I am going to have some cash flow and i have got some questions. I own a 1993 Mustang GT with headers and exhaust and i was wondering. Should i go with a set of AFR heads with a monsterous cam. OR should i get a set of weld rims 15x10.5 on back and 15x5s up in front? The car is a dialy driver and has no major mods in it. and if i go with the heads and cam should I replace anything else in the engine while i am down there? I got about 100,000 miles in the car and runs like a dream.
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1993 Fox GT- BBK shorty Headers, Custom 2.5 exhaust ,X pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with dumps. 90 amp alternator, 2inch radiator, new rack and pinion, LX Tail Lights, Centerforce DF clutch.
1972 Mach1 351c 1/4 12.5
Most of the guys are probably say go with the speed parts. AFR's are sweet but there is more in my opinion. If your fuel system and intake are stock, you will not realize the full benefit of such a mod. While WELD makes the classic wheel for Fox bodies, wheels are not a necessity and I kinda prefer the sleeper look. I'm inclined to say wait until you have enough to get the full monte on the intake and fuel system. That way if an emergency comes up you have cash. If no emergency comes up, you have a nice incentive to save until you reach your goal.
wow i thought it would be between the tires and the heads. Ok if I get heads and a cam would i need to replace anything else while i am down there? Would the pistons be alright? Can the engine take the new Hp? And around how much HP would it make with the mods that i currently have with the addition of the AFR heads and an extreme energy cam?
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1993 Fox GT- BBK shorty Headers, Custom 2.5 exhaust ,X pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with dumps. 90 amp alternator, 2inch radiator, new rack and pinion, LX Tail Lights, Centerforce DF clutch.
1972 Mach1 351c 1/4 12.5
If you were to just change heads and cam you will be selling the set up short. The stock EFI intake manifold on these cars will not flow well enough to realize the full potential of your set up. A good set up i have seen alot of that consistantly makes good power numbers is the Cobra/ Gt 40 intake, Afr 165 heads and the E303 cam. Again, on you will need support mods to help this set up run efficiently. If you're going to start jumping into the engine like that, you'll get the best results from adding an aftermarket MAF, a larger throttle body, a high flow fuel pump and your Head/Cam/Intake. Foxes with this set up and a good dyno tune often put down 270+hp to the rear wheels making it an interesting combo. The price can get up there though. If you're doing it yourself you can expect to spend some decent money on this set up.
Heads : $1300 give or take
Intake: $300-$400
Cam: $150+ depending on what type.
It continues haha. I thought of doing this to my old 5.0 but the price added up to around $2500,too rich for a poor college student.
If you want to start making the fox quicker for future mods, throw in some steeper gears and start adding the support mods, that this, throttle body, larger MAF and such, until you've saved enough to finish it off with the Head/Cam/Intake swap!
I currently own a thunderbird 5.0 that went from running 15.6 with stock 3.08 gears to 14.9's running 3:73 gears and better tires . It walks on 5.0 5 speeds with small mods like Cold air intakes and cat backs haha.
You have some very nice classic muscle in your garage. As I'm sure you know, when you upgrade any part of the performance spectrum, something else then becomes your weak link. A set of AFR's and a cam would probably need a better intake, throttle body, bigger injectors, Bigger MAF meter,and a higher flowing fuel pump to realize their full potential. When you get all that installed you may find you run hot. That's when the aluminum radiator and electric fans come into the picture. Now you're running cool but your new package has blown up your T-5 (3rd gear is where it will happen....trust me ....6 t-5's in mine). You go for a Tremec. See where I'm going $$$$$. I'm certainly not trying to turn you against modding because everything I own is modded (hell I even cut up an old K&N and fabricated a filter for my Briggs and Stratton lawnmower. Just don't do it halfway because that's all you have the money for. The cooling system and tranny can wait but do the engine completely. The parts won't disappear while your money is collecting interest. While you wait you may decide to go in a totally different direction. I often see this on Mustang boards. Guys selling high dollar hipo parts because they have a change in direction.
Weld's going bankrupt (cheap imported crap is taking over another industry)
They say American Racing's going to buy their assets. That's a factor,
BUT
you really need to take care of the structure/safety before anything else.
Weather seals keep out the weather.
Don't keep em up and rust will surely follow.
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Woe to him who builds his palace by unrighteousness,his upper rooms by injustice,making his countrymen work for nothing...Does it make you a king to have more and more cedar?Did not your father have food and drink?He did what was right and just,so all went well with him. He defended the cause of the poor and needy,and so all went well...But your eyes and your heart are set only on dishonest gain,on shedding innocent blood and on oppression and extortion. Jer 22:13, 15-17
DANG!...Water is coming in through the front window. But i will buy a pack of bubble tape and fix that later. I am in urgent need of tires. SO while i am there I want to get the weld wheels. I will have to put out the heads untill next time. How thin is to thin up in front? And what back spacing should i go with if i am getting 15x10 in back?
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1993 Fox GT- BBK shorty Headers, Custom 2.5 exhaust ,X pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with dumps. 90 amp alternator, 2inch radiator, new rack and pinion, LX Tail Lights, Centerforce DF clutch.
1972 Mach1 351c 1/4 12.5
Juuuust my opinion-but being a daily driver-fix what's wrong first.Stay safe and comfortable.Maybe buy a cheap set of new tires(since you mentioned you need them) fix the a/c,especially since you are in Tx,and fix the leaks --when you save or get another influx of cash,then mod/upgrade.Doing on a budget I am buying parts as I can,and when I get a "package"-it goes on the car...But you have to drive it every day-keep it safe(so you and the car are around to mod)and comfortable(so you don't get frustrated and tired of it and sell it b4 you do the other things)...again,just my opinion
Juuuust my opinion-but being a daily driver-fix what's wrong first.Stay safe and comfortable.Maybe buy a cheap set of new tires(since you mentioned you need them) fix the a/c,especially since you are in Tx,and fix the leaks --when you save or get another influx of cash,then mod/upgrade.Doing on a budget I am buying parts as I can,and when I get a "package"-it goes on the car...But you have to drive it every day-keep it safe(so you and the car are around to mod)and comfortable(so you don't get frustrated and tired of it and sell it b4 you do the other things)...again,just my opinion
What do you mean by that? Is having aluminum heads dangerous? I just want a killer street/strip car. I don't mind not having A/C. Is having aluminum heads, and a heavy cam a bad idea for a daily driver? If so why?
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1993 Fox GT- BBK shorty Headers, Custom 2.5 exhaust ,X pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with dumps. 90 amp alternator, 2inch radiator, new rack and pinion, LX Tail Lights, Centerforce DF clutch.
1972 Mach1 351c 1/4 12.5
Im pretty sure that what everyone is sayin is do the things you NEED first and do the things you WANT after everying else is in running order. Even if your car has 500hp, its not gonna go anywhere fast if half of it is falling apart.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
No, i didnt mean it was falling apart, I just was explaining. Its just you should fix things that need replacing before you start modding it. Do things out of necessity first.
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1993 GT Hatch: 306 with Twisted Wedge heads,TFS stage one cam,TFS upper/lower intake, 190lph fuel pump, 30lb injectors, 70mm TB/EGR plate, Granatelli MAF= now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
Marine Detachment, Keesler AFB, Biloxi MS
OOORAAHH!!!
A set of AFR's and a cam would probably need a better intake, throttle body, bigger injectors, Bigger MAF meter,and a higher flowing fuel pump to realize their full potential.
You are totally right about this, but I want to say that AFR's and a cam would still increase your performance, but you might be dissapointed until you did the rest of those mods. I say any mustang that will eventually get modded should start with a set of sub-frame connectors, higher gear ratio out back, good tires and hood pins.
remember that you have to be careful with what size cam you go with, a stock short block can't go to big without having the valves hit the pistons. I would do what you need to do first and use the money left over to start buying everything you need to do the heads/cam/intake correctly. Just get a goal and find out what all the parts are that are needed to make it all work right then start looking around for the parts, you would be surprised at some of the deals you can find when you already know what your are looking for.
I was wondering... 
. It walks on 5.0 5 speeds with small mods like Cold air intakes and cat backs haha. 
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now using Pro-M, Lakewood upper/lower control arms, powertrax diff, subframe connectors, Eibach springs, aluminum ds, t56 trans, Eibach swaybars, Flowtech LT's, Magnaflow CB, 17x10.5 deep dish cobras in rear, 17x9 cobras in front.
