well i got a new clutch from Dynamic racing.com. First of all the sent me a cracked disc so i sent it back got the other put it in. Now i have to force it in gear and when i do it will spin my tires like the clutch isnt disengaging all the way. its been about a week i wanted to see if it just breaks in or somthing and no luck, now i can allready hear my throwout bearing i think, a skweeking noise, is their a possiblility that the macanic put it in wrong or did i just get screwed with this clutch?
only when im not pressing it in. he told me he tried to pull the cable back as far as he could and it was still grabbing a little. he doesnt know what else to do
only when im not pressing it in. he told me he tried to pull the cable back as far as he could and it was still grabbing a little. he doesnt know what else to do
Squeaking noise while not pushing the clutch pedal down is classic pilot bearing going bad. Did he change that when he swapped the clutch?
If the clutch isn't releasing all the way, then it is not adjusted properly. There NEEDS to be 1/4" gap between the face of the bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate in order for it to get enough throw to fully release the clutch. From what you descrobe, the bearing is farther away than a 1/4" from the fingers. Is the transmission grinding at all when you try to put it into gear?
Have you checked your cable to see if it was stretched out (bad) or not? If you look up under the dash at the top of the clutch pedal, you'll see the "half moon" shaped plastic adjuster with teeth on it. That's where you do the adjusting at. Remove the fork hole cover on the bell housing (where the cable goes into the bell and clutch fork) and see if you can determine how much gap you have between the bearing and fingers. If it is more than 1/4", you need to adjust the clutch so the bearing gets closer to the fingers BUT NOT TOUCHING.
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
Go with PI heads and quit watching The Fast and the Furious. (thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
Remember, it is almost impossible for anyone, myself included, to diagnose a problem over the internet without seeing the car. My advice is simply that, advice based on years of experience. I don't want you or anyone taking my word as gospel. I am trying to give some direction as to what I think may be happening.
ya, he said the cable wasnt stretched and he did a bunch of adjusting under the dash with that quadrant or whatever. he said he tried everything in the adjusting aspect. so that means the bearing is to far or close? we have to take the tranny out to fix that?
Sounds like the bearing is too far away from the fingers to get proper dis-engagement of the fingers. The only way to tell is to remove the clutch fork cover on the bell housing and look in thru the fork hole opening and see if you can tell how far the face of the bearing is away from the fingers.
Sounds like the mechanic who installed it did do some adjusting, maybe just not enough?
Grinding when shifting is the syncros. When new, the syncro teeth are pointed at the tips of them. Whe they start to wear, they are more rounded. This causes grinding. When the bearing is not fully releasing the disc, then the syncros aren't lining up enough to allow you to shift smoothly into a gear. This is the grinding you are hearing. Enough grinding will eventually lead to you not being able to get it into gear. This will take some time before the extreme happens, so don't go off the deep end yet.
See if you can judge the distance between the bearing and fingers and get back to us.
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
Go with PI heads and quit watching The Fast and the Furious. (thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
Remember, it is almost impossible for anyone, myself included, to diagnose a problem over the internet without seeing the car. My advice is simply that, advice based on years of experience. I don't want you or anyone taking my word as gospel. I am trying to give some direction as to what I think may be happening.
richard seems to know his stuff, i have been grinding 2nd lately when hot rodding the car. how do you adjust the clutch cable for the 94's? Sorry didnt mean to take over the thread but since were on the topic of clutches
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94' vert with polished bomz cai, magnaflow high flow catted x-pipe, flowmaster series 40's, msd blaster coil, 3:73's, 5 speed manual, yellow top optima battery juicing up the stereo system and more hp coming soon!
richard seems to know his stuff, i have been grinding 2nd lately when hot rodding the car. how do you adjust the clutch cable for the 94's? Sorry didnt mean to take over the thread but since were on the topic of clutches
Not real sure on a '94 as I never had one of those body styles but there should be a plastic, half moon shaped, adjusting wheel up under the dash, connected to the clutch pedal.
On the self adjusting ones, you simply use your toe to pull the pedal all the way up and then push it to the floor. Do this over and over until the teeth on the "half moon shaped thingy ma bob" catch and it tightens the clutch.
On my '00GT, I reach up and release the catch on the adjuster and pull it open and then cycle the pedal a few times until it tightens up and I get the "feel" I am use to.
Be sure not to over adjust it and cause the bearing to ride on the fingers of the pressure plate all the time or you will wear it out immediately.
Hopefully another SN95 owner will chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
Go with PI heads and quit watching The Fast and the Furious. (thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
Remember, it is almost impossible for anyone, myself included, to diagnose a problem over the internet without seeing the car. My advice is simply that, advice based on years of experience. I don't want you or anyone taking my word as gospel. I am trying to give some direction as to what I think may be happening.
1995 Mustang GT, Clutch problems 
(thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
