i ave a 94' 5.0 SVT cobra 5spd and when im at a top light with the clutch in the idle goes down to about 600rpms and up to about 800rpms, i have premium furel in it and the timing is at 10degres, what do you suggest
buy a 4 banger rice burner, your cam must be way to big.
__________________
DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
Make sure your Idle Air Control Valve is clean, and that the gasket for it isn't leaking. Also check for vacuum leaks elsewhere on the engine (you can spray WD40 around gaskets/lines/hoses and listen for the idle to even out, if it does so after spraying a particular item/section, it's probably the culprit). 200 rpm in fluctuation really isn't very unusual in 5.0s though, but it is a lot less common in the 89-up mass-air cars including yours (it's an everyday thing for 87-88 speed-density cars like my two 5.0s).
Is it a real constant back-and forth that's quick, rough, and noticeable? or is it something you'd hardly notice if you weren't looking at the tach? The more info you give, the more others and myself could help out.
__________________
1976 Ford Mustang II Ghia: 302 with a 600cfm Edelbrock carb, Edelbrock Performer 289 intake, Dynomax Blackjack headers, 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster Super 44s. RJS 11-gallon fuel cell, C4 tranny, chrome 16" pony wheels, fuzzy dice, brown vinyl half-top, and painted in the tackiest color ever (harvest gold, that's why I call it "The Goldenrod").
Also have a 2003 Dodge Ram (lightly modded daily driver/tow rig/office/dining room/home away from home/workshop... I call it "The Big Blue Dawg".)
i have some broking hoses would that make a car run bad ? cuzz my auto run a lil rough
What do these hoses hook to? if they are vacuum hoses then yes, you need to replace them. Now that I think about it, pretty much every hose around the engine should be a vac. hose, unless you're talking about the a/c lines. If they hook up anywhere at the intake or throttle body they're vac. hoses and broken hoses would cause a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks would couse poor idle or not idle at all and the engine would "fall flat on its face."
buy a 4 banger rice burner, your cam must be way to big.
Did you seriously just say that on this forum?... GTFO!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 74stang2togo
200 rpm in fluctuation really isn't very unusual in 5.0s though, but it is a lot less common in the 89-up mass-air cars including yours (it's an everyday thing for 87-88 speed-density cars like my two 5.0s).
Because of my Cam, my idle goes from about 1100 down to about 800, and sometimes gets really low at about 600. However, I know this to be normal and have NO issues with it.
Again, with that 74stang2togo said, make sure your IAC is clean. I had an issue with the idle not too long ago and just purchased new. No issues since then, perfect fix. I think it was like $60 or so at the parts store. You're choice: either clean or buy new!
No Seriously Do You Have A Msd Distributor? That Would Be My Guess.
Bad Bad Bad.
__________________
DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
i think i have the stock cam, but you barely notice it unless your looking at the tach,and i have the stock distributer, whers the IAC located, what do you suggest to use to clean it?
On the side of your throttle body,should be 2 bolts holding it on, couple of wires going to it. Does have a gasket, may need to replace when you remove it.
is it the one that is rusted and there is a piece coming from the header going to it? or is it on the other side, also i was claning my K&N fiter today and the was this plug that was going into the ruber air intake hose it looks like a sensor, it has like a red wire that register something do i need to clean that?
If you have a K&N Filter you should Clean your mass air sensor b/c when you clean the filter if its over oiled it can dirty the 2 elements on the mass air sensor Plus i would set your tps sensor IT will give you better throttle response i had the sam thing going on
__________________
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 Edelbrock Performer 5.0 EFI Intake Msd 6AL MSD blaster coil March Performance under drive pullys a/c ELIMINATOR smog ELIMINATOR cam bbk cold air bbk70mm THROTTLE BODY 73mm mass air ford raceing headers and H pipe 40 flowmasters T 5 TREMEC 373 9' ford rear end
yeah in my 87' stang 5.0 it has better throtle respose that the cobra and the cobra has more power, how do you set the TPS sensor? amd i just cleaned the MAF and filter.
1) Loosen the two screws holding on the TPS, (The screws can be very stubborn, so make sure you have a good quality screw driver that fits snug and has a long handle for lots of torque, or you might strip the heads) just enough to able to swivel the TPS with force.
2) Pierce the "GREEN" wire with the pin and hook the positive (+) lead from the voltmeter to it.
3) Ground the negative (-) lead from the voltmeter. Use a good ground, like the engine or other grounded metal source.
4) Turn your ignition key to the run position, but do not start the vehicle
5) Rotate the TPS until you achieve .98 to .99 Volts (For stock or slightly modified engines).
6) Tighten the screws on the TPS and recheck. Troubleshooting If the maximum or minimum voltage you can obtain is close to the above recommended voltage setting (.98-.99), but the TPS just won't turn enough to get it right, you will have to modify the TPS. If you get a very low voltage reading, make sure you have an accurate voltmeter and your connections are solid, if so, you need to replace your TPS. If you have no voltage, you have a bad connection or a bad voltmeter. Rarely, if never, will a TPS be in such bad shape, especially if your car still runs good.
See Also: Modifying The TPS
__________________
1989 Mustang LX 5.0 Edelbrock Performer 5.0 EFI Intake Msd 6AL MSD blaster coil March Performance under drive pullys a/c ELIMINATOR smog ELIMINATOR cam bbk cold air bbk70mm THROTTLE BODY 73mm mass air ford raceing headers and H pipe 40 flowmasters T 5 TREMEC 373 9' ford rear end
i know how to adjust the tps on my 87 stang 5.0, but my 94' cobra is different and ther is no green wire that goes to it, can you still adjust it? if so how do you adjust th TPS?