I know some people upgrade their brakes for looks,or they need the extra stopping power because they see alot of track time,but what about the average Joe who has a quick car but doesn't really go to the track etc...just likes having a fast car. are the stock brakes that bad on a 94-98 GT
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1994 GT Mods:
Edelbrock aluminum heads,Cobra extruded Intake,
E-303 cam, ceramic shorties, 70 MM T.B., 24lb inj.,
Pro-M Mass air 80mm, 3:55 gears, Pro5.0-shifter, king cobra clutch, aluminum radiator, pulleys, smoked lights, Full Steeda suspension w/Cobra brake upgrade package......
I have a 1994 Gt (the white one in the picture) and it regularly sees 80-90 mph on the highway (sometimes alot more) and the stock brakes are ok if your doin what you do (haulin a##) on a free way or even highway and give yourself enough room to stop like ALOT of room id say at least 10-20 car lengths if not more, if you can see a car in front of you then you prolly shouldn't punch it too hard. Also, using your compression really helps in an emergency situation, id say go for second (with stock 3.55 gears) at about 60 or so WHEN IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION while slamming on the brakes will bring you to a halt pretty fast.
I know I wouldn't mind a bit more when I get to the end of the track. I think the stockers are OK, but OK at best. You can fade them right out with one high (125+) speed stop (I've done it, scary stuff).
Like kamooo stated, just leave yourself lots of room and use the gears if you have to. I think once the car is into the mid to low 13's I'd upgrade.
one cheap and easy upgrade is for 94-98 cars to use the 99-up calipers they help alot and dont forget the dot 5 fluid. if you think about it good brakes let you go faster.
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
one cheap and easy upgrade is for 94-98 cars to use the 99-up calipers they help alot and dont forget the dot 5 fluid. if you think about it good brakes let you go faster.
I was thinking about doing the 99+ caliper upgrade. They just bolt in don't they? Do you have to change anything else?
yeah man they go right on but i had to grind my spindles alittle but my bud didnt so it depends on the casting .....still no big deal like 20 seconds a side just barly rubbed. they say you need the 99 up lines but iv done 3 swaps and on one we modifided the 94-95 lines but thats a big pain id get the lines.
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
The stockers work fine for normal every day use. They are subject to fade especially if you don't flush the brake system regularly. 10 years ago they were a big improvement over the previous years rear drum setup, but yes there are fairly inexpensive, highy effective upgrades out there.
what about me guys? my new motor and tranny give me that 400+ cobra power (hehehe). i was looking at steeda's cobra brake upgrade (13" brembo rotors, 2 M-2320-C Cobra Calipers, and steel braided front lines) all for $460. My rear brakes are fine right now, and I know my front pads are gone, and the rotors are warped. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone had used these. The FRPP kit comes with a new Master Cylinder... would I need one also? I cant find the one they list anywhere. i guess i am in the same boat as wayne, i have a 94 mustang gt as well because i might need to grind down my spindles some
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
I bought the Bullitt (Cobra spec) front and rear kit for my car and what a difference over stock! Plenty of stopping power now. I just drive my car on nice days and I don't autocross it. Both kits were all Ford parts and went together fairly easily. There was no need for a different master cylinder either. $399 for each kit. Great price considering the cost of any other brake kit that's all inclusive and not just a pad and rotor upgrade.
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1995 Laser Red GT
Kenne Bell Blowzilla (8lbs), GT 40 lower intake, AFR165 heads, Cobra 1.7 rr's, Pro-M 80mm, AFM Power Pipe, CUSTOM TUNE (SCT), 42lb injectors, FRPP pulleys, 70mm throttle body, FRPP 1 5/8" shorties, Bassani cat-x, Bassani after cat, Steeda Tri-ax, Ford 3.55's
Full street oriented Suspension (springs, shocks/struts, uppers/lowers, subframes, diff. cover, Bullitt brakes 13"/11.65", C/C plates, bump steer kit, ......
I bought the Bullitt (Cobra spec) front and rear kit for my car and what a difference over stock! Plenty of stopping power now. I just drive my car on nice days and I don't autocross it. Both kits were all Ford parts and went together fairly easily. There was no need for a different master cylinder either. $399 for each kit. Great price considering the cost of any other brake kit that's all inclusive and not just a pad and rotor upgrade.
where did you get the bullit brake kit from? i have not seen any decent brake kit for $399. what am i missing?
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342, AFR185s, TKO500, TFS2 cam, 30# inj, 75mm TB, 77mm Pro-M, twEECer R/T, Typhoon Upper, tmoss ported lower, 3/8" Spacer, Magnaflow Exhaust w/ Bassani Catted-X and BBK UnEq Shorties, 3.73's, MSD 6AL, FRPP 9mm wires, 200A alt, U/L CA's, Eibach/UPR springs, Koni Yellow Adj Shocks, Bilstien Struts, ZOOM clutch, 94 cobra cluster, 94 export tail lights, 5 gauges, and more (too much to list)
396.7rwhp/450rwtq
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/546774
Eat Rice, Dont Drive It
I don't have a huge need for upgraded brakes, YET, but the other day I did change out my rotors and went with drilled fronts. Autozone had them in stock and they where only $54 each, so it wasn't much more than basic rotors.
WOW, I wish I'd known about the 99-calipers, I had to do mine and just went with stock replacements.
On a side note, I am not a very skilled mechanic, and this brake job was my first...I WILL NEVER PAY TO HAVE PADS AND ROTORS CHANGED AGAIN...it was so EZ, I felt like a jackass for all those years I've been paying hundreds of dollars a pop to have it done, espcially how the shops always act like if the rotor are bad, the world is over and it's a major job!!! MAN, like I said, I have no skill when it come to working on cars and it took me all of 5 minutes longer to do the rotor, since I was alreay doing the pads...SO MUCH TO LEARN, SO MUCH TO LEARN...
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Just another horse lover...
This time around it's a 95GT Conv AODE
one cheap and easy upgrade is for 94-98 cars to use the 99-up calipers they help alot and dont forget the dot 5 fluid. if you think about it good brakes let you go faster.
I disagree with using silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid in an old system, or really at all. Heres why:
Silicone brake fluid will not mix with any moisture (water) that happens to be absorbed into the brake system. Water is more dense that silicone so it will sink to the lowest point in the brake system - the pistons in the calipers (and wheel cylinders for those with drum brakes) - and then cause rust. Glycol fluid (which has corrosion inhibitors) mixes with and disperses moisture, and allows it to be flushed out.
Silicone brake fluid is NOT not compatible with the ABS hydraulic control unit because it doesn't lubricate the ABS pump like glycol based fluid. Moisture can also get trapped within the ABS components - which have very tight clearances - and cause rust. ABS parts are VERY expensive to replace. NO vehicle manufacturer recommends using DOT 5 brake fluid with their ABS system.
You CANNOT mix glycol (DOT 3/4/5.1) brake fluid with silicone brake fluid. The entire brake system must be evacuated and flushed of its glycol fluid before silicone fluid can be inserted. You really shouldn't mix the different glycol fluids with each other either.
Silicone brake fluid compresses slightly under pressure, causing a slight "spongy" brake pedal.
Silicone brake fluid attracts air more that glycol fluid does, which makes bleeding more difficult.
Silicone brake fluid will aerate when pushed through tight orrifices (again, ABS components) and during prolonged vibration.
Silicone brake fluid will vaporize just below its boiling point.
Skip DOT 5 brake fluid and stick with DOT 3. If you simply must have a better brake fluid that DOT 3, go with DOT 4 (remember to completely flush the system) or DOT 5.1. Ford Heavy Duty Brake Fluid is one of the best glycol fluids available.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flintstone
I was thinking about doing the 99+ caliper upgrade. They just bolt in, don't they? Do you have to change anything else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne94mustang
They go right on but I had to grind my spindles a little. My bud didn't, so it depends on the casting
'94 and '95 spindles require some minor grinding. '96+ spindles do not.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimgt95
I bought the Bullitt (Cobra spec) front and rear kit for my car and what a difference over stock! Plenty of stopping power now. I just drive my car on nice days and I don't autocross it. Both kits were all Ford parts and went together fairly easily. There was no need for a different master cylinder either. $399 for each kit. Great price considering the cost of any other brake kit that's all inclusive and not just a pad and rotor upgrade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YoshiBluedevil
Where did you get the bullit brake kit from? I have not seen any decent brake kit for $399. What am I missing?
"Bullitt front 13" brake kit, includes 2 Bullitt brake calipers with mounting brackets, front brake pad set, 2 brake hoses with banjo bolts and washers, and 2 Brembo brake rotors, perfect for 1994-04 Mustangs!, limited quantity, new...view$399.99/kit"
Quote:
Originally Posted by found50
I don't have a huge need for upgraded brakes, YET, but the other day I did change out my rotors and went with drilled fronts.
Drilled rotors are a BAD, BAD idea. That removes thermal capacity, weakens the rotor, and increase exponentially the chance for cracks to form.
So what fluid should I use? Are you saying to use 4, or 5.1?
DOT 3 is more hygroscopic (meaning it has a propensity to draw more water from the atmosphere) than DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. DOT 4 is more expensive than DOT3. DOT 5.1 is even more expensive and is usually very hard to find.
Bottom line: Stick with a DOT 3 brake fluid and flush your system every year. the only thing you're going to gain by going to DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 is a higher dry boiling point. You'll have to be doing quite a few hot laps on a race track to see those temperatures. The hygroscopic issue is a moot point -- you should be flushing brake fluid yearly anyway.
ya dot 5 wont mix with other types thats why you must be shure to flush and clean everything first. and i got rid of my abs it didnt work anyway. the dot 5 does have a more possitive pedel feel to it
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94 gt aode baumannator,pi stallion 3000 stall,transgo,mega bite jrs,3.90 gears,31 spine moser axles,comp exteme,1.7 roller rockers,190 pump,mac cold air,ford 1 5/8 unequals, off road h,flowmaster 2 chamber with stainless tails,msd box,PIH(a9p computer ajustable fan controler),q1a k-member,kenny brown frame ties,driveshaft loop,air pump eliminator kit,bbk 70mm tb,pro-m bullit meter,24#injecters,ported heads&intake,and all the little bolt ons.
who still has stock brakes and why??? 
and the stock brakes are ok if your doin what you do (haulin a##) on a free way or even highway and give yourself enough room to stop like ALOT of room id say at least 10-20 car lengths if not more, if you can see a car in front of you then you prolly shouldn't punch it too hard. Also, using your compression really helps in an emergency situation, id say go for second (with stock 3.55 gears) at about 60 or so WHEN IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION while slamming on the brakes will bring you to a halt pretty fast. 
