basic story, changing valve covers, while putting new covers on, one of the bolts snapped off about half way through, so im left with the head of a bolt and the other half of the bolt stuck in my heads. i weary of drilling it out so i figured i'd ask for some help befor i break out good ol' dewalt.
basically asking if anyone has a better idea to getting a headless bolt out besides drilling the center nd all that cool jazz. PLEASE any help would be appriciated, im not having a swell week so far ... Thanks Guys nd Gals
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White 1991 GT Convertible - 1993 Cobra Motor Swap (363rwhp)
Black 2004 SVT Cobra - Chip n Tune w/ Goodies (488rwhp)
Green 1994 Explorer - Daily Driver, Ol' Faithful (317,000mi)
If you broke the bolt by tightening it, a left handed drill bit may pull it out. Otherwise you may find yourself using an easy out. Either way,just try not to ruin the original threaads. Good luck.
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'92 LX Coupe 5.0, Stock Ported Intake & Heads, C & L CAI, BBK 75 MM T/B, 24# Injectors, Lunatti Cam, Hedman Long Tube Headers, Flowmasters, Tremec 3550, Spec Stage 2 Clutch, Moser 31 Spline Axles & Spool, UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms, Lakewood Shocks, Auto Meter Gauges, MSD 6AL, Line Lock, Rollcage, Subframe Connectors, Nitrous,Weld Draglites, Drag Radials,4:56 Richmond Gears.
I freaking hate EZ outs... they never work for me.
One trick I learned was to get a center punch and hammer. INstead of using the punch to put a centering hole for a drill, lay it and an angle out near the edge of the bolt. Peck it in to get a bite then try to walk the bolt around by hitting the puch with the hammer (in the counter clockwise direction ofcourse). Do you understand what I am saying here? Basically unsrewing it.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
And if the bolt is seized in there due to corrosion or whatever, soak it down real good, with some PB Blaster spray - that stuff is the shizzy... And always use antiseize compound.
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
Im with kyle f I have done that a couple of times. you got to be patient though
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12:1 compression 347 stroker fully forged internals, Victor Sr 5.0 EFI Intakes, holley 83mm throttle body, prom 83 mm mass air, 30# injectors, holleyfuel pressure regulator,BBK 1 5/8 Longtube headers,bbk offroad X-pipe, 3 inch MAC Catback,Port and Polished Pro-TopLine Aluminum heads with double spring upgrade,Lunati Cam with 1.7 Ford Racing roller rockers,3:73's,8 point Cage,And new to the family 75 shot Zex Kit
i think thats the best idea i have heard so far, i understand exactly what you mean with the center punch, and at this point, i have ALL the patience in the world, ill sit there for hours tapin this thing around to get it to unscrew.
i had a buddy helping me rebuild my motor, and we were going to fire it up last night because he was going on vacation today. and we were all done when we where putting the last few bolts in, this happens. ill post a video of this thing firing up once i actually finish it.
thanks for the help, i did buy an easy out kit though just in case. i REALLY dont want to take the heads off agian
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White 1991 GT Convertible - 1993 Cobra Motor Swap (363rwhp)
Black 2004 SVT Cobra - Chip n Tune w/ Goodies (488rwhp)
Green 1994 Explorer - Daily Driver, Ol' Faithful (317,000mi)
Getting Headless Bolt out of Heads 
... Thanks Guys nd Gals
