Trying to get stud mount rocker arms set on Trick Flow Heads
I just installed a kit from Summit Racing on my 1993LX 5.0 which included Trick Flow (TF) twisted wedge heads, TF intake, crane cam. I also installed a new 70mm throttle body and TF roller rockers. When I set my valves I turned the push rod by hand while tightening the nut on the rocker stud until I couldn't turn it anymore. All valves were set while the corresponding exhaust or intake valve was returning to seat. Then I tightened it another 3/4 turn and locked it down. This was too tight and I had no compression. The second time I set my valves I again twisted the push rod by hand as I tightened the nut on the rocker stud until it just started to effect how easy it was to twist the pushrod. Then I tightened it another 1/4 turn. Both of the ways to adjust valves listed above are on internet forums and there are probably 2 or 3 other ways to do it that I saw. My car started after the second adjustment but ran like crap. Do you think my valves are still out of adjustment? Or I was thinking, does anything have to be done to my computer to adjust for the bigger throttle body? I was told that I would not have to tune it and it would self adjust. Any thoughts?. Thanks.
I know the cam is installed properly. Dot on cam gear facing 6 o-clock. Dot on Crank gear facing 12 o-clock. This made the number one cylinder top dead center. I dropped the distributer with the rotor pointing at the number one wire. I even marked with a sharpie. It actually says "1" on the top of the distributer cap. I then attached spark plug wires on cap counter clockwise in correct firing order. Did I do it right? Thanks
There are two TDC's. TDC Exhaust and TDC Intake. Put the dist in to make sure you're adjusting the right one. I ran into the same problem getting my car up and it ended up being a bad Harmonic Ballancer. The ballencer shifter and set my timing completly off. Also check and make sure you HAVE the correct firing order. Don't go by the way it was when you took everything off. Double check the cam spec card.
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1979 Pace Car – Use to have a bunch of goodies......sold them all to buy a house. She'll be alive again.
1989 GT - DSS 331 short block, Eibach Sport line springs, Magnaflow CBE, Pypes Headers/mid pipe, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Heads & 1.6 rockers, Cobra upper/lower, 24 lb inj......so on and so on...
Here is a fool proof way to adjust your valvetrain, just scroll down on this page till you find "Adjusting Hydraulic Lifters for Proper Preload". This way works every time. BTW zero lash is not when you can no longer turn the pushrod, it is when you just start to feel slight resistance on the pushrod. I would also not go any more than 3/4 of a turn past zero lash, best results I have seen have been in the 1/2 turn to 3/4 turn range, just make sure you do them all the same (3/4 turn has always worked best for me personally).