do you have to change out driveshafts, and what all parts is needed. i know computer and trans, what else
Engine block-to-tranny/bell spacer plate, flywheel & fasteners, clutch kit & pilot bearing, bellhousing, transmission, clutch pedal, pedal shaft, cable & quadrant kit(not sure about pedal support and brake pedal), shifter bezal plate for the console, and a manual O2 sensor harness - the tranny wiring is a part of it. Driveshaft and starter should work. The best way to make it a factory-like install, is to find a whole manual donor car, and get all of the wiring from it, including the clutch pedal switch, and wiring, and the computer harness. But you can certainly run with just swapping the hard mechanicals.
You can leave the auto computer in, and run with it. But if you choose to run a manual 'puter, you should leave the neutral switch circuit disconnected, or better yet, rewire it. The auto grounds to the car, while the manual grounds via the computer - manual 'puters have been known to fry, in auto cars.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
wow that sounds like a couple good saturdays work. I guess now i just have to find a donor. The 4 banger model doesn't use the T-5 as well does it because i think my local wrecking yard has one.
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1992 Mustang 5.0 LX, 80k miles, all stock for now....
wow that sounds like a couple good saturdays work. I guess now i just have to find a donor. The 4 banger model doesn't use the T-5 as well does it because i think my local wrecking yard has one.
The 4 banger unit isn't as strong, and requires a different pilot bearing. But that car would be good for the pedal assembly, and the wiring to the clutch pedal(should you choose to do the full electronic portion of the swap). Grab the plate which surrounds the shifter, from the console too. You can paint it if it's a different color. Grab the shifter too, just in case the tranny you get doesn't have one. The bellhousing will not work. And the clutch cable is too short, but would work in a pinch - I used one on my old '82 GT.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
cool thanks for reply. u said something about rewire neutral switch. how
I'm not sure, but I think it has to do with the harness to the computer itself.
You can just leave the neutral switch disconnected, to avoid the problem, but you will have to manually close the circuit with a jumper wire, to pull the Key On Engine Running codes. And again, this is only if you use a manual computer.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
86 5.o auto to manual conversion 
