Completed Cobra Intake and Ford Racing Valve Covers

Pro Mustang · 01-11-2009

Yes the valve covers are the D302 but I am sure any in this series will fit the same. With the Cobra intake you have about 1/2" of clearance. Keep in mind, I do not know what clearance problems you might have with a stock intake manifold. The location where I drilled and tapped the passenger valve cover for the breather line was not exactly the best place because the Throttlebody sets exactly over this location and I ended up with only a credit card thickness for clearance between the throttlebody and the vent tube connector.

Htwheeler · 02-01-2009

Have you driven the car yet and if so did you notice any difference in power due to the intake swap.

I have the cobra intake for my car and still have not put it on, I am kind of waiting to put a cam in along with the intake. I already have the heads, CAI, MAF, full exhaust, T/B and 1.7 RR on the car.

Pro Mustang · 02-03-2009

Yes I have driven the car

. It runs pretty good! The low end is good and it runs good up top. In the mid range there is a bit of a lag. I assume this has more to do with the 70mm throttlebody than the intake but not sure yet. I have the timing set at the stock 10 degrees to be sure it does not ping but I am planning to play with the timing a bit to see if it does better now at 12 or 14 degrees.

302Feen · 02-04-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pro Mustang

Yes I have driven the car

. It runs pretty good! The low end is good and it runs good up top. In the mid range there is a bit of a lag. I assume this has more to do with the 70mm throttlebody than the intake but not sure yet. I have the timing set at the stock 10 degrees to be sure it does not ping but I am planning to play with the timing a bit to see if it does better now at 12 or 14 degrees.

You shouldn't get any predet if you bump up the timing a little. You might as well try it. The worst that could happen is you take it out and it pings then you just go back and pull the timing down a little more... That might actually help your midrange a little too.

1995GT347 · 02-08-2009

I too had valve cover issues and ended up going with the trick flow valve covers, standard height will cover your roller rockers and you can drill and install their fill tube kit wherever you want (stock location was my choice)
Also for people who want to delete their EGR valves you can do it by just capping the port on your intake and header but you will need a chip burned to match your EGR-less car. otherwise your timing will advance when the computer commands the EGR open and you will get tons of detonation (that and bad head gaskets cost me three pistons and a broken ring) Also if you are running cats you can overheat them without an EGR valve. Hope this helps anybody who is looking at this conversion

Pro Mustang · 02-08-2009

There is not much clearance on the passenger side valve cover. Because I drilled and tapped a fitting into the valve cover for the breather tube and it ended up right under the valve cover, I have about a credit card thickness between the fitting and the throttlebody. Keep in mind that my info is based on this specific set up. With out the fitting I put into the valve cover, I would have about a 1/2" clearance on this set up.

302Feen · 02-26-2009

Pro Mustang, I know you said that your car wasn't running as good as it should when you did your swap, then your computer kinda reprogramed itself a little or something.

But I did a couple of things last night to get my car to run good after my GT40 swap...
I cleaned the IAC, got the TPS set to .97 (that's the closest we could get it to .98-.99, then set the timing to 12*. That fixed my problem!
So you should really try doing that when you get a chance, it should make the car run even better!

Pro Mustang · 02-27-2009

Yes, since the swap, I did a bit more work on it. I did the whole "Solving your idle and power problems" thing. I recommend everyone to do this. After getting my base idle set, TPS Voltage set and the air valve adjusted it idled great and then every time I plugged in the IAC it would screw it up and make it run bad. This told me the IAC was bad. So I changed it. Then when I plugged the connector back into the IAC it made it run bad for a few seconds and then it adjusted until it idled good!!!!

I have not advanced the timing because I have a custom chip from Wes (??Total Performance Solutions) and the timing should be built into the chip. I may play with it a bit when I have time.

Some times I wish there was a switch you could throw that puts the car back to its original power and then switch it back and feel the difference. When you do mods and then more mods and then more mods, you forget what it used to be like.

91MARO95STANG · 03-27-2009

Hey man great work im doing the whole conversion but im stuck with the intake i dont know how to block it can it be welded to cover it up???

Pro Mustang · 03-28-2009

I assume you are talking about blocking the EGR Valve location on the 93 Cobra intake. I just went to Lowes and bought a piece of aluminum strap. Then cut it to length drilled holes in it at the proper locations and diameter and bolted it on with the gasket. I actually, did a lot of grinding to make it the exact size and smoothed the edges so it looks like part of the manifold.

Again I am assuming this is what you are talking about but if this is not correct, give me more info and I will tryn to help you.

Pro Mustang · 09-07-2009

It has been a while since I updated how my car is running with the 70mm Throttle Body and Cobra Intake. To make a long story short, I found out that the custom chip I had in the computer went bad.

That is why it was not running so good. I took the chip out and it solved the problems I was having. The car runs strong and pulls strong in the 4500 rpm range. Sometime in the future I will do a rebuild and get heads/cam/rockers. For now I am very happy with the looks and how it runs!!!!