My 94 GT has been overheating and i cant figure out what it is. I checked and found out the water pump was bad so i figured that would fix it. Got the new one on and its still doing the same thing. If im driving it stays about the N on the gauge. As soon as i stop it goes up really fast to the red. I have a new 180 degree thermostat. Heated it up and it is opening. After i put the water pump back in it just seems to keep bubbling out of the overflow. I put new head gaskets on about 8 months ago so it shouldnt be that. The other weird thing is a couple times when my buddy would start the car you could watch the top hose collapse and slowly go back to normal???The car will be hot as hell but the radiator will still be cold? Is the radiator possibly bad? Would that cause all the problems im describing? Its got an electric fan also, it does kick on a little late but it still never cools down even after the fan comes on.
Ok from the top. Get the front end of the car up (a hill or jackstands). It is not as easy as some think to completely rid a system of air. I would replace you radiator cap for starters since you didn't mention that and it's cheap to do. Leave the car running with the cap off until it reaches operating temp. Turn the heat on full to open the heater core and add water as needed. Squeezing and releasing the top hose will "burp" the system as well. May wanna flush the radiator first if you don't think changing the water pump flushed it enough.
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Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
hello guys, im having the same problem with my car i own a 95gt i replace the water pump an a new thermostat, and still the gage keeps raising and if i put the a/c full blast heats up faster, so im thinking of replacing the temperature switch let me konow what you guys think it could be the problem. thank you an havea wonderful day.
You can also start the car cold, with the coolant fill cap off, run the car untill it heats up and the thermostat opens (as soon as that happens the coolant level will drop) have someone hold the RPM's at about 2500-3000 and fill it completely up... Then put the cap on and it should "burp" itself.
Hope that helps!
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95" Vert - 302 Stock
4.10 Gears, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Subrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod,
H&R Race Springs, Tokico Illumina Front Struts,
Tokico Illumina Rear Shocks, MM Caster/Camber Plates, Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars, Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors
hello guys, im having the same problem with my car i own a 95gt i replace the water pump an a new thermostat, and still the gage keeps raising and if i put the a/c full blast heats up faster, so im thinking of replacing the temperature switch let me konow what you guys think it could be the problem. thank you an havea wonderful day.
You didn't mention electric fans. If you have the original fan, I would suspect your fan clutch. The reason I suspect this is because you say it heats faster when the air is turned on. The factory fan when working properly always kept these cars cool. Post as to how to check the fan clutch. Been so long that I can't remember how plus I think I'm getting old timer's disease.
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Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
The fan would have nothing to do with the hose collapsing on start up.
Also now that I think more, you should not have any bubbles in your coolant, if you do then you either have a blown head gasket, cracke cylinder wall or a cracked head. These are the only ways that "pressurized air" would enter your system.
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95" Vert - 302 Stock
4.10 Gears, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Subrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod,
H&R Race Springs, Tokico Illumina Front Struts,
Tokico Illumina Rear Shocks, MM Caster/Camber Plates, Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars, Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors
The fan would have nothing to do with the hose collapsing on start up.
Also now that I think more, you should not have any bubbles in your coolant, if you do then you either have a blown head gasket, cracke cylinder wall or a cracked head. These are the only ways that "pressurized air" would enter your system.
if it was a cracked head or head gasket wouldnt i see either the coolant being milky or the oil looking different? Both of them look fine? No smoke from the car either. I forgot to mention i do have a new radiator cap as well. I did let the car run for a while with the cap off to try and burp itself. When i had the cap on and started to take it off i could see bubbles come straight up out of the overflow every time. Does this mean it just still has air in the system and i need to keep burping it some more? How long should it take? its hot before i can even get it to stop burping itself. Shouldnt the radiator also be getting hot like i mentioned? It stays ice cold almost the entire time??
if it was a cracked head or head gasket wouldnt i see either the coolant being milky or the oil looking different? Both of them look fine? No smoke from the car either. I forgot to mention i do have a new radiator cap as well. I did let the car run for a while with the cap off to try and burp itself. When i had the cap on and started to take it off i could see bubbles come straight up out of the overflow every time. Does this mean it just still has air in the system and i need to keep burping it some more? How long should it take? its hot before i can even get it to stop burping itself. Shouldnt the radiator also be getting hot like i mentioned? It stays ice cold almost the entire time??
If the leak is small it is possible to not see malted milkshake oil. The key is to get that heater core full. I'm not hearing you say you turned it on full blast (heat) and rev the engine up to say...2500 and hold it there as you add coolant. The purging process is not as easy as it seems. If you feel you have given it your best shot I guess I would pull that radiator and look for a clog. Not to hurt your feelings but just looking at all angles, could the thermostat be upside down?
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Your typical Terminator with all the usual mods Ford meant for you to do right after you left the showroom.
That was my next ques! If none of these are the problem you could have a stopped passage in the radiator causing a portion or the radiator to be unusable, have it pressure tested.
I still don't get where the bubbles would be coming from unless the system is not able to purge due to the obstruction in the radiator.
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95" Vert - 302 Stock
4.10 Gears, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Subrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod,
H&R Race Springs, Tokico Illumina Front Struts,
Tokico Illumina Rear Shocks, MM Caster/Camber Plates, Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars, Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors
You didnt use any stop leak before you had the head gasket replaced did you?
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95" Vert - 302 Stock
4.10 Gears, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM Subrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar with Aluminum Rod,
H&R Race Springs, Tokico Illumina Front Struts,
Tokico Illumina Rear Shocks, MM Caster/Camber Plates, Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars, Cross Drilled Slotted Rotors
ok just got in from working on the car. Glad someone mentioned turning the heat to full blast and holding it at 2500 rpm. Did that and burped it. Everytime the level went down i filled it back up. Took a while but after about 4 gallons of burping it she stays cool! I ran it afterwards for about 30 minutes and it stayed between the O and the R of NORMAL. Thanks for the help.
1994 Mustang GT overheating.... 
. Victim number 1 has electric fans so fan clutch isn't an issue.
