I just checked my timing and followed the guidance provided by the many posts on timing an EFI 5.0. My car is running fine for the most part but when I got the car the dist bolt was lose. I remove the spout connector and timed it by ear (warmed engine). So, as a follow up...I finally had the time to put the light on it. Before hand, I painted the timing mark on the balancer with a paint pen. The mark seems about 4 inches from the timing bracket's ring or circle. As I turned the dist to bring the mark around...the engine stalls. I adjusted the idle screw to try and compensate to keep it running while trying to bring the mark around.
My questions are:
Could it be that the computer is not recognizing the spout? Could the dist be that far off, but it is running fine...? I haven't run a complete tank of gas yet so I can't determine the fuel mileage. So, when everything is as it should, is 10* when the mark on the balancer is in the ring on the bracket?
Please help...for now I timed it by ear again...and will be driving it the 85 each way commute tomorrow. I filled up yesterday and way about a 1/4 tank left and have traveled about 175 miles. The fuel tanks seems small as it only took 10 gallons to fill when the low fuel light was on. My brother said that my guage or sending unit must be off...that the mustang has more than a 12 gallon tank.
when the engine is running and you unplug spout dose idle change? also timing light on marks spout in. dose timing change? unplug , timing dosent change, if so pcm can control timing, and dose stay at base timing to adj. do you have wire pickup on #1 plug wire ?passenger side front/not trying to insult you/ bigG
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93 LX, 5.0, aod 3.73,bbk shortie headers, x pipe, pypes 2 1/2" all mandrell bent , carbon fiber driveshaft,70mm throttle body,73mm c&l meter, 24lb hr injectors,b303 cam, crane cobra 1.7 r rockers, electric fan, 6g alt,underdrive pullies,00 gt wheels 17x8 1/4 mile time 12.85. @ 108.96 mph .100% italian
I unplugged the spout before starting the car, so I'll have to check for the idle change this evening. I had the timing light on the #1 on the passenger side. The only visible timing mark is on the balancer...a groove. In terms of the timing bracket, I don't see any marks there; just the ring and then a flat edge along the top. The groove is no where near the timing bracket with the spout unplugged...but engine is running smooth.
I didn't get a chance to pull the spout to change for idle change...because all of a sudden...I have a no start. I'm thinking it's the ignition module. I have a 86 parts car, so I'm going out tonight to switch them. My car is 5spd but parts car is auto. I check part numbers on partsamerica and they listed only one. I'm hoping to switch the modules and have a running car where the timing is where it should be and burns the tires off the rim...ok, maybe not that big of a difference. At this point, I'll settle for a running car...lol.
Under hard acceleration does the motor have power? does it ping, or detonate? if not you may want to just upgrade the coil if its still stock.
the spout will adjust timing under acceleration, advancing close to 20 degrees when needed, or pulling it back. if it pings you may be close to determining the problem, for the most part? what issues are you having that leads you to have concern that your timing is off?
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
I don't think anyone has answered his question about where the timing light should line up. There is a straight piece of metal closer to 12 oclock and there is the piece of metal that looks like a big circle close to 10 Oclock. Does the timing mark line up with the Line at 12 Oclock or the Big Circle around Ten Oclock? When I did mine I assumed it was the line closer to 11 or 12 Oclock, not the Big Circle at 9 or 10 Oclock.
This will make a huge difference depending on which line he used.
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Sam Woodson
Harvest, AL 2001 Cobra Convertible, True Blue, 3.55, SCT XCal2 1986 Mustang GT Convertible 5spd - SOLD
Sam...yes that is my question exactly. I swapped the entire distributor from the parts car...and the car started. It is too late to put the light on it because my alarm goes off at 4am. My timing mark, with the spout removed at 900 rpm (smooth idle) was at about the 6 o'clock position. If I rotated the distributor to to move the mark closer to the marks, the engine stalls. I was assuming that the distributer was off by a tooth but it was stalling. Could the ignition module cause such an erratic behavior. And to anwer mustanghelper, the engine (timed by ear not by light) smooth idle, would ping under heavy accel or loading in the higher gears (such as 45-50 5th gear accel).
I didn't check for TDC, I used the rotor as a ref point for the distributor swap. I was late and I just wanted to see if it cleared my no start problem. This evening I'll put on the light and pull the distributor if my timing mark is still at the 6 o'clock position.
the right way to make the swap, is with the rotor pointing at the # 1 plug, that's at the 12 o'clock position. since there is a intake stroke and exhaust stroke on each cylinder it may be off . remove the # plug, have someone crank the motor a touch each time. put your thumb over the spark plug hole. then when you crank it crank it one burst at a time, until you feel the pressure release at the # 1 hole , then the next stroke would be the exhaust.
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DSS 331 stroker, AFR 185 heads, Performer rpm 2 intake, Accufab 75 mm race TB, 30lb injectors, 80 mm Pro-M mass air, Extreme energy cam 266.
Anderson ford power pipe the big one, Ford motor sport shorty headers, Bassani x pipe custom cat back with flows, World class T5, center force duel friction clutch.
1986 5.0 Timing? - Twilight Zone.... 
