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hey guys, I've got a 95 svt and since I got it the temperature gauge has not worked. I was hoping it'd be a simple fix with just the sending unit so I finally did it and it didn't fix it. the needle is always sitting on the pin by cold if the ignition is on but for some reason if the ignition is off it will raise a little of the needle. Any one have any ideas?
thanks in advance
no use in fixing the stock gauges. They are inaccurate anyways even when they are working.
Get you a set of AutoMeter gauges (coolant temp, oil pressure, tach). If you can't afford AutoMeter, then go to AutoZone and get some SunPro gauges for now.
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True, I agree, for years I thought my 94 ran cool, then I put in an Autometer gauge and what a completely different reading! But as for the gauge not working, it sounds like there is no power or it is disconnected behind the instrument panel or just a bad unit. Hope this helps!
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If i remember right these cars have two temp sending units one for the guage and one for the computer. If they do then are you sure that you replaced the right one
Ditto, one is the ECT which reads back to the ECM, the other is the temperture sending unit for the gauge, two totally different things. the ECT should be by the Tstat housing, its has a three prong connector on it, the other should be on the drivers side lower intake
the one I replaced was on the driver side front of the intake. I'm just trying to fix it for now so at least I have somewhat of an idea. the car has never run hot on me (that I know of) I just want at least the stock gauge to work. so that way I can tell if its normally at one point then suddenly starts to raise obviously its getting hot and something needs to be done. and if possible I want the interior to be as close to stock as possible
get behind the gauge cluster and ID what wire goes to the temp gauge, then test for continuity from the wire behind the cluster to the sending unit connector. If no continuity, the wire has an open, if you do have continuity, then it lies in the temp gauge. You may also make sure the new sending unit is making a good connection with its connector.
I run the FAILSAFE T-stat from AutoZone. Its like 12 bucks FWIW