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1994-1995 5.0 Mustang SN95 Tech Forum

5.0L Talk | 5.0L Tech | 94-95 Tech | 1979-1993   1994   1995   Upload Pictures | Timeslips | Power Adders | Mustang Tech 


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Unread 01-04-2013   #1 (permalink)
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Default 94 gt starting issues

I have a 94 gt that is pretty much stock, only thing it has is a b303 can and matching springs as well as exhaust. This car doesn't like to start but when I can get it to start it runs strong! It cranks extremely fast, shows no codes except an egr code (egr was deleted and blocked off), I have fuel and spark... I'm not sure why but it does not like to start, just cranks really fast... When it does start I can drive it with no drive ability issues at all but when I turn it off it doesn't want to start back up. It's worse cold than after I drive it. If I do drive it and turn it off once it has reached operating temp 8 out of 10 times it'll fire right back up but if it cools down then it is a pain in the a** to get it running again... Idk what to do. It's almost as if the pip is sending the signal at the wrong time till it starts... Once it starts it runs great! Makes no sense! Thanks for your help! I need this car ASAP to get to work
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Unread 01-05-2013   #2 (permalink)
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I would confirm the fuel pressure (KOEO) with a gauge.
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Unread 01-06-2013   #3 (permalink)
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i would try changing the thermostate senser which tells your pcm what your engine temperature is so it knows hot to ajust the timming and fuel. its on the lower intake manifoil right behing your distributor doesnt cost but 5bucks. goodluck!
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Unread 01-06-2013   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superman79 View Post
i would try changing the thermostate senser which tells your pcm what your engine temperature is so it knows hot to ajust the timming and fuel. its on the lower intake manifoil right behing your distributor doesnt cost but 5bucks. goodluck!
WRONG. That's the dash gauge sending unit. The ECT sensor is in the housing above the T-stat by the heater bypass.
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Unread 01-07-2013   #5 (permalink)
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I appreciate the replies! If you are talking about the coolant temp sensor on the heater rails then I put a new one on there a couple months ago due to none accurate reading on the temp gauge inside the car. It was always trying to tell me the engine was hot with it not even running for a couple minutes. I would turn it off and make sure it didn't overheat but the hoses weren't even warm and the radiator was cool as well. So I replaced it. It doesn't do that anymore... Now this morning I tried to start the car, it was 22 degrees out, and spent 20 min trying to do so. I didn't crank it for the full 20 min but I did let the fuel system prime about 5 times before I even tried to start the car. It cranked but never even tried to start. I would crank for 3 sec and let off for one... Nothing. Sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and reattached the cold air intake. It didn't react to that either. Which made it seem like a spark issue... It has new distributor (reman), plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and coil. So idk. I had to drive my 67 cougar to work instead of the Stang today. Killed the wallet... But when I got home it was 45 degrees and I primed it twice. Car started right up... Sorry this is so long. Trying to be thorough. Thank you guys!
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Unread 01-07-2013   #6 (permalink)
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And also the fuel pressure was a constant 38 koeo...
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Unread 01-07-2013   #7 (permalink)
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I guess my only other thought would be... I guess it could be the pip again since it is intermittent and the distributor is a reman... I know heat affects those but would cold do it as well?
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Unread 01-12-2013   #8 (permalink)
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Can you check the fuel pressure after the regulator? It sounds like the pressure bleeds off after it sets a while. Mine was hard to start in the mornings and a friend said the regulator was on its way out. You may be getting 38 before the regulator but not enough after it. If that doesn't help check the plugs they may have fouled from turning over without starting. If none of that helps take that dizzy back I've got bad remans before.
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Unread 01-12-2013   #9 (permalink)
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Also test the coil with a multimeter, its the only definite way to test it. You should be able to find a walk through online no problem.
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Unread 01-16-2013   #10 (permalink)
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I will definitely try that. Thanks for everything guys!! :smoke: ill report back to you once I can check everything
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Unread 01-16-2013   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harned67 View Post
If you are talking about the coolant temp sensor on the heater rails then I put a new one on there a couple months ago due to none accurate reading on the temp gauge inside the car. It was always trying to tell me the engine was hot with it not even running for a couple minutes. I would turn it off and make sure it didn't overheat but the hoses weren't even warm and the radiator was cool as well. So I replaced it. It doesn't do that anymore...
Are you saying you replaced the ECT or gauge sensor?
You lost me there.

The ECT is in the heater rails, and it has nothing to do at all with your gauge. The one on the driver's side intake water passage is the gauge sender, and it has nothing to do with the ECT previous posters suggest checking.
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Unread 01-16-2013   #12 (permalink)
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Ok, i am sorry. I replaced the ect. Thank you for the clarification. Now that you mention it I replaced that and then shortly after I ended up putting extra grounds on it and made the existing ones better. That is what probably fixed the gauge... But I do have a thought.... The oil pressure sensor on the car is not hooked up because I put a regular brand new fox body oil pan I had in the car and it did not have the sensor on it. I failed to think of this as I built this engine... Now could that possibly keep it from starting when it's cold because it is reading no pressure and the oil is not moving as free. Would explain why when it is warm it would start but not cold. And also that it will start after it has warmed up... Just a thought. Let me know if this can affect starting. Thanks again everyone!
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Unread 01-17-2013   #13 (permalink)
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Cold start issues are unrelated as the PCM does not monitor oil pressure.
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Unread 01-17-2013   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 saddle club View Post
Can you check the fuel pressure after the regulator? It sounds like the pressure bleeds off after it sets a while. Mine was hard to start in the mornings and a friend said the regulator was on its way out. You may be getting 38 before the regulator but not enough after it. If that doesn't help check the plugs they may have fouled from turning over without starting. If none of that helps take that dizzy back I've got bad remans before.
There isn't really an after side of the regulator that means anything. The stock regulator maintains a set pressure in the fuel rails to the injectors by bleeding off excess fuel back to the tank. The line pressure from the pump will be about 90 psi. When the ignition is turned off, the rails should remain pressurized for some time. This is to facilitate a faster restart.
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Unread 01-17-2013   #15 (permalink)
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Ok. My next question would be aside from fuel and spark. What could keep the car from starting but once started it doesn't affect anything or throw codes? Because once it starts it runs strong and gives no problems at all. It's just the initial start up that I can't hardly do.
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