Hoping someone out there can help me. I have a 1994 Cobra that has had intermittant starting problems for over a year now. It would work fine for a month, then not start for a few hours, then work the next day. I think I have isolated it to the fuel pump now that it has not run for 3 days now.
So far I have changed the fuel filter and by-passed the inertia switch in the trunk to rule those out. When I turn the key and it will not crank I notice that the fuel pump does not prime at all. I checked the voltage to the pump now it reads 9 volts. Is that normal? I will check when it works again, but I am tired of waiting. Please help, this is driving me crazy and I need to get to work or atleast to the shop. I have a code reader and it showed problems with the fuel pump system, but I do not remember the exact codes right now.
Could you please clarify what is going on with you car.
You say it wont crank? Thats a starter/ignition problem.
Have you ruled out your distributer? Hall effect sensor has a way of doing something like this.
If you are one hundred percent sure that you are not hearing the pump then get the tank down and see if that fixes anything. at all atleast you have a new fuel pump which is always a good thing. While you have the tank out replace your fillerneck grommet. Get the 255 pump.
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1994 GT AODE, 3.55, shift kit, BBK H PIPE, K&N, XLerator Performence Mufflers (soon to be Super 44's), MSD(Cap, Rotor, TFI Blaster Coil), and 9mm Ford Racing Spark Plug Wires, Ford Racing B Springs.
The starter is turning and the motor rolls over, but never catches. I am sure that the fuel pump does not make a sound only when it won't start. What is special about the 255 and what brand is it? Since I am getting voltage to the pump, I think that is probably it, but I want to make sure before I drop the tank. It is half full of gas.
The starter is turning and the motor rolls over, but never catches. I am sure that the fuel pump does not make a sound only when it won't start. What is special about the 255 and what brand is it? Since I am getting voltage to the pump, I think that is probably it, but I want to make sure before I drop the tank. It is half full of gas.
The reference to the 255 is the pump rating in liters per hour. Most will use the Walbro GSS340 255 lph pump. Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail before dropping the tank. It should be about 38 psi +/- 2 psi. I would think though that the voltage to the pump should be 12+ volts.
CobraCollector, this is actually a very common problem with the 94-95 Mustang V8. You should definitely search and look at the threads discussing fuel pump issues. There is a lot of information around to help you figure this one out.
My advice to you is to test and check everything else before you spend your time replacing the fuel pump. I myself have had this problem and I believe my car still has the problem it just hasn't reoccurred yet.
The sensor in the Distributor is a lot of times the problem so you may want to pull a spark plug and test to see if the plug is firing when you try to start the car.
The CCRM, Constant Control Relay Module, contains your fuel pump relay but since you get 9v to the pump it is probably not your problem.
The PCM, Powertrain Control Module, sometimes has issues with a bad ground and will not run the fuel pump and fire the plugs. I have no idea how to test for this scenario. Search the forum and you may find someone has explained it.
My car came back to life after I replaced the sensor in the Distributor. Unfortunately I already spent a ton of time replacing the fuel pump.
Here is where I am at now. I checked out the ignition switch under the steering wheel and it is fully operational. I also have checked the CCRM out completely. Once I cleaned the pins and the connectors in the CCRM it fired up over and over. What seemed to get me over the hump was to just clean the 10 amp maxi fuse. It had some slight corrosion on it. Care worked great for one day and then it rained and it would not crank a couple of times. Since then it has run great and I went ahead an replaced the fuse instead of just cleaning it up. I doubt it is the pump at all, because when it gets the right voltage it works great! Would a sensor in the distributor be a problem with these characteristics. I do think it is electrical in nature b/c it seems to occur more often when the humidity is high.
The pump should run for 2-3 seconds when you turn the ignition on then stop. It doesn't start running again until it sees a crank/distributor signal. Are you sure you're losing fuel to the system? You could have a bad distributor pickup.
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95 GT Coupe, FRP B spring kit, Bullitt Wheels, Hurst short throw shifter, SVO Cobra Intake, X303 Aluminum Heads, Cobra Roller Rockers 1.7, Equal Length Ceramic Headers, BBK H Pipe, FRP Low Restriction Exhaust, Bullitt Calipers and 13" rotors. American Racing CAI.
1994 Mustang Fuel Pump Problems 
and I need to get to work or atleast to the shop. I have a code reader and it showed problems with the fuel pump system, but I do not remember the exact codes right now.
