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PMAS MAF sensor fail, will any slot style sensor work?

3K views 1 reply 2 participants last post by  Smurf stang 
#1 ·
I have a 1990 Mustang 347 EFI in my 67 Cougar and the mods are in my signature.

Ok, I built my engine and had it running and tuned on a Dyno Jet and an SCT chip burned for it. I took it for a cruise right after the tune and my car drove flawless! No surging idles, didnt have to feather the throttle at lights, clutch engagement was spot on and didnt stumble, the works. A/F was at 12.8 at 30 degrees tune.I love the tune. Its a daily driver btw, not a track monster. I was more concerned with overall drive-ability and reliability then an ET in a 1/4 mile.

I had a few issues that I've since fixed which ultimately cause my MAF sensor to fail.

Issue#1; I only had an H-pipe installed (straight pipes, no mufflers) to my ball and socket Hedman headers with O2 sensors installed. There wasn't anything holding the H-pipes up besides the header flange bolts and nuts. So once that rattled loose it messed with my O2 sensors and made my car stumble and not idle correctly let alone drive. I found this problem and tightened the bolts and the car went back to the way it was after the tune. Perfect.

Issue#2; I drove the car a few miles down the road and showed one of my buddies who is a car enthusiast as well. I turned the engine off to show him the engine and then went to turn it on when I put the key in start I noticed I didnt hear the whine of the pump priming. I tried starting it and nothing... So I looked at the fuse and relay and they were fine. The next thing was the pump. When I pulled it out it almost made me gasp. The spade terminal in the connector that connects to the pump had backed out of the connector and was melting through the connector and the housing on the pump because it was barely making contact. It was literally barely making contact and heating up so much to fuse the connector and pump housing together!!!! SCARY! I fixed that problem with new wires and spade terminals and fuel tank safe JB weld. Lets just say I wont need to take that pump out again until its actually bad.

I barely made it home. And it felt like the power was gone.

I pulled code 66 MAF sensor low voltage. I cleaned the MAF with MAF sensor cleaner and started it again, but it just stumbled and sputtered. MAF sensor is now bad. Mostly because the power surges from the fuel pump and the irregular information from the loose exhaust coming from the O2 sensor.

As a band-aid and experiment I went to the junk yard and got a MAF sensor with housing from a 1997 F-150. I cut the square flange off to fix my air intake. Turned the key and it started right up. The sensor wasn't the kind I originally had, but non-the-less it worked. I had the slot style sensor from PMAS and this was the tube style sensor, but my chip I believe, and correct me if I'm wrong, just reads the airflow and the supplied voltage from the sensor.

I ordered a slot style sensor for a newer mustang and I believe that should work. I only have 30# injectors and no nitro, super charger, or turbo. So I dont think I have to work about pegging out the MAF sensor and a need for lets say the SCT-BA-5000 ($230) or Jet Power Flow ($150). Also, my tuner said that the air intake is on a learning curve, so if I were to add a bigger size intake or filter it would learn it and adjust.

My overall question is; Will the Hitachi MAF0012 Mass Air Flow Sensor (For a 2010 Mustang GT) that I ordered work? Or do I need to order the same exact one from PMAS?

This first picture is the slot style MAF sensor that my PMAS MAF housing takes. The 2nd sensor is the one I pulled from the junk yard from a 1997 F150. The last picture is what my PMAS MAF sensor and housing looks like.
 

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#2 ·
Here is a good little read
Theory: Mass Air Flow « Moates Support
EECTuning.org ? View topic - MAF basics


I know my tuner had a little trouble getting the tables set up as he wasn't familiar with the QH.
You can not just go swapping out MAF's first off.


I had read a lot prior as my friend/tuner wanted to expand his horizons and I became the QH guinea pig
for his shop. The whole transfer table/curve that needs to be set up will set the tone there.


If you think your MAF got fried send it back to ProM and see if they can fix it for a small charge.
 
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