Check Engine codes 172, 136 been trying to solve!!!
I have been trying to help a friend with his 95Vert GT which has been popping up these engine codes I have not been able to solve it even the mechanics at the local Ford dealership seem to have no clue, on how to solve the problem.
To start off the car has Edel. 6037's, w/ a TFS street intake, 70MMTB, stock cam, CAI and ProM Bullet w/24lb inj., and long tubes, and all the usual associated bolton's, it just recently started doing this throwing these codes in the KOER position. I was able to pull these codes with a SnapOn troubleshooter.
Here are the codes it keeps stating
172 EGO Not switching Lean EXH (Bank1)
136 NO EGO SW-(HO2S-1)-Lean Bank2
When I first scanned it, these were the codes, along with a coolant temp sensor out of range which was easily replaced with a new temp sensor, we have gone as far as replacing the car with new 02's cause the original set that he had on there were extended for the LT"s and the way they were wired one of the wires seems to have grounded itself to the header and actually melted it, and also he decide to go with a new IATsensor, and tonite he decide to upgrade the existing 190 fuel pump to a 255 fuel pump along with a new fuel regulator cause he just didn't like the BBK unit that was in their! I was sure this was gonna help the problem because after searching this site and a bunch of other stang sites and online help site these codes were all pointing to a problem with fuel pressure, so that is why we decide to go ahead and replace the pump and regulator. Thinking this should do it, guess what, it's still showing those above said codes, has anyone run into these codes before, and what have they done fix them I have swapped my eec with his to see if that would kill the codes thinking that maybe since of the wires from the 02's had grounded it may have shorted his eec but it's still showing the same codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I'm running out of answers to these check engine codes. Tomorrow I'm gonna pull the injectors and try to clean them out see If one of the injectors could be clogged. I'll let yall know.
Thanks Guys.
when you run long tubes on any year 5.0 especily without cats the o2 sensers are not as hot and are usualy moved back a little, on fox bodies i have a o2 part # that works with the cooler exsaust but it wont work on the 94 95 years. since the gases are cooler the o2s send a wrong message to the computer the only fix i know of is to get 2 o2 bungs and move the o2s ruffly 15 inches from the exsaust valve or about a foot down the header. i saw this on pro-ms web site so id read up on it....it makes sence if you think about it.
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
That is an interesting theory. I am thinking about getting some long tube headers for my 94 gt. does anyone know if the o2 bung is welded in the correct spot or if they even come with them? i will be going to an x-pipe. i wonder if the bung is still welded there
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13.4@106mph (on old 302, no ET's on stroker yet)
'94 GT 347 Stroker, TFS stage 2 cam (.542 lift), AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 30 lb injectors, 77mm Pro-M, Fox Accufab 75mm Throttle Body, 255lph fuel pump, Mac fox style Long Tube headers, Tremec TKO, aluminum driveshaft, 3.73 gears , Flowmaster 2 chamber, chrome Cobra R 17x9's, Steeda radiator, Eibach Sportline springs, Tweecer RT
I have BBK LT's and they come with the O2 sockets at the collectors. BBK sells extensions, which I bought at a cost of $35. They worked out well for me, so I would advise people in a similar situation to do the same. My car runs fine, no codes.
Some added, slightly off topic FYI's on BBK installation, in case someone is interested.
Headers were a real bit** to put in, but I was able to get it done using tall jack stands and some creative thinking. Like removing the engine mount on the passenger side and jacking the motor up, from the trans. This was the only way I could get the passenger side on. Driver side is cake, just move steering wheel arm temporarily and insert. I have no leaks... and I used the BBK gaskets, despite what others have said about them in the forums. They work fine as long as you properly clean the heads with a scraper and wire brush drill tip, then tighten the bolts down like your life depended on it.
Be advised for those venturing down this road. The BBK's are really nice and I enjoy having them alot, but.......the O2 socket in my passenger side header had some weld slag left behind, which I was not very happy with. So much for quality control. I used the old O2 sensor to carefully and very slowly rethread the hole, removing the slag.
Don't throw your old 02's out until you are completely done and the car is running OK. When you are all done drink a beer.
This is probably best practice for any upgrades that you do really.
After I installed my headers/CAI/TB the codes for lean left/right banks came on. Tried an AFPR and cranked FP up to 50psi, no help. So I cleaned the MAF sensor and they went away that baby was filthy from K&N oil.
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95 GT w/ AODE, TransGo shift kit, and trans cooler, SpeedCal, underdrive pulleys, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm TB, digital A/F gauge, electric boost/fuel pressure gauge, 6# Kenne Bell w/ Flowzilla intake, ported GT-40 lower, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber, 2 1/2" Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Chrome Cobra R's. Cobra RR hood, double Saleen wing, billet grill, chrome strut tower brace and radiator hoses.
Check Engine codes 172, 136 been trying to solve!!! 
This was the only way I could get the passenger side on. Driver side is cake, just move steering wheel arm temporarily and insert. I have no leaks... and I used the BBK gaskets, despite what others have said about them in the forums. They work fine as long as you properly clean the heads with a scraper and wire brush drill tip, then tighten the bolts down like your life depended on it. 
So much for quality control. I used the old O2 sensor to carefully and very slowly rethread the hole, removing the slag. 
