My goal is to run high 12's on street tires without any power adders. What basic setup should I be looking at. My ideas for what parts I would need are the these:
Ported stock intake mani's (+15hp over stock, sitting in dad's shop)
AFR 165 heads
E cam (or similar mild cam)
306 rebuild kit (maybe a 331 stroker rebuild kit)
1.6 roller rockers
King Cobra Clutch
275/40/18's (or 275/35/18's not sure yet)
My dad runs 12.85 @ 106 but he's using slicks, with only stock ported heads and ported explorer manifolds and stock block.
What do you think? Is the intake not enough, are the AFR heads too much, would GT40's do it? is a stroker not required?
hechtrod out
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14.81 @ 93 stock 16's. Eibach springs, Flowmaster Catback, pulleys, Unequal GT40P headers, BBK o/r H-pipe, C&L MAS housing less screen, stock airbox w/ K/N and custom ram-air, stock timing, ported MAS sensor hole to .402" dia
That combo you mentioned might be able to do it, but not with regular street tires, maybe with Nittos.
The suspension is KEY if you want to reduce times, also is the weight....dont forget that.
I don't know quite as much as others here, but here goes. if your building a motor, just go ahead and stroke it to a 331, also step up to AFR 185s. I recently read a 5.0 mag that showed on a 306 the 185s make more power than the 165s. I would want to have a little extra power to make sure 12s are in the future. See what I mean? If you spend all this loot and run a best of 13.2, your gonna be pissed. So lets do it right the first time. Keep researching for the perfect combo to achieve your goal. Good Luck!! :thumbup
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DHG #01434 Bullitt - full JLT intake, MGW shifter, Accel coils (I wish I had 4.10s, o/r H, tune)
Black 89 LX(the drag car) best 8.75 at 80 mph in the 1/8
97 Mountaineer V8 AWD
Good luck with the 12's on street tires, it can be done but I'm not sure what it takes on a N/A setup. I ran a best of 13.91 with a stock motor and stock air intake, shorty headers, h-pipe, flowmasters, 3.73 gears, U/D pullys. I recently added a GT-40 intake and C&L 76mm air intake system and a Cold Fusion nitrous kit and ran a 12.53 at 112.5 mph on my street tires, my 60ft was 1.984, and a friend of mine is running 12.30's on street tires, so the tires won't keep you from getting your 12's. I'm not saying street tires are as good as drag radials or slicks but alot of people think you can't run good times on street tires, I'm going to see just how quick I can run on street tires just for the heck of it. I know you're not wanting to use a power adder but maybe my setup will give you an idea of how much power it takes to do it so you can keep that in mind building your engine. Hope this is of some help to you.
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TODDS95SN95 Best 1/4 mile 11.997 at 115.69mph on used BFG drag radials!
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95 red gt 5spd,3.73frpp,h-pipe,2.5flowmasters,hurst billet+,msd coil,frpp 9mm wires,mac unequal shorties,weld pro stars,u/d pulleys,bbk 225lph fuel pump,autometer sh/lite,lakewood t/a lift bars,Spec stg 1 clutch,steeda cable/quadrant,GT-40 intake,C&L 76mm maf w/true flow pipe,NOS wet nitrous kit(125 shot),T56 tranny.
I'm not totally decided on my mod route. Mostly b/c I don't have much money to play with right now, so I'm trying to get ideas on what it takes to be in the high 12's. I figured I'd start by looking into the N/A route. My dad got to 12.85 in his '94 with all the bolt-ons, ported heads and ported explorer manifold with 1.7 rr's and 3.90's on 8.5" used slick. He only has about 290 engine HP (250whp on dyno). But, the slicks are probably worth .5 to .7 seconds in the 1/4. So, it probably takes at least 300whp to get to the 12's on good street tires. 325whp would probably be fairly secure in getting there, but that's about 380 engine HP. N/A I'm thinking that's alu heads, good more than stock ported intake manifolds and a cam of somekind, with a good balanced 306 with at least 9.5 CR.
I have a Kenne Bell article from there website that matches a '94/95 Cobra with boltons vs there blower setup. The cobra with GT40 heads ported and milled, ported intake, TB, pullies, chip, full exhaust, it made 279whp wiht tuning and cost $1000 more. For the price, a blower will get you more power. I really like the Kenne Bell 1.5L blower. There site says it would take my '94 GT to 275whp with 6psi on a stock GT. Adding my headers, h pipe, catback, pullies, ram-air, that should get me right up to 300 whp if not more with the appropriate tuning.
hechtrod out
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14.81 @ 93 stock 16's. Eibach springs, Flowmaster Catback, pulleys, Unequal GT40P headers, BBK o/r H-pipe, C&L MAS housing less screen, stock airbox w/ K/N and custom ram-air, stock timing, ported MAS sensor hole to .402" dia
I'm not totally decided on my mod route. Mostly b/c I don't have much money to play with right now, so I'm trying to get ideas on what it takes to be in the high 12's.N/A I'm thinking that's alu heads, good more than stock ported intake manifolds and a cam of somekind, with a good balanced 306 with at least 9.5 CR.
If you only want about 350-400 crank hp then go with a stroker,they also give nice torque because of the longer stroke and torque is very nice in the 1/4 mile. The gains with the 306 are so little you wont notice it so i'd advise the 331ci (I agree with Dollarbill on that 1) because it's a very street friendly kit and you can get them for cheap and with your goals you can get the nodular crank which is cheaper than the Fordged and will handle 400 hp with no problem. And i'd look at 8.5:1-9:1 CR for money saveing lower grade gas, and with the lower CR if you some time down the road want to do a power adder you'll be set for being able to handle more boost or a bigger shot of N2O and still being in the 94 Octane range.
You could prolly get away with GT40 Heads and Cobra/GT40 intake, but to make sure you hit your goals i'd get Edelbrock RPM Heads, and Performer 5.0 EFI Intake with a Letter (FMS) cam i'd go with the B-cam. Get a nice ignition......like MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 Coil, Billut Distributor and wires. With all this yor looking 3000-3500 shipped and BRAND SPANKING NEW!! Now if money is an issue and your dead set on N/A you can easily find these parts used (if you don't care) on Ebay or classifieds on such sites as AFM.com, Corral.net, Stang.net, or if a local dragway happins to have an online classified section (i know mine does ), you could prolly get all that for under 2000 going used.
Hopes this helps you with your build and good luck
Peace Out
"Drew"
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1994 Black w/ Dual Gold Racing Stripes 5.0 5spd
GT-40 Iron heads, Explorer Intake, Trickflow Stg1 cam,TwEECer R/T, K&N / Removed Scilencer, FRPP 3.73:1, BBK O/R X-pipe, Custom Catback w/ Flowtech Warlock mufflers
Sofar: 14.59 @ 95.13mph
Soon to come: Hoosier 27x10 15 slicks on 15x10 Cragars, DS loop
*And the race to the 8/9 sec mark (street legal & daily driver)...paycheck allowing*
[quote=hechtrod]I'm not totally decided on my mod route. Mostly b/c I don't have much money to play with right now, so I'm trying to get ideas on what it takes to be in the high 12's.
If money is an issue right now and you can't wait to run 12's get a nitrous kit. That was why I ended up with nitrous, and I must say I'm very pleased. I bought a cold fusion wet kit for $459.00 and running 12.5's with the street tires on a 125 shot. If you go N20 be sure to get a wet kit for your SN95 because the MAF system on our cars isn't as good as the 96 and newer stangs, wet kits don't cost as much as engines.
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TODDS95SN95 Best 1/4 mile 11.997 at 115.69mph on used BFG drag radials!
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95 red gt 5spd,3.73frpp,h-pipe,2.5flowmasters,hurst billet+,msd coil,frpp 9mm wires,mac unequal shorties,weld pro stars,u/d pulleys,bbk 225lph fuel pump,autometer sh/lite,lakewood t/a lift bars,Spec stg 1 clutch,steeda cable/quadrant,GT-40 intake,C&L 76mm maf w/true flow pipe,NOS wet nitrous kit(125 shot),T56 tranny.
That is true about the suspension comment. The right parts can get you a few tenths with better traction. Good point. why does everything have to cost money!
hechtrod out
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14.81 @ 93 stock 16's. Eibach springs, Flowmaster Catback, pulleys, Unequal GT40P headers, BBK o/r H-pipe, C&L MAS housing less screen, stock airbox w/ K/N and custom ram-air, stock timing, ported MAS sensor hole to .402" dia