Hello, I am new to the site and love it. Would like some feedback on a decision I have been rolling around. I am going to build a 306 with TFS twisted wedge heads, and stage 1 cam, 9.5-10:1cr. (92 GT 5-sp) Now should I save some dough and go with a conventional intake and carb or go for the gusto with the EFI? I reckon the carb route will save me about $1000. Does anyone run a setup like this?? Would it be foolish?? Please relay your opinions to me. Thx
I am running TW heads stage 1 cam and TF intake on my 88.
Are you currently set up for carb?
After I did the 88 I swore I would not do another EFI, it is more expensive and more of a pain, but in the Canadian winters it might be easier. Is it you daily driver?
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So , let me get this straight…..your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
Change…..it’s what is left after taxes.
- Shaken....Not Stirred 2003 Mach I Auto Torch Red - Sold
-1988 Ford Mustang GT Convertible, 331 Trick Flow Stroker with a Tremec 3550....oh yea and a 1.6 liter V-TECH motor to work the convertible top.
- 1966 Inline 6……..the pile of parts car!
You will make more power with the carb set up. If you live in a warm climate most of the year the carb will be fine. Colder temperatures tend to make the carb set up a little harder to start.
You should research and get more input for the size, and type of carb to use if you go with that setup. A 600 or 650 speed demon would be my first choice. That may depend on your intake. A good duel plain intake is the typical setup.
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
the nice thing about the EFI is its tunability... on that same note, you HAVE to tune it when you add certain engine mods...
i prefer the EFI myself, but if i find that the MAF conversion is too complicated, i might just carb it myself.
if you KNOW carbs, and are comfy with them, and its what you want, i say go for it.
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1965 Mustang Coupe Project: 1965 Mustang Inline 6 (For Now) Coupe, New Floors, New Quarters | Ford 9 Inch Rear, 11" Rear Disc Brakes, 3.50:1 Gears | Control Freak Front U/L Control Arms, Global West Adj. Strut Rods | KYB Gas-A-Justs, Grab-A-Trak 620 Coils & Mid-Eye 5-Leafs | Global West Tubular Subframe Connectors | Addco 1-1/8 Front Swaybar Kit
My choice was one of expense, once you change injector, then you change the mass air sensor, and yes it needs to be tuned.
Even with a adjustable fuel regulator my car runs real rich with a ruff idle, but that’s not because of the cam, it’s the tune. I have avoided getting a tune because I’m not done upgrading so why waste good money for a computer tune when I will be changing the setup at a future date.
So if I do another build it wont be EFI.
And I believe I have twisted an axle with my combination. The previous owner was supposed to of put 355 in the rear end and when I tried to check it using the spin the wheel count the rotations of the drive shaft we discovered my rear wheels don’t spin freely……..so one more upgrade I will have to perform……
Also go with the stage 2 cam, I wish I would of went a little more aggressive when I did my built but I was a weenie and wanted derivability, I later found from experience that the stage 2 is very streetable……
__________________
So , let me get this straight…..your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?
Change…..it’s what is left after taxes.
- Shaken....Not Stirred 2003 Mach I Auto Torch Red - Sold
-1988 Ford Mustang GT Convertible, 331 Trick Flow Stroker with a Tremec 3550....oh yea and a 1.6 liter V-TECH motor to work the convertible top.
- 1966 Inline 6……..the pile of parts car!
Go with Carb or stick with EFI 
