Completed Cobra Intake and Ford Racing Valve Covers

Pro Mustang · 01-03-2009

I finished the installation of the parts listed in the title. I am posting this to tell what I learned. Keep in mind that what I learned is based on this particular set up and may not apply when using different aftermarket parts than these.

LOWER INTAKE:
No problems except for the fact that the two front bolts broke off and I had to drill and tap one to get it out and the other came out with an easy-out. I used anti-seize on both front bolts and both rear bolts, as they are exposed to the elements. I had to repair and replace some of the wire loom covers because they are all brittle and even the slightest movement breaks them.

UPPER INTAKE:
I built a plate out of aluminum to cover the 93 EGR valve ports and installed the plate with a new gasket. I replaced all the vacume lines going to the underside of the upper intake and to the PVC valve. All new vacume lines make it easier and you are sure there are no cracked line to leave you with a vacume leak.

94-95 ELBOW:
( I USED PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS BECAUSE IT IS POLISHED).
NOTE: The back bolt that holds the throttle plate needs to be cut off about 1/4" or it goes through too far and hits the upper intake and could cause a problem. I am not using the EGR valve on the elbow and I wanted to block it off also, and I found that the hole was drilled just the right size that you can tap it with a 1/2" NPT and put a plug in it. I did this and it worked out cool.

FORD RACING VALVE COVERS:
I had no problems with clearance of any parts on the engine. You have to swing the alternator out of the way while installing but when the install is complete you can just bolt it back into place and it does not hit the valve cover. The main problem with the Ford Racing Valve covers it the oil fill tube and the crankcase vent hose. (I knew this in advance, so I was not surprised). With my set up the throttle body was directly over the fill tube location. It is impossible to put the valve cover with the fill tube on the passenger side!! So, I flipped the valve covers side to side and put the oil fill tube on the driver’s side. Then I had to remove the oil fill tube from the valve cover find a grommet to fit the hole and build my own oil fill tube. I used 3/4" PVC pipe and different fittings to do this. (see pictures) I drilled a hole in the drivers side valve cover and taped the hole for 1/4" NPT and put a low profile 90 degree elbow there with a 3/8" barbed fitting to connect to the air intake for the crankcase ventilation. You also need to build a baffle to put inside that valve cover to keep oil out of this hose.

COLD AIR INTAKE:
C & L Performance
With these mods it changed the location and angle of the throttle body therefore I had to modify my CAI. In this case with the C&L Performance set up, I had to recut the ends of the tube to get the angles right and then weld back aluminum ends on the tube to get it positioned correctly. (see picture)

BBK STRUT TOWER BRACE:
This turned out to give me several problems to resolve.
#1. it hit my throttle bracket, so I had to modify the throttle bracket.
#2. It also hit my throttle body I ended up grinding quite a bit to give it about 1/2" clearance from the throttle body.

ONE MORE NOTE:
I TRIED TO USE A 1/2" SPACER BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER INTAKE. I CAN NOW TELL YOU IT DOES NOT FIT UNDER A STOCK HOOD. IT HITS BEFORE THE HOOD EVEN GET CLOSE TO CLOSING. SO, YOU HAVE TWO OPTIONS; GET A COBRA HOOD OR MODIFY YOUR HOOD BY CUTTING THE INTERIOR SUPPORTS. I DECIDE NOT TO DO EITHER AND TOOK THE 1/2" SPACER OUT

302Feen · 01-04-2009

Awesome post! That is a lot of really good info.

Looks like you take good care of the engine bay.
Have you driven it yet? If so did you notice a difference in power?
Are you running the stock MAF?

You should copy this thread, and put it in the "'94-'95 mods" sticky at the top.

Pro Mustang · 01-04-2009

I have not gotten it out of the garage yet. Still need to set the timing and maybe check the TPS Voltage. I am using the C & L 76mm MAF System. I am not sure how to put this post in the 94-95 Mods section. Maybe Eagle will.

95fiveoh · 01-04-2009

Yeah, great info. The stang is coming along great! Hopefully this is good enough to be made into a THREAD for our 94-95 section.

**RLG34750** · 01-04-2009

Nice job ....

nice documentation.......

**EagleAutosports** · 01-04-2009

Since there's room at the top of the 94-95 section, and that this was totally covered complete with pictures, I'll stick it to the top. Especially with so many 94-95 owners who ask about this very thing, such a write up is what is needed.

Great work.

Pro Mustang · 01-04-2009

Thanks Eagle Autosports, I will check the post now and then to answer any questions.

heavy metal · 01-04-2009

You done a great job man!!

302Feen · 01-05-2009

Are you still running the stock heads or did you switch to the GT40 heads? I know you're going to a Cobra swap so I am curious.
Also, are you running different rockers (1.6 or 1.7's)?
Are those tall valve covers?

cindys_sn95 · 01-05-2009

very nice work pro!!!

Pro Mustang · 01-05-2009

302 Feen; All the internals are stock for now. Some time in the future (when needed) I will build a block and install heads, cam and rockers.

nielsensmn · 01-06-2009

Curious about your header and EGR. I want to eliminate mine, but was wondering if your passenger header had the EGR tube male connector? If so, what did you do to block that?
As far as the EGR itself, what did you do about the electrical hook up and vacuum line? I know making or buying an EGR delete plate for the Cobra upper is easy, so no problem there. I want to get this done because I have a strage putting sound from that area and just think eliminating that whole system would be the best thing to do.
As you know I did the same swap, runs good, but now it's time for a new clutch, so, I have to wait to see how it really runs.

Pro Mustang · 01-06-2009

I think I mentioned this on one of your posts. You can take the tube out between the EGR valve and the headers. Cut the tube in half and reuse the two fittings. Put a penny inside the fitting and the place back on the header or EGR Valve and tighten it down. Perfect fit and as long as they are tight they do not leak. You can leave the vacume hooked up and also the electrical connection. You will get a check engine light once in a while but no big deal. Because I got a custom chip from Wes at Total Performance Solutions and he turned off the egr valve and the smog pump with the chip, I deleted the whole valve. Just capped the vacume line and hid the wires. I have read your previous post and if your leak is not the egr tube then I wonder if it is a header gasket problem.

302Feen · 01-06-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pro Mustang

I have read your previous post and if your leak is not the egr tube then I wonder if it is a header gasket problem.

I was thinking a header leak as well...
Just go through and tighten all your header bolts. To tighten them, start with the two middle bolts and work your way out. Then start your car and let your headers warm up a bit, and tighten the bolts the same way again. After about a weeks worth of driving repeat. Then you shouldn't have to tighten them, at least for a long while.

SN95vert S197GT · 01-11-2009

VERY NICE! I am about to drop in my new motor and have been looking for some VC to to fit. The only thing I was worried about was the TB hitting the passenger side VC. How much clearance did you end up with between the two? I am guessing those are the M-6000-D302.