Hey stangheads. Now before you all start chewing me out, let me state that I now know your not supposed to mess with that screw that looks like a throttle stop under the throttle body (1988 GT). I felt it was the easiest way to keep the motor from dying out so I could retrieve codes when it had problems at idle.
This all happened in a place far far away, a long time ago. I have since installed a 351 and its been run in short intervals to check for leaks and what not.
Before I set the timing , I was wondering if anyone knows the correct setting for this screw? Im an idiot and I didnt note how many turns I took on it! Right now idle is above 1000 but I dont know if I can even begin to set timing until this is set correctly.
Thanx for your patience
DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
Well, you could start by backing it all the way off. Adjust the TPS at that point to read around .98V... then set your timing around 10-13*. At this point you should have a stable idle, possibly a little low but you Idle Air Control should open all the way up and compensate for it. Then, bring your screw in... this is where it would be nice to have a scan tool to see the IAC duty cycle, but.... I say bring it to touching, 2 turns, adjust the TPS again... then set your timing where you really want it to be... adjust your screw to set your Idle. Just remember that the IAC motor will be working to stabilize the Idle to. ideally you would be able to read its "counts" and set the Idle stop screw somewhere in the IACs middle range so it can do its job.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
this is where it would be nice to have a scan tool to see the IAC duty cycle, but...
Can you do this on these cars?
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1992 Deep Emerald Green Mustang GT Hatch, 5 speed, 2.73s, Mac fenderwell cold air intake, '93 Cobra MAF, Mac 70mm throttle body & spacer, Explorer intakes, Mac unequal headers & offroad pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 110lph fuel pump, Jet adjustable FPR, MSD Blaster coil, Accel 8mm wires, FRPP aluminum quadrant, UPR firewall adjuster, stock cable, Granatelli upper control arms.
Waiting to go on: Granatelli lower control arms, and GT40 Iron heads!
I don't see why not. The computer reads some kind of feed back from it... does it not. I know the GM TPI and 3.8SFI Engines both do. Oh, the LT1 as well. Not sure about the LS1, and I know my new 3V does... so I am just assuming here, but if you had the proper scan tool you should be able to read some kind of output from it.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates