so im changing my fourth starter solenoid in 2 months
i need help, why do i need to keep changing these things. i have an msd 6al and blaster coil, a powermaster alt. im sick of buying them. all the electrical is fine, i think.
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89 hatch lx four inch cowl hood.
trick flow intake, bbk 80mm tb, bbk cai, grannatteli maf, b cam, electric water pump, aluminum radiator, electric fan, pulleys, a/c and p/s delete, bbk long tubes, H pipe, 40 series flows, msd 6al, ford racing 9mm wires, msd cap and rotor.
t-5 tranny, alum. drive shaft, tubular control arms, air ride launch kit, bbk lowering springs, weld drag lites, subframes
florida 5.0 guage cluster w/ autometer carbon guages, race buckets, pro 5.0 shorty
Have you upgraded to the smaller later-model starter? If so, It uses a different wiring scheme.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
how should i wire it? im pretty sure it is a newer starter.
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89 hatch lx four inch cowl hood.
trick flow intake, bbk 80mm tb, bbk cai, grannatteli maf, b cam, electric water pump, aluminum radiator, electric fan, pulleys, a/c and p/s delete, bbk long tubes, H pipe, 40 series flows, msd 6al, ford racing 9mm wires, msd cap and rotor.
t-5 tranny, alum. drive shaft, tubular control arms, air ride launch kit, bbk lowering springs, weld drag lites, subframes
florida 5.0 guage cluster w/ autometer carbon guages, race buckets, pro 5.0 shorty
My '92 has the high torque starter (I think from the factory). You can tell if you have the high torque one, if the starter motor itself has a big cylinderical solenoid on it.
The way mine is wired, is it has a fairly thick wire running from the starter post on the small fender-apron solenoid, to the big one on the starter itself. It connects to the big solenoid with a spade terminal, and, of course, uses a ring terminal up at the small solenoid.
Then, it has a fat (battery cable sized) cable from the battery cable post on the fender-apron solenoid, which powers the actual starter motor. So, you want the big threaded post from the starter connected to the always hot side of the small solenoid. And the spade terminal connected to the switched side of that small solenoid.
So, what happens, is you turn the key, and the small solenoid energizes the big solenoid, which completes the circuit for the starter motor.
The cable to the starter motor is always hot, like on a gm product.
If you have the old-style big starter motor, it just runs off of the fat cable, which goes to the starter (switched side) post on the small solenoid. And it's burning up solenoids, you might need a new starter cable.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
i would believe that you mit have a short in 1 or both of the cables. if one or the other cables becomes hot when you strating the car, you have a short that will fye the solenoid. sometimes it the small things we forget. if thats the problem go to a bigger gauge wire then factory.
so im changing my fourth starter solenoid in 2 months 
