[5LiterJeff]

Hey all. My car is a 1986 LX that was originally a v-6. I swapped in a 1986 5.0 roller block with E6SE heads and TRW pistons (forged with valve reliefs). The transmission is a C-6 because a buddy of mine had a built one laying around that I picked up dirt cheap. From that same buddy I got a pair of ported 289 hipo cylinder heads (the ones rated factory at 271 hp) that had oversize stainless steel valves (1.90) and exhaust valves put in as well as 3 angle valve job and new springs. The heads look really good. They have studs and guideplates also. I have some crane 1.6 roller rockers to put on these heads.

I recently pulled my E6SE heads and I want to put the 289 heads on as well as longtubes while I got it all apart. My question is with the 86 roller block and roller cam, and the 66 heads that use the guideplates, what pushrods should I go with? I know that if I was using these heads back then I would need some hardened pushrods but I dont know if I can get hardened pushrods for the roller cam. Any help is appreciated.

[FoxChassis]

Buy, rent, borrow, or make a pushrod length checker and use it to tell you the exact length pushrod you will need. Then see if a manufacturer makes such a length already, or if not, have them make a set for you.

Your stack-up tolerances are unique and nobody is going to be able to guess and tell you the length that you need.

To make you own:

Take an old pushrod and cut it in half then cut an additional inch from one of the two pieces. Thread the inside of each end with a #10-24 tap. Use a 2" piece of #10-24 threaded rod to put it back together. Adjust the push rod length to the correct size by twisting the two halves together.

[mmb617]

If you don't want to make one Summit has push rod length checkers for $11.95. I bought one, it's well made and easy to use. They also sell a variety of lengths of hardened push rods for use with guide plates. If none of the off the shelf sizes are suitable, you can order custom sizes from a number of sources.

[shanemsink]

You should not just join the pieces together. They are hollow for oil to reach your rockers and valves.

[FoxChassis]

What?!?!

You don't run the engine with that tool in place.

[shanemsink]

My bad foxchassis.....I thought someone was saying to actually do that to achieve the proper length, and to use them/mod them that way...and use it in the running engine. That would be insane.

[shanemsink]

Would it be possible to use an old telescoping antenna or something? That might work.

[Duff Man!]

sell the hi-po head on e-bay and buy a set of AFR's with the profit

[5.0 in a 66]

Originally Posted by Duff Man!

sell the hi-po head on e-bay and buy a set of AFR's with the profit

Agreed. They are old tech, and worth more to someone with a real K code motor to put them on. Besides, there are no real differences between them and all other 65-67 289 heads other than they are correct for K-codes and therefore rare.

If they weren't so freakin rare, my opinion might be different, I'm building a set of ported and reworked 351W heads to go in my 5.0 for my 66. Anybody who confuses old school with slow on THAT motor will get a nice view of the taillights, and I've not destroyed a valuable set of heads. If those K code heads aren't ported, the ain't nothin performance wise anyway.

[mmb617]

Originally Posted by shanemsink

Would it be possible to use an old telescoping antenna or something? That might work.

It has to be stiff enough to push the valves open while you turn the engine through a cycle, to check for proper geometry. Even with checking springs in place a telescoping antenna won't cut it.

I just went through this on my new engine. Proper push rod length is very important, buy a checker, it's 12 bucks well spent.

[shanemsink]

Sounds right. 12 bucks is a small price to pay compared to later regrets.