Tunning it with a chip from a dyno tune would be the way to go.
Also make sure you have no vacum leaks before you think it might
be your ecm. A vacum leak will usually cause erratic idle as you described. They are very touchy to any vacum leaks!!
So, if I use a dyno tuner to make a chip, it would be just for the setup I'm running now,right I've read alot about the Tweecer rt, and it is starting to warm up to me. I seem to change my setup alot, and alot of the threads on this forum speak well of it. Would this be a better way? I use our techstream computer, at my job, quite often to help diagnose new cars. So, I'm pretty fimiliar with streaming data screens. Think this would be the way to go? Oh, yeah it doesn't have any vacuum leaks, fixed them first. Melted the emissions vacuum lines. Repaired with new lines.
I did a ton of stuff to my 95GT and it suffered, power wasn't where it should be either. I had a tuner in FL tune it, this was back in 2000, and it ran good at first but the power wasn't there. they tuned it again and same thing. Finally i got the pro-m wiring kit and a 89 A9L computer, did the rewiring and it was like night n day. Tons of power like it was suppose to have and ran perfect. The 94-95 EEC is crap and when you do certain mods, it doesn't want to go outside those perimeters, the 89-93 computers will. I would do the EEC conversion and then dyno tune it.
__________________
1995 Mustang GT-Heavily Modded-Sold 2003 Ford Lightning-Sold 1997 Saleen-5.4 conversion-Sold 2005 Mustang GT-Torch Red-Sold 2003 Mustang Cobra-Oxford White 2003 4Runner V8 Sport Edition 4X4
So, if I use a dyno tuner to make a chip, it would be just for the setup I'm running now,right I've read alot about the Tweecer rt, and it is starting to warm up to me. I seem to change my setup alot, and alot of the threads on this forum speak well of it. Would this be a better way? I use our techstream computer, at my job, quite often to help diagnose new cars. So, I'm pretty fimiliar with streaming data screens. Think this would be the way to go? Oh, yeah it doesn't have any vacuum leaks, fixed them first. Melted the emissions vacuum lines. Repaired with new lines.
If you change mods alot the more a Tw rt will help you adjust for
tunning issues.U seem to know enough computer lingo and about
a month with on and off studying and reading you could get down to fine tunning especially with a wide band hooked up. It all depends what you want,some are turned off by the steep learning curve and rather let a pro do it for $$.
__________________
Gt-40 upper lower intake,BBK75MM,CAI,Lightning maf,30lb inj,TF heads,TF-1 cam,Harlin Sharp roller rockers,Flowmaster exhaust,Bassani X,Aode ,
4.10 gears,PI2700converter.TweecerRt-BE,EA,
V-2
Best 1/4 mile- 13.174 at 104.62 mph/ HCI
best 105.22 mph
Best 1/8 mile -7.91 at 90.3 mph with V2
If you change mods alot the more a Tw rt will help you adjust for
tunning issues.U seem to know enough computer lingo and about
a month with on and off studying and reading you could get down to fine tunning especially with a wide band hooked up. It all depends what you want,some are turned off by the steep learning curve and rather let a pro do it for $$.
Well, I haven't read alot about how to install a wide band A/F sensor. Is this a pretty simple upgrade? I'm willing to play with the TwEECer to figure out how it functions, and I would rather do my own tuning. I have a hard time trusting anybody with my pride and joy. If someone is going to hurt her, that person should be me. Only got 1 more question, are there very many generic tunes out there to download to get me in the ballpark? Thanks for the help
I recently installed a E303 cam, lifters and timing chain in my 94 gt 5.0l i dont have as many upgrades as you but when i was done the car wouldnt stay running at idle but the E303 cam is such a mild cam you shouldnt have adjust you ECM at all i ended up playing with the IAC (idle air control) motor and i guess just the difference in the new cam caused it to fault i took one off a 93 ford ranger with new IAC it was idleing fine there is no adjustments you can make besides the base timing, its a pretty basic system
If I figure something out I'll post it, but it may take some time. Guess our computers do suck, but the E cam sounds so nasty, gunna have to save my bucks.
I have a 95 gt w/ an e303 cam. Adjusting the throttle blade stop is not the way to fix the idle problem. Ford sells an old tsb kit for 1992 tempo, rangers, taurus, ect... that is a iac bypass. All it is a plate that bolts between the iac valve and throttle body. It has 2 set screws (top and bottom) which allows for extra fine tuning of idle air flow w/o disrupting maf load tables/tps voltages, ect... I installed one on my car and it idles fine w/ stock pcm and tune. oh and its is like 20 dollars.
Well, bad this happened to my stock block, before I could see if I could find a solution to the e-cam issue, so i'm going with a 308ci shortblock and a steeda #19 cam. I've been doing some research and found that no 94-95 guys have had drivability issues with this cam. It is a milder cam, but I want a driver not a race car, so it should do well. The car is almost back together, so we'll see what happens soon.
I was reading your post and you dont mentioned having a MAF calibrated to your 30# injectors.
If you dont have a 30# calibrated MAF thats your problem.
__________________
1994 GT AODE, 3.55, shift kit, BBK H PIPE, K&N, XLerator Performence Mufflers (soon to be Super 44's), MSD(Cap, Rotor, TFI Blaster Coil), and 9mm Ford Racing Spark Plug Wires, Ford Racing B Springs.
First check IAC .Unplug the connector, if idle doesnt change its bad. Second if MAF not calibrated , it will hunt and roll idle for about thirty seconds then die. Third if all checks ok and reset idle exactly as the manual check the bulk connectors on passenger side firewall.Spray contact cleaner on them and blow out. There is a thread to set idle in the forum. I had all these problems and did all this and my car runs fine now.My combo is way more radical and so dont believe that changing the ECU is the cure all, its not.
First check IAC .Unplug the connector, if idle doesnt change its bad. Second if MAF not calibrated , it will hunt and roll idle for about thirty seconds then die. Third if all checks ok and reset idle exactly as the manual check the bulk connectors on passenger side firewall.Spray contact cleaner on them and blow out. There is a thread to set idle in the forum. I had all these problems and did all this and my car runs fine now.My combo is way more radical and so dont believe that changing the ECU is the cure all, its not.
I wish I would have checked back with this thread, before I spent hours researching to figure out what the problem was. Well, the problem is solved. I got the 308ci short block and #19 cam in......
It still ran like crap and had that surging idle. Then, after alot of reseaching, I had an idea what it might be. The PCV was sucking fresh air and the TPS voltage at idle was 1.38v...... Two problems there. So, I went through the idle set procedure, and got the voltage down to 1.08v. Fixed the PCV sucking unmetered air problem and............ it ran prefect for about a minute a little better, but after that minute or so, it developed that same rolling/surging idle and eventually stall, and while it was running it stunk of unburned fuel. So, I installed a set of stock 24lb injectors, I had laying around "unknown condition",and reset the computer's memory and..... bam problem solved. She idles prefect @ 750-800rpm, pulls great. Whats crazy is that when i first got this car it had the 30lb injectors in it and running just fine with the Edelbrock "unported" heads and a GT40 intake...but, anyway, the problems are solved hope this thread can help someone else in the future,even though it was multiple things causing this issue,and Oh yeah, thanks for everybody's help.