I'm having continued drivability problems with my car. Same as before, except it's gradually getting worse. It used to stuuter below 2000 any time you leaned into the throttle, but now, it missesd ANY time you lean in the throttle at any RPM. I've never seen black smoke come from the exhaust, but I'm getting black dust on the back of my car, especially the tailpipes (running rich?)
I checked the codes, KOEO, and KOER, and the only one I got was 116, coolant temp lower/higher than expected. I checked the codes with the engine running, but I had only started it and revved it at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes like the book suggested to bring the O2 sensors up to temp. The coolan was still cold, so I think that's what this was. Otherwise, no codes.
So, now I'm getting serious about just replacing everything. It still acts like ignition, but I the only thing left are plug wires, coil, and distributor/TFI module. DO distributors them selves cause this type of engine miss problem? What about the TFI module? I know on the older foxes, they would go bad and the care simply wouldn't run. Can the TFI cause a miss? I'll probably do the plug wires next.
Before those come, however, I decided to replace any vacuum line that looked funny. I've found one that goes to the Evap cannister inside the fender that while not showing a leak, is pretty degraded, so I'm replacing it. I also have another that comes from the evap and goes towards the front of the engine compartment, that looks uncapped? Anyone know where that goes?
Finally, there are two throttle cables that attach to the Throttle Body. One I know is for the throttle pedal, but there was another that I noticed was disconnected. Is this for the cruise control? It used to work, but I haven't used it in awhile. I reconnected it, but haven't tried driving the car yet as I need to replace the vacuum lines still. Could this cause a drivability problem?
just a thought. have you tryed fuel injector cleaner in the gas? After a few miles, take it out the intersate and blow it out. used to work. but im 66 female.
what i would do if i were u is replace the ect aka engine coolant temperture sensor.. its the sensor thats located in the black pipe that attaches to the small hoses that come off your water pump and goes to the firewall with 2 more black hoses..thats sensor tells the computer the engine coolant temp and if its reading wrong its dumping too much fuel and makes the fan stay on high spped so your coolant cant heat up thus your engine wont heat up and the computer is dumping too much or too less fuel and also make sure your thermostat isnt stuck..does the heater blow hot air when turned on..
i say this cuz mine had same code and it was the ect sensor..its like 25 at local parts store and takes all of 5 mins to change just let engine temp cool down really good nd let pressure off the system before you take out sensor..
Yeah, I'll probably try it, but I don't know if that will help. It pings under load at higher rpm, so that tells me the computer is pulling fuel. I'm gonna try the fuel filter too.
uhh, wouldn't it be easier just to take it to a good Ford dealer or mechanic rather than playing "miss and hit"?, sometimes you just have to ask for professional help.
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"Goose, Hollywood's fine, I want Viper"
1995 Mustang GT Cnv 347(427 stroker being built!) almost done!
1996 Cobra with Kenne Bell 2.1 Supercharger and every other conceivable part you can bolt on it...650hp upgrade in the works
2003 Infiniti M45 V8 340 hp...a methadone treatment for reformed Mustang drivers
Wouldn't hurt to do tune up type stuff if it needed it anyway. So how long has it been? A lot of things could do that.
A bad plug, wire or coil would show up more at higher rpm. That would cause a misfire and then the black smoke. Someone could list 10-20 things that could cause your problem.
Clear the codes warm up the engine for like 20min...take a drive, If your ect code comes back it could be the ect or it could be a real problem. Normally the ect would be tested with an oscilloscope and/or dmm before you replace it. Do ya have a Digital Multi Meter?
Disconnect the wires with the engine cold, set to ohms, record your reading, bring the engine and coolant to operating temp and record your reading. In fact you should be able to watch the ohms rise as the engine warms. You could even find the specs on google. Do not use an analog meter and don't check resistance to a sensor while it is still connected to any wires. Don't leave your sensor disconnected and the car running forever because the fan may not kick on.
If you replace something that didn't fix the problem but needed to be replaced then its money well spent. Like plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, vacuum lines, fuel pressure reg., O2 sensors, thermostat, coolant flush even a fuel pump if its got over 100k on it would not be a total waste of money. O2 sensors wear out like a battery, they just get slower and slower. You should even change your brake fluid every several years. Have ya cleaned your maf lately? My fuel reg just went out on me awhile back.
Not sure what them lines went to but with the car running try to see if they pull vacuum, if they do that would cause a problem. Probably not as serious as your talking about though. If you had a vacuum leak and bad fuel pressure reg. that could get ya running lean.
If you check your fuel pressure that will tell you the state of your pump, filters, lines and regulator... could save ya some money.
With the tfi module, a lot of times you can remove it, clean behind it and the mounting surface add some dielectric grease and reinstall it, its just the ground gets corrosion.
If you feel you do not have tools, luck, patience, time and money then try a mechanic but you will need luck and money, maybe patience and time.
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Tremec TKO 500, Spec Stage 1 Clutch & Pressure Plate, Ford clutch cable with MM firewall adj. & quadrant, MSD Cap/Rotor & Wires, Autolite 25's, Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure reg., SLP Loud Mouth 1 cat back, BBK CAI
FRPP C springs, Bilstein shocks and struts, M&M Caster Camber plates, Urethane rack & sway bar bushings, spring isolators.
M&M Stainless Steel braided brake hose, Hawk HPS pads, freshly turned rotors
There are no codes. The only ones I've ever gotten are 157 for the MAF sensor(replaced it), and the one for the coolant temp being higher/lower than expected. I checked it again when the engine was fully warm, and it was gone.
The reason I don't take the car to the dealer is because, in my experience, most techs don't know how to diaganose a problem anymore. If the car isn't throwing a code, they don't know what's wrong with it. I'm afraid of spending $500 at a dealer to fix a problem and still having the same problem. I've seen it many times, in fact, my father-law is dealing with this on his '96 Bronco. So far, I have about $300 into the repair, and the only thing I've bought which really hasn't been needed is a used computer off Ebay. I needed the MAF sensor (car did run smoother with it), I bought a MSD coil for it(upgrade IMO), and replaced all the vacuum lines on it, which were rotted anyway.
I'll replace the fuel filter next (who knows how old it is), and if that doesn't work, I'll rent a fuel pressure tester to see where my pressure is at. If it needs a pump, good, it was old anyway.
The reason I post on this board is, I would hope that as a community, the posters here have experience with Mustang specific problems and the advice received would cut down on the time needed to diagnose and fix problems. I haven't been fortunate enough to get any useful advice yet. People here can't even tell me where a fairly distinct vacuum line goes for christs sake!
A vacuum leak could definitley cause your problem, thry this: Get a can of FLAMABLE carb claener and spray it around all of your vacuum lines, if your car suddenly idles up high you will know that where ever you just sprayed is a leaking line...Replace if found.
I didnt see that you replaced your distributor cap and rotor button, what do they look like? Corrosion? Clean them with sand paper see if that helps.
You can do an ohms test on all of you plug wires to see if any of them have higher readings than the average of the rest...That would be a good indication of a bad wire.
If you are having carbon build up on your bumber and tail pipes then there is a good chance that your plugs are starting to foul which would also cause your symptoms.
Hope some of that helps...
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95" Vert - 302 Stock
4.10 Gears, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Subrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod,
H&R Race Springs, Tokico Illumina Front Struts,
Tokico Illumina Rear Shocks, MM Caster/Camber Plates, Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars, Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors
I replaced the cap/rotor/plugs first thing. It has gotten worse since I did that though, and admittedly, the plugs could be getting fouled now. I haven't cheecked them, but the plugs have only been in the car a month now.
I checked for vacuum leaks at the same time, and found nothing. I did replace the lines, however because a few were rotted even though they didn't show a leak.
Replaced the fuel filter. No change. I need to test the fuel pressure, but my local Autozone doesn't have any to rent or sell. My father-in-law has one, but I haven't picked it up yet. That's next on my list of things to check. Is there any way to check the ICM if I do see fuel pressure problems, to rule that out/confirm a problem as opposed to having a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.
I'm wondering if the fuel pressure regulator is bad since I'm getting the soot. A bad pump wouldn't make the car run rich, it could only starve the engine for fuel. Could a faulty ICM make the fuel pump put out TOO MUCH fuel pressure? Anyway, I have to test the fuel pressure first to see where it's at.
Checked the fuel pressure today. I'm not sure if you're supposed to check it with the vacuum line hooked up or disconnected, so I checked it both ways.
Hooked up, pressure varied between 32-34 at low rpm, but when I raised the rpm, it would drop as low as 30. Seems like as rpm goes up, you'd want more fuel pressure, wouldn't you???
With the vacuum line disconnected and plugged, fuel pressure went up to 42psi and stayed there no matter what.
What's it supposed to do? Is it working? I remember reading somewhere fuel pressure should be somewhere around 38psi, but I don't know if that was with the vacuum line hooked up, disconnected, or what? Is that even right?
Drivability problems continue 
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