I check my TPS sometimes between making passes down the drag strip. One time while I was checking it, the electric fan kicked on and the digital voltage meter went crazy. Does the TPS get an incorrect reading when I am racing and the fan kicks on? I try to keep the engine cool enough for my passes so the fan does not turn on untill after the run. I just wanted to know if it has an effect on performance. Or maybe the fan is wired up wrong.
Thanks
You could have a bad ground. Also, if you have UPs installed then the battery voltage might fall significantly when the fan kicks on - and then everything can sometimes go crazy trying to compensate.
Did you upgrade the alternator? If not, I would try putting in a new alternator with a higher amperage because even with stock size pullies, having an electric fan on a car with an electrical system that is not meant to have one could be the problem.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
No, I have not upgraded the alternator. I was thinking about it. The original reason I was going to upgrade the alternator was that the electric fan seemed to be running way more than it use to and resulting in drainning my battery. I'm going to replace the thermostat first to see if that keeps the fan from runniing so much. It never seemed to run this much when I first had it installed.
I think the thermostat is a good place to start considering the price of one compared to a alternator.
I agree that there is a problem installing the electric fan on an electric system that is not ment to have one. I was taken by the advertised horsepower gains of underdrive pulley's and electric fans. I should have just left it the way it was. I'm starting to understand that alot of these modifications just cause problems elsewhere.
For example, my car came with a K&N conical filter, C&L 76mm meter, C&L Cold Air (in the engine bay), and 75mm Throttle Body. I called C&L to see what size air filter they reccomended with their meter. They said that their meter is designed to be used with the stock air box because of the turbulance created by the stock fan would cause the meter not to read correctly.
So who ever did this car originally messed up there. Maf meter size to throttle body size should be 76mm to 70 or 65 to create a funneling effect. The previous owner screwed up there too.
Thanks for the replys
Well not all things cause problems elsewhere, you just have to realize that there are other things affected by certain things and if you do one modification, you may have to do some other modification to accomodate that modification. Such as the fan and alternator. Obviously adding any sort of electrical component to the system will require more from the alternator which would result in needing a more powerful alternator. Or like installing a supercharger, you will need to also upgrade injectors, MAF and fuel pump. Its not as simple as just installing the supercharger and thats it.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
i'm glad i read this, i was allready thinking of a list of modifications i was gonna apply without thinking of the effects...i learn so much at this forum