Problem 1
Last night I was driving my car, turned out of a parking lot and started getting up to speed. As I was doing so, I watched the speedometer to see when I was up to speed. All of the sudden when I hit around 30 MPH it just dropped. I shut off the car and turned it back on to see if it was a fluke...it wasn't.
1. What would cause this?
2. Is the cause related to the transmission? (I had some transmission work done about 1 month ago)
3. What goes into fixing it?
Problem 2
After the speedo had died, I was still driving a bit to get home. I turned onto my street when all the sudden my wheel locked up. The car had died. I checked all my fluids, they were ok. The engine temp, oil gague, battery...all read ok as well. I had just hit empty about 5 miles or so back. For a while I thought that I might have run out of gas accept it started right up and I also have about 3 gallons in the tank when it hits empty.
1. Is there a chance these problems are related or is it pure coincidence?
Could be the speed cable or the part that goes into the trans. can't think of the name, or the speed gauge went back, i would take a look at the cable...
problem 2
can't help you on that not sure...
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Car 3: 1988 Mustang GT - Mod's
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Rear Mod's Built 8.8" 31 splines, c-clips, 50/50 shocks, 3.90 gears, eaton posi, Engine Mods' Cold air intake..
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So the speedo cable does go to the tranny though? Because when the shop that fixed my tranny did the work, they messed some other things up that I had to go back and have them fix. I'm thinking they possibly didn't put it on right or something when they put the tranny back in.
i had the same problem, pull your speed sesor out and see if the gear is messed up. mine was badly damaged causing the speedo to stop working
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89 hatch lx four inch cowl hood.
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Since you were having tranny work done, first thing I would do is crawl under and see if the cable is secured properly at the transmission, or if they may have crimped or bent it in any way. Start with the simple stuff.
If they removed your tranny to work on it, they did have to disconnect that spedo cable, so double check to make sure it was put back properly!
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Since you were having tranny work done, first thing I would do is crawl under and see if the cable is secured properly at the transmission, or if they may have crimped or bent it in any way. Start with the simple stuff.
If they removed your tranny to work on it, they did have to disconnect that spedo cable, so double check to make sure it was put back properly!
Alright, I'll give that a try.
Also, with the random shutting off part. Could this be a bad fuel pump?
I took the car to the gas station to fill up to be sure I wasnt out of gas. On the way there it died once, then twice on the way back. If the pump was going bad, would the car start up right away after it had died?
Also, with the random shutting off part. Could this be a bad fuel pump?
I took the car to the gas station to fill up to be sure I wasnt out of gas. On the way there it died once, then twice on the way back. If the pump was going bad, would the car start up right away after it had died?
That sounds like the TFI module.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
It can only be a few things. First, check the speedometer cable housing that runs from the firewall. It will run down the left side of your engine, next to the headers, connecting to the body nearby the strut tower, then underneath your vehicle, and connecting into your transmission.
If the same problem happened to your car that did mine, the speedometer cable housing melted onto the Speedometer Cable, causing it to fully lock up. If that's the case, you might want to check the removeable speedometer gear that is inside the transmission because you might have stripped that out to...
Problem 2:
If you can hear the fuel pump engaging in the rear, it's not that. Not 100% certain what it could be, though.
It seems like, when I'm slowing or stopping, the RPM's drop really low, like below 1k and i can hear the car giving itself a little gas to bouce back up to around 1K. It seems to do this continuously when I'm stopped...Occasionally it doesnt give gas fast enough and it dies.
If I drive around and just give it a little gas when I'm at the stop light it never dies on me.
It seems like, when I'm slowing or stopping, the RPM's drop really low, like below 1k and i can hear the car giving itself a little gas to bouce back up to around 1K. It seems to do this continuously when I'm stopped...Occasionally it doesnt give gas fast enough and it dies.
If I drive around and just give it a little gas when I'm at the stop light it never dies on me.
Any idication of what the problem might be?
Mine has the bouncy idle too, especially if the AC is on...
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It seems like, when I'm slowing or stopping, the RPM's drop really low, like below 1k and i can hear the car giving itself a little gas to bouce back up to around 1K. It seems to do this continuously when I'm stopped...Occasionally it doesnt give gas fast enough and it dies.
If I drive around and just give it a little gas when I'm at the stop light it never dies on me.
Any idication of what the problem might be?
Sounds like maybe the IAC.
A good tuneup, adequate fuel pressure, a good IAC and clean passages, and sufficient charging voltage are all needed to ensure a steady idle.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Sounds like maybe the IAC.
A good tuneup, adequate fuel pressure, a good IAC and clean passages, and sufficient charging voltage are all needed to ensure a steady idle.
I am a firm believer in preventative maintanance
What will a new one cost me? Where should I get it?
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No, I had my uncle's mechanic friend look at it. Everything is hooked up and secure. He thinks its probably something internal...
On another note, meangreen you said "sufficient charging voltage are all needed to ensure a steady idle." I remember last time I took my car in to the shop they did all of these tests. One thing I remember them telling me was that I should get the battery replaced because something was low. I don't remember exactly what it was but I think they said there was a low "something" voltage. Would the charging voltage on its own be the cause of the poor idle?
I also came across http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php which seems to be a likely solution. I was just wondering, before I endevour to attempt this (with my miniscule knowledge of cars) is there anything special I should know that isnt mentioned in the guide? Any tricks or tips.
No, I had my uncle's mechanic friend look at it. Everything is hooked up and secure. He thinks its probably something internal...
On another note, meangreen you said "sufficient charging voltage are all needed to ensure a steady idle." I remember last time I took my car in to the shop they did all of these tests. One thing I remember them telling me was that I should get the battery replaced because something was low. I don't remember exactly what it was but I think they said there was a low "something" voltage. Would the charging voltage on its own be the cause of the poor idle?
I also came across http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php which seems to be a likely solution. I was just wondering, before I endevour to attempt this (with my miniscule knowledge of cars) is there anything special I should know that isnt mentioned in the guide? Any tricks or tips.
Cleaning the IAC is pretty straight forward, you should not have too much of a problem with it. I have heard though that cleaning the IAC is just a band-aid for the problem, and it will get gummed up again in a short period of time. So if you clean it out and it fixes your problem and then a short time later you start to have the same problem again, I would just replace it instead of cleaning it on a regular basis.
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1988 Mustang GT - 331, hand ported Twisted Wedge heads, TFS Stage 2 cam, R-Series intake, 1 3/4 long tubes, dual 3" exhaust, tko 600, Zex 100 shot, ect.
357 rwhp/ 361 rwtq on motor
428 rwhp/ 484 rwtq on 100 shot
12.48 @ 111 mph on motor (2200ft + elevation)
11.7 @ 120 mph on 100 shot (2200ft + elevation)
Speedometer Died 
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