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Old 10-28-2006   #1 (permalink)
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Default Building a nice 302

I'm in the process of building a sweet 302 for my 86 convertable. I got the bottom end done with (at least picked out waiting for money), but now I need to look into the top end.

I have what I believe is a 1968 block (that's what the machine shop told me). new pistons .020 over (hypereutic piston, fell short on cash for the forged) rings, bearings, rods, etc.

I was wondering where I could get new main caps from.

anyway. the heads I got with the engine have been ported (1.85 exhaust, 2.02 intake). I can't go with solid roller lifter, but I was thinking about hydraulic rollers, would they fit in the block (solid rollers don't fit in pre 82-ish? blocks.) I'm looking for a red line as high as possible (7ish, I'd like 8 but it's not a good idea without a boss 302 and solid rollers).

I would also like to know what exactly I should look for in a cam, flat tappet, hydraulic tappet, hydraulic roller, etc. I had my eyes on a couple cams with int/exhaust duration close to 295/306. ruff RPM ranges I got were 3500 to about 7000 ish. what do you guys suggest.

now for valves, I seam to only be able to find stainless steel valves. I know you can get titanium valves, and I was wonder if it was worth it, if I should bother.

also, I know there are different type of exhaust valve, I think one type has nitride in them, or made of them, I dunno. what would be the best choice of exhaust and intake valves?

New titanium valve retainers and locks, but what about springs? I think I'm looking at 400lbs/inch or 450lbs/inch. what do you guys recommend? am I going overboard with those numbers?

I also plan on going with new rockers 1.7:1 ratio, if they clear the pistons, I have to check.

chromoly push rods good? or is there something else I should get, like titanium?

Yes I know I seem to be looking at all these parts for the valvetrain and such, and I don't even have a 4 bolt main, or the ability for a solid roller cam, but I figure better safe then sorry.

by the way, the mustang will be my weekend/track car. trying to get into auto cross (my friend introduced me to it) driving mustang with the stock 6 in it to get a hang of it before I go overboard and play with power .

give me suggestions guys, anything else you might know that I would need to know, like cam timing (retarding and advancing for peak HP in RPM curve???).

thanks in advance
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Old 10-28-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Man, that's a lot of questions for 1 post. I can answer 1 of them. There are kits to put hydraulic rollers in the 62-87 302 blocks. Google edelbrock #97453 Just make sure you change the axle ratio in your diff to utilize the high-RPM power.

Good luck.
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Old 10-28-2006   #3 (permalink)
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For you question I was wondering where I could get new main caps from. Summit Racing, Jegs, your autoparts store should have the m too..
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Old 10-28-2006   #4 (permalink)
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If you're looking for high RPM's, the hyperutectic pistons are better than forged. They're lighter and unless you plan on boosting or juicing the motor, will be just fine. Titanium exhaust valves are super expensive so unless you're building a motor you plan on making oodles of money with, not worth it. A solid roller lifter has to be adjusted quite frequently and will give you more RPM's, but also a lot more maintenance. Go for a hydraulic roller setup and you should be just fine. Don't get too crazy on the cam overlap numbers. An autocross car needs a broad powerband, something you won't get with tons of overlap. I don't know what kinds of spring rates you need, I haven't gotten that far with my research on my own project yet. Stainless or chom-moly pushrods will be perfectly fine for what you need. Now what about your crankshaft, is it forged steel, cast iron, cast steel or nodular iron? That will be a HUGE factor in determing RPM limits along with valve spring rates and float.
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Old 10-30-2006   #5 (permalink)
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I'm looking at two different cranks right now, one's cast steel and the other forged steel. depending upon how much money I have to spend, and how much it's worth, I'd like to go with forged. I know they're lighter and stronger, but I'm not totally sure of the advantages.
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Old 11-01-2006   #6 (permalink)
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A friend of mine has a similar weight car with weight distribution very close to the same as my mustang, he's using 455 in the front and 450lbs. in the rear for spring rate.
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