is there a problem using that low of a temp?192 is just too high for circulation imo..180 is better but im tryin to keep my trany fluid cool w/the stall and shift kit.......next is the switch for the fan ,,tap into the purple/grn stripe wire next to the radiator harness and run a ground switch...but.........
ever since i changed the thermostat i been having start up problems and stall problems at start up only....dont know if its a coincidence or related????any info anyone?
You can use a 160 but it is like almost running without a TSTat, better use the 180. Using no TStat or a 160 could create hotposts due to cavitation and air finding its way into coolant at the block side. TStats increase the pressure inside the BLOCK and that reduces the coolant boiling point. 180 is fine.
1. Check that the TSTAT points into the right direction of flow.
2. Check for vacuum leaks, could have disconnected a hose when you did the install.
Although there may be some performance gains by switching to a 160-degree thermostat, the experts recommend against it.
One reason is that the colder engine oil has a harder time boiling off moisture.
Another reason is that engine wear increases as temperature decreases. I have heard that engine wear at 160 is twice that of 180.
And of course, gas mileage might suffer. As your engine loafs down the highway at 2000 RPM, that 160-degree water jacket is sucking heat out of the cylinders. And heat equals pressure.
Although there may be some performance gains by switching to a 160-degree thermostat, the experts recommend against it.
One reason is that the colder engine oil has a harder time boiling off moisture.
Another reason is that engine wear increases as temperature decreases. I have heard that engine wear at 160 is twice that of 180.
And of course, gas mileage might suffer. As your engine loafs down the highway at 2000 RPM, that 160-degree water jacket is sucking heat out of the cylinders. And heat equals pressure.
I have one in my stock 5.0L (SN95) with a Fluidyne Aluminum race radiator. I barely break into the N in N O R M A L. Spoke with the guys from Downs ford. They typically recommend 180 for my application. If you are planning a similar setup you should probably go with 180. You still get the benefit of a colder running engine. I know guys who say they have been running 160 for years, but from a majority standpoint, 180 seems to be the winner. When I eventually change my water pump, I may bump the thermo up to 180, but I am not sure yet. I want to see how it runs in the summer heat first.
If you are worried about your transmission why not run an external trans cooler inline to boost cooling. Then you can run the 180* and not worry about it. Its like a little separate radiator just for the transmission, it can even be mounted up near the radiator for the best airflow. Good luck! :thumbup
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
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yeah....get a tranny cooler...dont run the motor too cool just to keep the tranny temp down. i run a b&m super cooler and a auto meter tranny gauge and with my 2600 stall converter in the summer its usualy in the 160-170 degree rang and thats the temp in the pan not the lines!!
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
whats wrong w/a 160*thermostat?95 
