For the love of god somebody please save me from my misery. I now have O2's, new temp switch, new thermostat, new EGR system, K&N air filter, flushed, clean radiator. Car still runs hot, OBD 2's will not read my computer (tried 4 different ones) Please help so I can stop stabbing self in face with bowling ball (figuratively speaking)
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bye bye rice boy
1994 Mustang GT Convertible
HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6
TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors
oh yeah sorry, new fan too. I want to say its the timing, that can be the only other thing. But that is the one thing I can't do myself and no shop will do it, not even the Ford house because the motor runs hot WTF.
__________________
bye bye rice boy
1994 Mustang GT Convertible
HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6
TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors
It does take awhile. When I maintain "city" driving it warms up semi-fast. Freeway driving, the needle stays between the "R" and "M" ( so I don't feel stupid, on the temp gauge it has the word normal written out). city driving it takes a good 15-20min to get up to between the "A" and "L". has not actually ever gone "red". On the freeway at 55mph, I floor it up to 130, and the needle doesn't move. City, at the "A" is when the fan kicks in and brings it down to the middle of "R", and slowly works its way back up to between the "A" and "L". As she warms up, she does seem to feel sluggish. ALso, when the temp gauge is up there and I park the car, WHen I put it in reverse (auto) the car dies. Not every time, sometimes it will just almost stall if that makes sense. This only happens when the car is "hot". I am completely lost here and have no idea. If you can help me out with this you will be my new best friend
__________________
bye bye rice boy
1994 Mustang GT Convertible
HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6
TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors
is your fan blowing on both speed settings? they have a high and low,,, iv'e got this same problem right now and i think mines due to a bad ccrm. my fan is only kicking on on its low setting.
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94' vert with polished bomz cai, magnaflow high flow catted x-pipe, flowmaster series 40's, msd blaster coil, 3:73's, 5 speed manual, yellow top optima battery juicing up the stereo system and more hp coming soon!
My car starts to stall in reverse at 200 degrees. Maybe it's only getting to that temp. I had the same problem with the overheating. It was the radiator. Get a bigger mishimoto radiator off ebay. It fixed my problem.
It does take awhile. When I maintain "city" driving it warms up semi-fast. Freeway driving, the needle stays between the "R" and "M" ( so I don't feel stupid, on the temp gauge it has the word normal written out). city driving it takes a good 15-20min to get up to between the "A" and "L". has not actually ever gone "red". On the freeway at 55mph, I floor it up to 130, and the needle doesn't move. City, at the "A" is when the fan kicks in and brings it down to the middle of "R", and slowly works its way back up to between the "A" and "L". As she warms up, she does seem to feel sluggish. ALso, when the temp gauge is up there and I park the car, WHen I put it in reverse (auto) the car dies. Not every time, sometimes it will just almost stall if that makes sense. This only happens when the car is "hot". I am completely lost here and have no idea. If you can help me out with this you will be my new best friend
Firstly, since your gauge stays in the middle on the highway, that's a sign that your radiator is OK and everything else in the cooling system is functioning normally.
Secondly, your fan seems to be able to move enough air to cool the engine down in the city so the fan itself is also OK.
The problem could be one of two things. The stock gauge may be giving you faulty readings so you could start by replacing the sending unit. If the readings don't change, the problem could be the the fan control. The low speed fan should come on when the gauge is on "M" or at worse slightly higher. Yours is kicking in later.
The low speed and high speed fan relays are inside the CCRM. To test the low speed relay, splice into the wire going to pin 14 and connect a jumper to a 12v source. This should activate the low speed fan if the relay is good. To test the high speed relay, splice into the wire going to pin 17 and connect a jumper to ground. This should activate the high speed fan if the relay is good.
If you find that both relays are good, you'll need to invest in an aftermarket fan controller as it is likely that the fan control from your engine computer is defective.
Heat soaking of the ignition module could be the reason why the engine sometimes stalls when its hot.
The condition of the engine can also contribute to the temperature. Is it running overly lean or overly rich? Either can make an engine run hot.
I would do the easy things first, those gauges are notorious for being inaccurate.
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Got a new radiator fan motor, and she stays cold. at 110mph the check engine light still comes on, but she stays cool. new temp switch, and everything else. The radiator fan motor did not kick in on the "low" speed. The new one I assure you does. Just got done driving around for about 2 hours and she never went passed the middle of the "R". About an hour of city driving and about an hour of highway driving. Thanks for the advice guys...
__________________
bye bye rice boy
1994 Mustang GT Convertible
HAD:1969 Sport Roof,2004 Mach 1,2004 Super 6
TKO-600, Fidanza Spec Stage 3 Clutch, FRPP Alluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73's, FRPP 31-Spline axles, Auburn Pro 31-Spline Diff, FRPP upper bushings, FRPP T/A cover, Extended studs, 10-point 'cage,
New Floor-pan with built in sub-frame connectors