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1994-1995 5.0 Mustang SN95 Tech Forum

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Unread 05-28-2012   #1 (permalink)
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Default A/C Only blowing out of defrost?

Whats up AFM, I'm a newer mustang owner I have a '95 gt. The A/C only works on the MAX AC setting and only blows out of my defrost... Anyone know what could be causing this?
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Unread 05-28-2012   #2 (permalink)
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When you set it to "vent", do you get air blowing out the dash? If not, sometimes the linkage that operates the opening and closing of the vents will get hung up. Could be just alot of dust and dirt on them. Try to get behind the dash and follow the connections from the directional dial to the air ducts.
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Unread 05-28-2012   #3 (permalink)
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Most likely you have a broken vacuum line or one has come off at a connection. Vacuum is what the controller on the dash routes to the various controls that route the air.

Make sure that the vacuum canister is connected. That is under the hood. Black globe about the size of a grapefruit.

Next check under the dash. You might need to disassemble various trim pieces to get to it.

There is also a resistor inside of the duct work that can burn out.

Someone a little more familiar with your year Mustang will chime in shortly any time now...
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Unread 05-28-2012   #4 (permalink)
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It sounds like you have two issues. One being its not switching from defrost to vent. Second it is only blowing on high speed. I can help with the defrost issue and i will try with the fan issue. Maybe someone else that has faced the fan only on high issue can better help you with the second issue.

My 95 gt would only blow out the defrost vent. With mine it was a vaccum leak. Under you hood on the passenger side of the car there is a vaccum line that passes through the fire wall from the pasenger compartment in to the engine bay. It routes along the firewall towards the drivers side. It plugs into a black plastic vaccum terminal (for lack of a better name) that is mounted on the drivers side fenderwell right behind the strut tower and above the brake booster. Mine had simply gotten brittle and had a small crack in it. I replaced this vaccum line and it now switches from vent to defrost.

Switching from defrost, to vent, to floor is controlled by this vaccum line. As far as it only blowing on high that is controlled electricly via a switch. Im not sure on this but on many cars the fan has a series of resisters that (these are mounted in side the fan motor housing) controll the speed of the fan via the switch sometimes the resisters will burn out and only high speed works. Most people just replace the fan motor. My car didnt have a issue with fan speed just the vent not switching. i can almost promise you that the vaccum line is the problem with your vent not switching. I hope this helps.
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Unread 05-29-2012   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot!! It was just the vaccum line! Haven't had a chance to check the resistors but I will this week.
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Unread 07-27-2012   #6 (permalink)
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Default For Future Reference

I know this is an older thread, but someone will stumble across this like I did. While it is true that a series of vacuum lines control the mixture and temperature, the fan speed is actually electric controlled. In most cases, a plug and play style resister can be found under the glove box. It is easily visible, and bolts right with two tiny 8mm (i think) bolts. I took less than five minutes to take my old one out and swap in the new one. The is nothing to remove in order to access it. It simply sits right there in the duct work. The resistor module is actually cooled by the airflow in the duct work because it gets pretty hot. When running the blower on low speeds, the resistor actually burns out partially, after some time. I bought a replacement Borg Warner module at Advanced Auto btw, and it was only 10-15 bucks.
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Unread 07-28-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PuneyPony View Post
I know this is an older thread, but someone will stumble across this like I did. While it is true that a series of vacuum lines control the mixture and temperature, the fan speed is actually electric controlled. In most cases, a plug and play style resister can be found under the glove box. It is easily visible, and bolts right with two tiny 8mm (i think) bolts. I took less than five minutes to take my old one out and swap in the new one. The is nothing to remove in order to access it. It simply sits right there in the duct work. The resistor module is actually cooled by the airflow in the duct work because it gets pretty hot. When running the blower on low speeds, the resistor actually burns out partially, after some time. I bought a replacement Borg Warner module at Advanced Auto btw, and it was only 10-15 bucks.
+1 on that response
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Unread 07-30-2012   #8 (permalink)
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my car dose the same thing only blows out of the defroster havent dun a vaccum test on it but i did change the line that gose thru the fire wall an it still dosent work think the tree could be cracked somewere ?
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Unread 08-31-2012   #9 (permalink)
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For those who do not know and reference this thread in the future, vacuum is what controls the airflow mixture settings for the air conditioner/heater and is totally independent of the fan speed control. Focusing on the problem at hand, the tree is tough and chances are it is not cracked. However there is a problematic, black vacuum line that runs from the driver side all the way across to the passenger side along the firewall and then into the passenger firewall. This is the only vacuum line that usually causes problems right out of nowhere. It becomes brittle and almost "dry-rot" due to engine heat and age. Sometimes it could be fine, but simply became detached simply by bumping into it while working around it. I am willing to bet your leak is right at the fitting coming off of the main tree. If not there, follow your way down the line checking for breakage or cracks. They are usually obvious. Once you find it, you can cut bad parts off of the bad line and replace whatever connectors you need. Reattach a newly re-cut ends back into the tree with new connectors of the correct size. If the crack is in the middle of the line, cut the pab parts off of the line and insert a bridge connector of the correct size to fill the gap. Be careful not to cut away too much of the line, other wise you will be replacing that whole vacuum line. Still, replacing the whole vacuum line is one of the simplest things to do on that car. You can find a pack of assorted vacuum line fittings of different types and sizes made by Dorman (Makers of HELP!) in almost every auto parts store.
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Unread 08-31-2012   #10 (permalink)
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386Stang - Have you checked the main vacuum tree for cracking? Have you been working near that area prior to your symptoms? I would check any hoses between the tree and the motor.
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Unread 08-31-2012   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 386 stang View Post
my car dose the same thing only blows out of the defroster havent dun a vaccum test on it but i did change the line that gose thru the fire wall an it still dosent work think the tree could be cracked somewere ?
Hey Buddy, I just thought of this. Even though you cant control your mixture settings (e.g. you are stuck on defrost), can you adjust the temperature from hot to cold? If there was absolutely NO presence of vacuum, you would not be able to control the temperature either. If you can control the temp the issue might be narrowed down to lines or connectors under the dash or the control unit itself. This brings to mind the time I replaced the same vacuum line you are doing. My temp worked, but mixture did not. The culprit was that I had reconnected the same vacuum line you are replacing the wrong way into the vacuum reservoir behind the glove box. The vacuum line I was working on was confused with another line on the unit the fell off while I was working on it. I had the lines reversed. When I went back in and corrected this, all was good and everything functional. You can actually feel for live a/c vacuum here as well and should narrow things down a bit.
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Unread 09-01-2012   #12 (permalink)
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I was going to suggest taking a look at the vacuum reservoir behind the glove box. I've seen the nipple on those get broken off as well.
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Unread 09-01-2012   #13 (permalink)
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Yes I have checked for cracks nothing that I can see an its been like that since Ive had the car
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Unread 09-11-2012   #14 (permalink)
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i have a 95 gt. there is a small vacuum hose made of plastic it is smaller than a pencil running from a tree on the drivers side that has four lines and the small one is the third one down. mine broke right at the tree. when this happens the car goes into default mode and blows out the defrost. sucks. i pull the rubber connector off the tree and got the lil brok piece out and just stuck new end in and it worked. hope its as easy as that for u but if not ford place def can fix it. it took me like 15 mins though
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Unread 04-19-2014   #15 (permalink)
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Pardon me digging up this ancient thread, but I found it in a search...

I'm having this same problem and traced it down to the vac line is broken off right at the firewall. I cant get any slack to put a fitting on. So I guess I need to replace it. But I can't find a how-to anywhere. Can anyone tell me how this is done? Behind the glove box or must the whole dash come out?
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