i have fluid leaking out of the ends of the rack and pinion. Would I have to replace to whole rack and pinion? If so, where is a good place to get one and what kind? any help will be appreciated.
WHOA hey man same thing happend to me....I replaced the whole thing. The wheel firms up nice after that. I went to Autozone and bought one with a life time warrenty and havent had any problems.
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1993 Fox GT- BBK shorty Headers, Custom 2.5 exhaust ,X pipe, Flowmaster 2 chamber mufflers with dumps. 90 amp alternator, 2inch radiator, new rack and pinion, LX Tail Lights, Centerforce DF clutch.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1972 Mach1 351c 1/4 12.5
Replace the whole thing.. I'm thinking about going to a manual rack because mine leaks a little too.. You can shave off quite a few pounds by going with a manual rack. You loose the pump and all the lines, plus loose the drag of turning the PS pump.. Extra HP.. Flaming River makes a complete kit. Make sure you get the shaft.
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90 GT Vert- Flowmasters, BBK Cold , 9MM FR Wires MSD 6A Ignition, MSD Blaster, B+M shifter..3.73's in Rear. BBK Equal Length Shorty Headers. BBK off road X pipe.70mm TB, Alum FW. Alum DS. Upgraded Rebuilt T-5 w/295first. 93 cobra wheels w/nits. Elec Fan. AP pulley. Ford Racing Mini Starter. Energy Suspension Motor/Trans mounts. Trick Flow Intake, 30lb injectors and MAF, Steeda Alum Control Arms,Steeda Sway Bars, Steeda Sport Springs, Complete rear disc from 93 Cobra,
ehh... if you have never driven a car without P/S, you may want to stick with your power steering... ford's power steering is nice. its power ASSISTED, which means you still do alot of the work, like turning the wheel all the way back and whatnot. its not like GM where the car basically drives itself...
power steering is convenient, and makes driving easier... he is right about losing weight, and it does help you feel the road a bit better. but i would stick with P/S.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
yea its really nice at high speeds i agree with you 100%, and now that i think about it, i havn't had to parallel park in about 3 years... i might consider it myself. is it cheaper than P/S??
i feel like if i switch to a 5 speed, and go manual steering, that driving my stang will become tedious. i dont want that
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
Replace the whole thing.. I'm thinking about going to a manual rack because mine leaks a little too.. You can shave off quite a few pounds by going with a manual rack. You loose the pump and all the lines, plus loose the drag of turning the PS pump.. Extra HP.. Flaming River makes a complete kit. Make sure you get the shaft.
And you get rid of a bunch of noise too.
Manual steering can't be that bad. I never fixed my old '82 GT when the PS went out. It took alot of effort to turn at low speeds, (especially when there was a front tire going down) but I could handle it - and I'm kind of a small guy. Power steering that no longer works, is more difficult than straight up manual steering.
I think you'd appreciate manual steering Systronic. Because it sounds like you are into the entire driving experience, and not just straight line acceleration. Manual is alot tighter than even the best PS setup.
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'88 GT convertible, 5 speed, 3:08 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion. Mac shorty headers and H-pipe, Magnaflow catback.
yea man i think youre right. plus once i go manual, i never have to worry about my P/S going bad i think im gonna go for it. it will be nice and easy when i have the motor out to do k-member
what would you recommend? the regular manual rack? or go for the quick ratio..
quick ration sounds nice, 2 1/2 turns lock to lock.. thats quick indeed.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
I'm going to do the QR rack when I do mine.. There is really no down side other then slighty harder to park. Mines in the garage so don't care. No leaks ever, no fluid, no pumps and lines cleans up the engine bay. Gotta be at at least 30 lbs less wieght. Less drag on the motor -not turning the pump--I've seen the Flaming River packages a lot on Ebay, prices are decent
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90 GT Vert- Flowmasters, BBK Cold , 9MM FR Wires MSD 6A Ignition, MSD Blaster, B+M shifter..3.73's in Rear. BBK Equal Length Shorty Headers. BBK off road X pipe.70mm TB, Alum FW. Alum DS. Upgraded Rebuilt T-5 w/295first. 93 cobra wheels w/nits. Elec Fan. AP pulley. Ford Racing Mini Starter. Energy Suspension Motor/Trans mounts. Trick Flow Intake, 30lb injectors and MAF, Steeda Alum Control Arms,Steeda Sway Bars, Steeda Sport Springs, Complete rear disc from 93 Cobra,
yea i was checking them out
i think when i do my k-member those will go in too. ive got alot to spend this winter lol.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit