Borg Warner T5 shifting problem - Ford Mustang Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002 Thread Starter
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Exclamation Borg Warner T5 shifting problem

I have a 91 GT/5.0 that I converted several years ago from AOD to T5. I am on my second T5 transmission (imagine that). My first T5 had the output bearing go bad causing a serious vibration and a damaged driveshaft yoke. I now have an aluminum Ford Motorsport driveshaft and a 'new' used T5 installed. The T5 was bought off of ebay and was claimed to had the fluid changed yearly and had 70,000 miles on it. It worked perfectly for the first five months after I installed it. Now I am having a serious shifting problem with it. With the cluth pedal depressed to the floor the tranny would not go into 1st gear or reverse, it's as if the clutch cable is not tight enough and the clutch is not disengaging. I tightened the clutch cable (at the tranny) and the problem went away. The tranny shifted just like it should for about one week, and then I was back under the car tightening the cable again. It's been progressively getting worse for the past 3-4 weeks. Finally, one day backing out of the garage my factory so-called self-adjusting clutch quadrant could not hold on any longer. It broke! I replaced it with a non-adjustable aluminum quadrant. Once again, the tranny shifted flawlessly....for three days! I tightened the clutch cable once again, and the tranny shifted ok for a couple of days. Now it's acting up again! The transmission does not make any kind of 'noises.' I had noticed that when the problem would start to reappear (it always comes back gradually) it would go away when the car warmed up. But as the problem gets worse it does not go away at all.

any ideas?
The Ford Motorsport hi-perf clutch, new clutch cable, and new release-bearing were installed about five months ago with the tranny which is filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. I am also using a factory shifter.
The clutch cable also has two nuts, one-locking.....I don't belive it to be loosening itself, but anythings possible
.....and I've lost count of how many times I've adjusted the clutch cable.


Last edited by ford_man123; 11-22-2002 at 12:33 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002
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Is it still a problem when the car is off ?

When it wont let you into gear, is it pushing you out, almost bouncing the shifter away? Or is it completely locking you out?

If you cant get it into gear when the car is off or on, I would think it's a transmission/gear problem. If it can shift just fine with the car off, I would think it's a clutch/clutch cable problem.


89 GT Hatch: Custom M90 Supercharged w/ Ported Trickflow Trackheat Heads, Stage 1 cam, Streetheat lower / Sheet metal upper, Tweecer RT & PLX Wideband, 75mm TB, 1.6 Roller rockers, 3.73s, MSD 6a, Canton 7qt Pan+ Windage tray, 36LB Injectors, 200 amp Alternator, 75mm Pro-Mas MAF, 190lph fuel pump,Spec Stage 1 Clutch,SouthSide LCA's, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Steeda CC Plates / Springs, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, New T5 w/ 2.95 first gear, Underdrive pullies, Zirgo 3300Cfm Elec. Fan, AFCO alum. radiator
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002 Thread Starter
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It is not a problem when the car is off. The shifter does not 'push back' but it you push hard enough on it (while the car is running and not moving) it will move the car forward slightly... It does not grind, just feels like something is in the way. It also hangs up in between gears.

When decelerating to a stop and trying to enter first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, it sometimes will slightly 'grind' and then fall into gear.

Is it possible that the friction plate is getting stuck to the flywheel?
How tight should a clutch cable be? I've been tightening it finger tight and then giving it a few turns with a wrench until the cable is slightly taught.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002
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Quote:
When decelerating to a stop and trying to enter first gear with the clutch pedal depressed, it sometimes will slightly 'grind' and then fall into gear.
Your car has to be going pretty slow for it to let you back into first gear while you are moving, I think that is normal.

Did you check your pilot bearing when you installed the transmission ? Did you get your flywheel grinded smooth ?

I noticed after I put in a new pilot bearing, my clutch wasnt half as hard to push.

Do some gears go in easier at a certain rpm? If so your synchronizers may be shot. My 4th gear synchro is going out on mine. 4th gear will not slip in easily unless it's around 2400 rpm. It will not grind terribly but it makes a noise.

How long has it been since a transmission oil flush? It's easy to do. You will need a tool that clips inside the top hole so you can pump in the new automatic transmission fluid.

89 GT Hatch: Custom M90 Supercharged w/ Ported Trickflow Trackheat Heads, Stage 1 cam, Streetheat lower / Sheet metal upper, Tweecer RT & PLX Wideband, 75mm TB, 1.6 Roller rockers, 3.73s, MSD 6a, Canton 7qt Pan+ Windage tray, 36LB Injectors, 200 amp Alternator, 75mm Pro-Mas MAF, 190lph fuel pump,Spec Stage 1 Clutch,SouthSide LCA's, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Steeda CC Plates / Springs, FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, New T5 w/ 2.95 first gear, Underdrive pullies, Zirgo 3300Cfm Elec. Fan, AFCO alum. radiator
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002
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It's gotta be in the AOD to T5 clutch pedal/cable conversion somewhere. Your symptoms are screaming of a clutch mechanism that isn't getting enough travel....either from a stretched cable, misaligned clutch pedal mounting bracket, or transmission cable mounting bracket.

The last thing I would check is the transmission itself.

Please post what you find.

91 GT convertible AOD B&M shiftkit 3.27
89 LX 5.0 hatchback T5 2.73
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2002
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Ah, sounds like clutch trouble or to be more clear it is not engaging or disengaging smoothly. Have you noticed if the input collar on the trans input shaft is scored or grooved in any way.? This sound like the culprit. I would change it over to a steel input collar unit so the throwout bearing won't hang up on it.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2002 Thread Starter
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Most of the parts were new when installed less than a year ago, including, pilot bearing, release bearing, clutch, clutch cable, and aluminum driveshaft. The only thing used was the tranny. I used synthetic ATF to fill the tranny, but it has never been flushed. The flywheel I installed was resurfaced also...

There were no grooves on the input collar when I installed the T5.. have not checked it recently though.
I inspected the fingers on the clutch last time I adjusted the cable and they appeared to have normal wear.

When the cable is tightened, every gear shifts flawlessly...

Well, I tightened the clutch cable yesterday and I've driven the car twice since and it is working right again. This will be the third adjustment I've made within a week after installing the aluminum clutch quadrant....hopefully the last adjustment I'll need to make.

I'll let you know if it holds up.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-08-2002
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I have had the exact same problem with my Borg Warner t-5, but it was not a conversion. I tried an adjustable cable but kept having to adjust it, then we replaced the clutch, to find the clutch was in good shape. We still put in the new one hoping it would fix it but I still had the problem but didn’t have to adjust as often.
Well then my transmission got stuck in gear and I had to replace it. I found that the pilot bearing was melted…..yes melted and my pressure plate had three worn spots where it got really hot. I had my flywheel resurfaced when I installed the new clutch.
If anyone knows what caused this let us know, don’t want to go through any more t-5s……………………..

So , let me get this straight…..your Honda has 1.6 liters, whereas my bottle of Mountain Dew has 2?

"When a strong man, fully armed, guards his own house, his possessions are safe. -Jesus

-1988 Ford Mustang GT Convertible, 331 Trick Flow Stroker with a Tremec 3550....oh yea and a 1.6 liter V-TECH motor to work the convertible top.
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