yes it is, but to swap a cam, you need to remove the intake, pull the valvetrain, yank the timing cover, and then get enough room to put the cam in from the front. A new cam is $200, so I don't really see the point of buying a used one, and since you have to go through a couple of days of labor (1 if you have done this before) and there is nothing bad with a stock cam. I would look at heads or an intake first
I agree with Twister. It is alot of work to put a cam in. The gain from just a cam with everything else being stock is minimal. But it will make your car sound super cool. The "B" Cam has a decent lope to it. You will lose some bottom end torque, and pick up some HP at the top end. If your car is an automatic I definately would do something else first. You need a stall convertor before you do a cam swap really. That's the reason I've got an "E" cam. I got my cam before my stall, and so I got a really small cam in comparison to other aftermarket cams available. Now that I've done intake and heads, I've lost even more bottom end torque, and need a bigger stall still. Those will be my next upgrade. A 3500 stall and a bigger cam. JMO.
Definitely do heads first, or do heads/intake/cam at the same time. I really do not recommend the alphabet cams. There are better off the shelf cams out there.
I've heard that the Motorsport cams aren't that great myself. My wife actually got me my cam for X-Mas one year. My buddy recommended that that is the one she should get. I planned on going with a small cam and he knew that, but he didn't know what would be a good cam to get. But some cam is better than no cam. I'm probably going to get a custom grind next. I just like the idea of having a cam tailored to your application.
it wouldnt be worth the cost to put in the b cam with a mostly stock engine. the b cam wont give you that much power anyway, you can get a lot of power from the stock cam anyway, look at the real street racers...theyre running in the mid 10's with the stock cam(they have nonported aftermarket heads and intake and all the typicall mods plus a "street" supercharger, but still...theyre going 10's with the stock cam!!)
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1992 GT......
AOD to T-5 conversion, 3.73's, Zoom HD clutch, ported E7's, cut open and ported factory intake, ported stock throttle body, subframe connectors, 1.5" headers, o/r h-pipe, flowmaster cat back, MAC air tube, K&N conical filter, homemade heat sheild for filter, homemade cold air kit, MSD coil, 9mm plug wires, advanced base timing to 12 degrees, Chrome Pony rims, 235/55/r16 Cooper Cobras..... definately more to come!! ALL of this was done by myself....including the porting and gea
When i had my motor built they told me they wouldn't put a b-303 cam in it. They made since though it was designed 5 years ago.Go with a newer cam from comp lunati etc technolgy has increased dramaticly over the past five years, you would gain more power with a intake than a cam and its much easier build your motor all at once works much better.
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91 5.0 lx conv brand new cobra shortblock with 500/510 lunati ported gt-40p heads with 1.94 1.60 t-5, 3.73, aluminum driveshaft,all bolt-ons, stock from intake up jamex 2inch drop and new paint ran outta money.lol
B303 Cam? 
The "B" Cam has a decent lope to it. You will lose some bottom end torque, and pick up some HP at the top end. If your car is an automatic I definately would do something else first. You need a stall convertor before you do a cam swap really. That's the reason I've got an "E" cam. I got my cam before my stall, and so I got a really small cam in comparison to other aftermarket cams available. Now that I've done intake and heads, I've lost even more bottom end torque, and need a bigger stall still. Those will be my next upgrade. A 3500 stall and a bigger cam. JMO.
