suggest gettting a TFS, stage one......over the edelbrock cam, yes? and will the ;pushrods need to be changed or stock is good......length wond hurt any.........???
and one last thing.....1.7 ped rockers? good choice or 1.6?..........and will they just bolt on?
As you can see...Nothing just bolts on......Pulling the heads and replacing them is one of those jobs. There are lots of opportunities to screw things up royally. Which means lots of $$$ when you do it.
I'm not preaching....But...
From your sig...it looks like there's been some work done already... But if you've personally have never, ever done anything to a motor by all means get someone you trust (that has experience) help you out. Pay him if you have to. Free Beer is always good. Steak dinner is better (along with free beer). Perhaps hook him up with a 'friend'. You know what I'm talkin' about. I've seen so many posts on this and other forums from people that appear to not even own a good set of tools. Hopefully you're not one of them. If you've got to run to the local Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. to get your first good set of wrenches....This is not your job right now. You don't need a $20K set of Snap-on or Mac, but you are going to need a bit more than the basic 'homeowners' set.
You'll definitely need a good torque wrench and a complete set of 3/8" sockets and wrenches, metric and standard as FoMoCo loved to use metric heads on SAE threaded fastners. RTV, Hylomar, thread sealer, thread lube, etc. All stuff that someone that screws with their engines on a routine basis have in their tool boxes. A gasket scraper is nice, but a putty knife or razor blade scraper also works. And lots of shop rags: Buy them at Sam's, etc. by the bag. Oh, yeah...Floor dry. If you're doing this in the driveway or garage, you're gonna make a mess no matter how hard you try not to. And we all know how our wives or girl friends feel about that. And hopefully, this isn't your DD, because if Murphy's Law takes hold, this Sat/Sun project is gonna spill over until Mon/Tue. Or later.
If your 5.0 has low miles (under 100k), I wouldn't mess with the cam right now. This will eliminate having to pull the waterpump/timing cover. And anyone who has ever replaced a waterpump on a 5.0 knows what to expect from those nifty bolt/studs. I'd leave the stock HO cam in it and wait until it's time for a rebuilt. A high mile engine might have issues with the timing chain stretching, and in that case you 'might as well' (MAW) replace the timing set. Or the cam. But then you'll have to have a harmonic dampener puller/installer. And there are a whole bunch of 'issues' with doing a cam swap correctly. If you change out the cam or timing set, you MAW replace the waterpump while your at it. $40 for a pump now will save you hours of work later.
I don't want to discourage ANYONE from doing their own work. By all means get down and dirty. At least when YOU'VE done it YOU know that it's been done correctly....Or YOU'VE screwed it up. In either way...You're prepared for any future 'issues' and there won't be any costly surprises. Like spending a grand at a 'reputedly good' shop, and having the lifters not adjusted correctly. I also know how expensive it is when things get screwed up and have to be re-done. Trust me, you don't want that. Take your time and do it correctly...The first time.
yup im a go getter and have done all the work on my own car.......it just makes me feel better.....plus if anything goes wrong.....I Know where to look...
the only thing that worries me is the lifter situation....pushrods being to long..
i plan on using the edelbrock heads with the 1.7 ped rockers..and stock pushrods...will this hurt anyhing...if so please stop me NOW!
thanks guy, im starting to get addicted to this site! its the best help site ever..
yup im a go getter and have done all the work on my own car.......it just makes me feel better.....plus if anything goes wrong.....I Know where to look...
Then you'll do fine. And you've got the right attitude to boot.
sweet.............and 93mustang!!! keep me posted on your upgrade/////
im starting my project edlbrock swap, next week...ill keep you posted.......dun
ITs on! wish me luck guys....
next week?? ya boi...91 5.0,,,,5spd,,stock low end,,,edelbrock heads. 1.7 crane rockers. tfs stage one cam. 70m tb..upper and lower edlebrock intake...underdrive pullys, grffin rad, extreme black magic electric fan, summit hi flow waterpump, bbk headers,equal length, h-pipe and flowys......i hope this works out guys......
Thanks for all the help!!. I do have tools and I do the maintenance on my car, so I'm not totally in the dark. But I do do realize that there are alot of little things that go along with the head swap. And this would be the most involved thing I have ever done to my car.
I really want to do the heads myself, because the more you do yourself, the more you learn. I had a race shop do my car car from the rear to the transmission, and stopped at the tansmission because I ran out of money. Don't get me wrong , they did a great job, treated it like it was their own car, but very expensive. I really enjoy working on my car anyways and like you guys said, you know it's done right.
I think with the head install, I'm going to go one step at a time and not rush it. I have all winter and the car is not a daily driver. Drag strip from April through Oct. If I run into anything,I know mechanics or I'll get great help as usual on AFM.
Good luck to you Nick. I still have to save some money , if things go right, I am looking at a November start.
Thanks again!
..I think with the head install, I'm going to go one step at a time and not rush it. I have all winter and the car is not a daily driver. Drag strip from April through Oct. If I run into anything,I know mechanics or I'll get great help as usual on AFM...
Yeah....Don't rush. I would suggest also, if you don't have a set of thread chasers...go get them. $40 for a nice set at Sears. Chase even the new stuff. Don't use a regular tap, it'll recut the threads.
And to be a real nag: Start every bolt with your fingers! Man, I hate to see stripped threads on pretty aluminum heads.
Head Installation Instructions 
