1985 CV Wagon, 302, 5.0L.
(Yea, it's a Crown Vic... but I need 302 expertise!)
SYMPTOM:
Stalls after 2 - 5 minutes from cold start. Sometimes starts after 5-15 minutes cooldown.
EEC IV Codes (10/21/2002)
=========================
NOTE:
- prior to code test, engine ran very rough for about 2 minutes before stalling. "rotten egg" sulfur smell from exhaust.
HARD FAULTS
23 -> Throttle sensor out of range or throttle set too high
88 -> Electronic ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault
MEMORY FAULTS
14 -> Ignition pickup was erratic
18 -> Ignition TACH signal erratic [ appeared after replacing ballast resistor w/ fusible link]
PARTS RECENTLY REPLACED:
- coolant temp. sensor
- control module (GP Sorensen)
- distributor + stator
- Autolite plugs (.05 gap) + wires
- throttle position sensor
- replaced failed fusible link (near coil harness)
whenever you say it turns on after 15 minutes of cool down, how hard of a start is it compared to when it's cold? after your car dies , have you checked for spark?
fuel filter good? if you disconnect the vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator and plug it, does it make a difference?
how high do your temps get? have any mods (for a vic i dunno) been done?
after it stalls, if you put the key down , then up, can you hear the fuel pump whine ?
i would also check the condition of rotor and cap.
whenever you say it turns on after 15 minutes of cool down, how hard of a start is it compared to when it's cold? after your car dies , have you checked for spark?
Now, it won't restart at all after cooldown. No spark from coil when dead like this.
Quote:
fuel filter good? if you disconnect the vacuum from the fuel pressure regulator and plug it, does it make a difference?
The fuel filter was replaced. Would a vacuum problem stop spark at the coil?
Quote:
how high do your temps get? have any mods (for a vic i dunno) been done?
don't have a temp gauge. no mods.
Quote:
after it stalls, if you put the key down , then up, can you hear the fuel pump whine?
Yes. And I get 1 spark from the coil. Also 1 spark when key is turned off. Just no spark during cranking.
Quote:
i would also check the condition of rotor and cap.
both are brand new and in good condition.
I'm getting codes 23 and 88, and memory code 14. 23 means a problem with the TPS, but I've tested the TPS and it's fine.
I've already tried 3 ignition modules (in case it was an overheating problem).
All that's left is the ECC. I hope to get a new computer this week.
Black,79 Mustang mostly carbon fiber/kevlar body, M-2300-k brake kit, full roll cage, maximum motorsport suspension, custom geared 6 speed, 2 inch rear fender flares, 1 inch front, motor being built (no eta). Looks like the Mad Max interseptor and weighs about 1800lbs w/o motor (450hp 351w installed to move the car around)
Black, 82 Capri RS 5.0L, B303, 1.7 rockers, World 180 heads, +150hp N.O.S, Turbo coupe rear end, T-56(tremec tko would be beter), 80 cobra nose
Originally posted by Mad Max Tried replacing the coil?
Coil was replaced. No effect.
Upon further reflection...
Prior to August vacation:
1) my car started stalling
2) we replaced the original MotorCraft module with a GP Sorensen
3) car ran, but was running rough
I decided to take a rental car on vacation.
Upon returning from vacation:
4a) mechanic replaced TPS to try to fix roughness (no effect)
4b) mechanic found that the #4 plug was bad
5) the car runs smooth now, but stalls.
I'm going to test the TPS voltage more precisely tomorrow. Last week, it tested at 1 volt (no throttle) - 5 volts (full throttle).
I'd replace the pickup coil in the distributor next. Here is a diagram of part of the 81-85 Duraspark ignition wiring...........
__________________
Tom Moss
88 GT 5spd Vert 3:73s, Flowmaster catbacks, stock cam +4°, GT40P heads & 1.7 rockers, Jet-Hot coated MAC P headers, 97 Explorer intake, 65mm TB and 19# Explorer injectors. 277RWHP/330RWTQ